rotors? or what

 

Rotors...Unless it's the bearings or balljoints. Just kidding it's the rotors.

 

you know where to get some slotted/cross-drilled, thatll make my braking better like i know if you get em for an ex or somethin it supposedly increases your braking power. where do i get these/ for what car/ and wheres the cheapest to get em.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by efyou &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you know where to get some slotted/cross-drilled, thatll make my braking better like i know if you get em for an ex or somethin it supposedly increases your braking power. where do i get these/ for what car/ and wheres the cheapest to get em.</TD></TR></TABLE>

First, slots & X-drilled don't really do anything but look cool. The holes actually weaken the rotor & make them more prone to cracking. It's something that was originally developed for poor brake pad compounds that cause gas buildup on the surface. That's not really a problem nowadays. Slots are okay to help keep the pads clean, but they don't do anything for performance and you will never notice ANY difference. They also cost about 4 times as much as top quality OEM "blank" rotors.

Also, you need to do some serious research on brake swaps before you start buying parts. You cannot just change to larger EX rotors without replacing EVERYTHING else.

 

its not JUST the rotors.

you need to examine the tie rods, balljoints and most importantly the steering rack bushing.

its a bit of a chicken/egg thing. loose suspension parts cause the rotors to "warp" quicker. warped rotors cause the suspension to become looser.

replacing just the rotors doesnt fix the whole problem. when i replaced my steering rack bushing ONLY, the effect of the warped rotor was simply a mild pulsing felt through the steering wheel. not even close to a "shake".

and dont waste your money on bling rotors. its not going to help your braking. go ahead and do it if you like the looks.

 

Tyson knows his stuff <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not JUST the rotors.

you need to examine the tie rods, balljoints and most importantly the steering rack bushing.

its a bit of a chicken/egg thing. loose suspension parts cause the rotors to "warp" quicker. warped rotors cause the suspension to become looser.

replacing just the rotors doesnt fix the whole problem. when i replaced my steering rack bushing ONLY, the effect of the warped rotor was simply a mild pulsing felt through the steering wheel. not even close to a "shake".

and dont waste your money on bling rotors. its not going to help your braking. go ahead and do it if you like the looks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

k...ill look at it...cuz i put new rotors/pads on kinda recently...last summer or something, and i remember them always doing that as soon as i put em on.

 

yeah, pretty obvious then its not really the rotors fault then.

 

I was under the impression that brake pads still had the gas that builds up, where did you read that the newer pads don't have the gas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRay13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was under the impression that brake pads still had the gas that builds up, where did you read that the newer pads don't have the gas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

its pretty common knowledge about the old asbestos pads that are now illegal to produce.

 

could it jus be the tie rod bushings? where is this rack bushing at, sounds like its a pain to get to

 

yeah it is a bitch toget to. but its cheap. and very worth it, and likely your problem. it will make your car feel so much better to drive over bumps.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870


your tie rods could very well be bad too. could be everything!

gotta check everything. grab everything you can and shake.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by efyou &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could it jus be the tie rod bushings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just to correct you here...

There are no bushings in the tie rods (#25,27). What seems to be a bushing is actually just a small rubber boot (#26) to keep the grease inside. Under that boot is a ball-joint. The tie-rod ball-joint is only sold as a complete unit and must be replaced as such. Those ball-joints are very easy to inspect though. First take a look at them. If the boot is not torn open, then the ball-joint is most likely fine. The only way to tell for sure though, is to jack up the car & have a friend shake each tire up/down & left/right while you look around underneath. Any play or loose component will make a noise and be easy to locate.

And as Tyson said, check out the rack end bushing (#10). Chances are if your passenger side steering gearbox boot (#23,24) is torn, then that bushing has gone bad. To diagnose, just turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Then go to the passengers side and grab the steering rack (#9) in one hand & the steering gearbox housing (#1) in the other. Now shake the **** out of it. If you feel play in the rack, then you need to replace that bushing (details in Tyson's link).

 

i completely agree with Tyson and 94eg!

 

I had the same problem with my rooter...

 

I was having the same problem...but i knew it wasnt the rotors because they only have 9k miles on them. I replaced the tie rod dust boost and it helped ALOT. Like Tyson said...its usually the suspension that causes the rotors to warp. Just replacing the rotors is sort of a band aid. Theyll keep warping until you fix the underlying problem.

I just got my rack end bushing from honda for $9.70. Im gonna be putting it on this weekend and see how its acting. Then ill prolly turn the rotors and get new pads and all will be good...hopefully

Good luck man

 

i need to do the same, have the same prob. When the cash comes around, all around new bushings!! yay

 

[18 yrs young]


If I went to any competent mechanic (specifically a Honda specialist) and asked him to replace my "rack end bushing"........would he know what I need done? And more importantly, will he charge me an arm and a leg?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sCeRaXn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like Tyson said...its usually the suspension that causes the rotors to warp. Just replacing the rotors is sort of a band aid. Theyll keep warping until you fix the underlying problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not what he said. And the suspension can't "cause a rotor to warp."

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

its a bit of a chicken/egg thing. loose suspension parts cause the rotors to "warp" quicker. warped rotors cause the suspension to become looser.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

A couple other things not mentioned that can cause a brake vibration: Out of round drums and overtorqued wheel lugs.

 

Please explain to me how a suspension problem other than a bad wheel bearing will warp a rotor.

 

loose tie rod, or steering rack will cause play.

the classic wheel bearing test of holding the wheel at the 3 and 9 o clock positions and rocking the wheel is much more of a tie rod test than testing a wheel bearing. you check a wheel bearing by rotating the wheel and feeling for roughness. a wheel bearing would have to be completely toast if it can be felt by shaking.

i think i know what youre getting at that if the wheel bearing is good, then the relative runout between the rotor and knuckle should still be the same, despite a loose tie rod because it attaches to the knuckle itself. but it isnt as simple as that. when the tie rod/steering is loose, the knuckle will wander and still cause play and uneven deposits of brake pad material on the rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by barely4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[18 yrs young]


If I went to any competent mechanic (specifically a Honda specialist) and asked him to replace my "rack end bushing"........would he know what I need done? And more importantly, will he charge me an arm and a leg?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The "should" know. You can't be too specific though when it comes to your car, and your money. You would do best to explain the exact part though, since the service guy may confuse the name "rack end bushing" with the gearbox mounting rubber bushing (on the outside of the gearbox). It's easiest to tell them you need the hard plastic bushing on the INSIDE of the steering gearbox replaced. If you can, print out that picture of the exploded view & show them the exact part (#10)...

There are also pictures of the actual part you can print out inside the link that Tyson posted earlier in this thread...

Also, it's a pretty time consuming process, so they will charge you quite a bit. Try to get a rough quote before you leave them the car (they charge you based on service times in a book).

 

i dont think mechanics bother with stuff like that.

they will just charge you for buying a new "rebuilt" steering rack and install.

but the truth is, that $10 part is the only part other than the pinion bearing that could possibly be "rebuilt" on a manual steering rack. plus adjusting the pinion gearbox tension.