Too much oversteer
just returned from my first autocross with my totally new setup; the old was an h22 in a eg hatch on crappy tires and no sway bars, new setup is same car with gsr engine, lsd, integra gsr front/rear sway bars skunk2 upper control arms, and gsr brakes and subframe with powersteering and new azenis rt 615's. first of all the new setup handles great understeering feels nearly non existent and car feels much more agile and controlable. but the rear has gained a good bit of oversteer, i was planning on adding a asr subframe reinforcement with the 23mm itr sway bar but to my understanding this will only increase the unwanted oversteer. just wandering anyone's opinon on the itr sway bar as well on the general issue and how others control their oversteer. thanks
You should be able to correct any oversteer you are experiencing with changing your driving a bit.
Your setup doesn't sound extreeme enough to produce uncontrollable oversteer.
Your setup doesn't sound extreeme enough to produce uncontrollable oversteer.
Especially in a situation like autocrossing, you could really play with how the car oversteers just by adjusting your tire pressures.
It very well might be your inputs but you can have too much oversteer with this car.
If you have adjustable shocks, make the fronts a bit stiffer or the rears softer. Adding more bar in the rear will add more oversteer.
What are your alignment settings?
If you have adjustable shocks, make the fronts a bit stiffer or the rears softer. Adding more bar in the rear will add more oversteer.
What are your alignment settings?
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I'm amazed you can get that setup to oversteer. I'd usually have to use the ebrake to get oversteer with the stock swaybar.
See the thing is.. you Want oversteer in a FWD car, cuz you hit the gas and it goes straight... see easy.
If you're having problems with oversteer in the slalom, keep your speed steady, get a good entrance speed you can handle and don't come on and off the gas so hard, nut.
See the thing is.. you Want oversteer in a FWD car, cuz you hit the gas and it goes straight... see easy.
If you're having problems with oversteer in the slalom, keep your speed steady, get a good entrance speed you can handle and don't come on and off the gas so hard, nut.
i did get an allignment done after i installed all the stuff. well i guess my question is whether the larger itr sway bar will increase the issue or help control it. either way i will try to play with the tire pressure a little more and try setting the camber neg a little also. and what does everyone mean by inputs?
you controls of the car, steering, brake, throttle. You need to be smooth to be fast.
Try and get a ride with a faster driver at the next event, or have one of them ride with you to give you instant feedback.
Try and get a ride with a faster driver at the next event, or have one of them ride with you to give you instant feedback.
inputs = you're application on throttle, brake, and steering.
A larger rear sway bar of the same design (hollow vs. solid) is going to induce MORE oversteer.
Could you give us some alignment specs, along with the tire pressure you are running? This could very well be a driver induced problem, but if you're setup is out of whack it isn't going to help...
Camber (F/R)
Toe (F/R)
Tire Pressures (F/R)
stock springs?
A larger rear sway bar of the same design (hollow vs. solid) is going to induce MORE oversteer.
Could you give us some alignment specs, along with the tire pressure you are running? This could very well be a driver induced problem, but if you're setup is out of whack it isn't going to help...
Camber (F/R)
Toe (F/R)
Tire Pressures (F/R)
stock springs?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roma’s GSReg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just returned from my first autocross with my totally new setup; the old was an h22 in a eg hatch on crappy tires and no sway bars, </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the "problem". If you're used to driving/auto-xing a car with no swaybars, a car with swaybars is going to feel completely different. Plus without all that extra weight over the front end, it won't plow so much. You just need time and practice to get used to and comfortable with the new setup.
Plus with the LSD, it's really easy to control oversteer. rear end get a little loose? Just give it more gas. You can really change the attitude of the car by just using the gas pedal in a turn.
That's the "problem". If you're used to driving/auto-xing a car with no swaybars, a car with swaybars is going to feel completely different. Plus without all that extra weight over the front end, it won't plow so much. You just need time and practice to get used to and comfortable with the new setup.
Plus with the LSD, it's really easy to control oversteer. rear end get a little loose? Just give it more gas. You can really change the attitude of the car by just using the gas pedal in a turn.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm amazed you can get that setup to oversteer. I'd usually have to use the ebrake to get oversteer with the stock swaybar. </TD></TR></TABLE>
E-Brake???? Are you serious??? I've never touched the e-brake during auto-x and I can get a HELL of a lot of rotation/oversteer. And guess what? My suspension is COMPLETELY stock. No swaybars.
It's all about driver input, and adjusting tire pressures - as stated above.
E-Brake???? Are you serious??? I've never touched the e-brake during auto-x and I can get a HELL of a lot of rotation/oversteer. And guess what? My suspension is COMPLETELY stock. No swaybars.
It's all about driver input, and adjusting tire pressures - as stated above.
yeah i guess smoother inputs will solve most of the problem along with me getting used to the new setup i only had 9 runs and haven't been to a test and tune yet. Seems like everytime i try to get a little practice on the street or empty parking lot late at night i end up with a wreckless driving ticket from the local fuzz. oh and lsd does help tremendously when pulling out of the oversteer. also i played with tire pressure from 40 -45 psi front and rear, the front does great anywhere in that range on the rt 615's, and does anyone run lower pressure on there similar setups.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roma’s GSReg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seems like everytime i try to get a little practice on the street or empty parking lot late at night i end up with a wreckless driving ticket from the local fuzz. </TD></TR></TABLE>What do you expect... keep the racing where it belongs, at events.
As far as tire pressures, 40-45 psi for the front seems to be about right for the RT-615's.
As far as tire pressures, 40-45 psi for the front seems to be about right for the RT-615's.
in auto x alignment is a big issue, be sure to be very smooth with your imputs, i know im repeating what everyone has said, ive been racing for 3 years, i took my stock 95 hatch with 175 section width tires with 6 year old good year t metrics tires and was only 8 seconds of the FTD!!! make sure your camber isnt too much in the rear!!!
bump the tire pressure up in the rear......and work on your driving, remember basic car dynamics...gas off/brake=weight transfer to front=unloading rear tires=overtseer!
slow down before the slalom and accelerate lightly through it. you will not get oversteer if you are on the gas ans dmooth with your steering inputs. it helps if you learn to left foot brake too. that way you can brake hard while keeping the car from nose driving and unloading the rear tires.


