here's what i have so far and is coming in...

turbo mani
garrett gt35r
tial 44mm wastegate
880cc injectors
Resistor Box for injectors
HKS BOV
IC, chargepipes
Downpipe
oil/coolant lines
AEM EMS
UEGO gauge
Walboro 255lph pump - anyone know where I can get the install kit?

.... gauges will be added later. i don't really know what i'm going with but the other 2 will be boost and egt

Modified by FR-MOB: Mr. Lucky at 11:16 AM 5/9/2006


Modified by FR-MOB: Mr. Lucky at 3:24 PM 5/10/2006

 

That sounds like everything to me. Couplers and clamps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridHatch88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That sounds like everything to me. Couplers and clamps </TD></TR></TABLE>

oh yea, i'm using heavy duty trash bags and hardcore zip ties in replacement

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Mr. Lucky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oh yea, i'm using heavy duty trash bags and hardcore zip ties in replacement </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good luck with that MAP sensor?

 

oh snaps... where can i get that at?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1551143

Best deal you will find. Stan's stuff is always top notch.

 

awesome... good looking out

 

would it be safe running a mesh screen or would you guys recommend a filter? if so i'll slap on my blitz sus i had from my wrx

 

I always ran a filter. Screen would work, but I wouldn't want to take the risk, besides, you can still suck in stuff through the screen. Just my .02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridHatch88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always ran a filter. Screen would work, but I wouldn't want to take the risk, besides, you can still suck in stuff through the screen. Just my .02</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't do a screen over inlet, it slow down my spool up time with the t3t04, use a full size filter with a pipe instead.

not sure will you need a missing link if you are running AEM standalone.

you need to tap the oil pan, and oil source.

Optional:

probably a golden eagle air vaccum outlet for the clean installation

Guages(EGT, boost, Oil pressure etc)

intercooler water sprayer(cheap little booger that works wonders)

Baffled catch(don't use cheap empty can, which you could suck in the store/caught oil in the can while under hard corner/braking.

 

rather than putting a filter directly on the turbo. you'd recommend that fabbing up and arm would be more sufficient?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Mr. Lucky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rather than putting a filter directly on the filter. you'd recommend that fabbing up and arm would be more sufficient?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the theory behind this is that colder air=more power, if you suck in colder air to behind with, you end up with denser air. Yes the compression and heat from manifold will heat the incoming air up, but if you draw colder air to begin with, you always ended up with colder air(test and debated to death, some people will tell you it doesn't matter but it's not).

The catch here is you need to find a large enought pipe and filter to fit in very limited space(unless you have a single turbo supra ) on top on that, you need to figure out the proper link, long enough to draw cold air, short enought to combat the lag/spool time


and not sure what rating is the S' fuel pump, i was running a 255 pump when i was boosting my 2.3 accord

you will want to get rid of the factory cat and exhaust, 2.5-3inch turbo back will do it. again, the aem standalone can get rid of the no cat CEL so don't spend the change on CEL elminator/defouler

one more word about tapping the oilpan, make sure you tap it as high as you could so the oil gets to go in and out fast. The turbo seal will not like the hot juice stay too long inside the housing.




Modified by iam7head at 8:45 AM 5/9/2006

 

i'm running the 255 also. basically to compensate for lag. the distance between the filter and the turbo must be at a certain length. shorter for less lag. longer for cooler air? correct me if i'm wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Mr. Lucky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm running the 255 also. basically to compensate for lag. the distance between the filter and the turbo must be at a certain length. shorter for less lag. longer for cooler air? correct me if i'm wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, in most case. you have to find the most effiencent length, it's all about compromise. Most street guy don't want to give up spool time but a properly fabbed compressor intake will yield a gain with minimium expense of spool up time. becareful where you take your S to tune, some tuner might not want to do alot of dyno pull to let you fab the compressor intake, because the dyno gain can be tricky when you trying to duplicate the air flow with the car standing still.

plus you could run some ducting/snorkel of some sort to draw colder air, get creative

 

depening on how much room i have left in the bay. i'll try leaving in the stock air box. fabbing arm behind it with the lid closed to try to prevent heat soak. i'm wondering if i can fit a spoon snorkel still after the IC is installed. if not then i'll have to have something fabbed up.. good idea or no?

 

you probably want to junk the stock intake box, it's going be a bottleneck for FI.

plus the location of the inlet and outlet might not work with the crazy plumping for the S.

I would also stay away from the spoon snorkel, it's kind of small and have alot of bend and crazy change of shape.

without knowing the design of the manifold, i can only comment this far.

but don't sweat now, just have the whole thing installed then look for a way to add the pipe. It shouldn't be so bad, since the S has a huge and empty nose

you'll need a oversized cotton glaze filter or HKS 220 foam filter.(i ran a hks green "mushroom" with 2.5 diameter inlet, the thing sounds so cool when the turbo is spinning at full speed(flow up = filtering down. so change the element or wash them often.)

 

i'm assuming you're recommending a foam filter?

i have a blitz sus filter laying around and i was just going to use that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Mr. Lucky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm assuming you're recommending a foam filter?

i have a blitz sus filter laying around and i was just going to use that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

they flow better than normal cotton glaze(aem/k&N) but the downside of running a foam filter is that it will not filter as well as cotton glaze.

so if you want to run a cotton glaze, get one with a oversized filter section.

 

the blitz SUS filter that i have right now is actually a metal mesh filter.

 

Good luck Lucky

 

thanx frank... i have a lot of support and help from friends. my dad thinks i'm crazy wanting all that power. i'll be one broke cookie. but there's no price for happiness.

i'll post up pics and stuff through the process. UPS and FedEx man will be my best friends in the following weeks to come.

 

i know what you mean man...my dad want's to kill me for all the money i spend on my car.

Im thinking about grabbing the new GP Mugen rims.

He will have a conniption if more parts come

 

anyone know where i can get a 3" outlet flange, 3" vband flange.. got make an adapter for my dp.

 

you should also get a 3mm headgasket to lower your compression for safer boosting.

 

2mm, not 3.