Home Made Traction Bar
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Honda, Factory, Bahrain
Home Made Traction Bar
here is some pic of my Home Made Traction Bar for 93 DelSol and the steps to make one 
and sorry for spilling mistakes
first buy the parts (2 left thrid and 2 right thrid)
open these
weld the the clamp to it
fix the clamp on other side
fix these and take the measurement between them
go to the work shop with ur measurement and make 2 bars.
and dont forget to jack the arm up befor tighten it
thats it
total cost $95.00
and sorry for spilling mistakes
first buy the parts (2 left thrid and 2 right thrid)
open these
weld the the clamp to it
fix the clamp on other side
fix these and take the measurement between them
go to the work shop with ur measurement and make 2 bars.
and dont forget to jack the arm up befor tighten it
thats it
total cost $95.00
Re: (drumking15)
It is very interesting, but I agree that any binding issue should be looked into...
The pivot point on the front tow-hook, MUST be perfectly in-line with the two LCA bushings that attach to the chassis. If they aren't, then your traction bar will try to pull the LCA back & forth (altering caster) as it pivots up & down (binding). This action will quickly wear out your bushings...
Did you try pivoting the LCA without the knuckle or shock attached? First remove the lower damper fork. Next separate the LCA from the lower ball-joint & hang the knuckle up out of the way with a reconfigured wire hanger. Next you should loosen the two LCA mounting bolts at the chassis just enough so the LCA can pivot & freely. Now swing the LCA up & down through it's motions & see if it binds...
Good luck...
The pivot point on the front tow-hook, MUST be perfectly in-line with the two LCA bushings that attach to the chassis. If they aren't, then your traction bar will try to pull the LCA back & forth (altering caster) as it pivots up & down (binding). This action will quickly wear out your bushings...
Did you try pivoting the LCA without the knuckle or shock attached? First remove the lower damper fork. Next separate the LCA from the lower ball-joint & hang the knuckle up out of the way with a reconfigured wire hanger. Next you should loosen the two LCA mounting bolts at the chassis just enough so the LCA can pivot & freely. Now swing the LCA up & down through it's motions & see if it binds...
Good luck...
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 484
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From: Honda, Factory, Bahrain
Re: (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is very interesting, but I agree that any binding issue should be looked into...
The pivot point on the front tow-hook, MUST be perfectly in-line with the two LCA bushings that attach to the chassis. If they aren't, then your traction bar will try to pull the LCA back & forth (altering caster) as it pivots up & down (binding). This action will quickly wear out your bushings...
Did you try pivoting the LCA without the knuckle or shock attached? First remove the lower damper fork. Next separate the LCA from the lower ball-joint & hang the knuckle up out of the way with a reconfigured wire hanger. Next you should loosen the two LCA mounting bolts at the chassis just enough so the LCA can pivot & freely. Now swing the LCA up & down through it's motions & see if it binds...
Good luck...</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i dont know what you just said but anyway thanx
what is LCA and pivoting??
i did test the car today and i think every think is working fine, and nothing is bent after 5 starts with slicks and hope it will last like this...........
i did 1.5 60' without these bars and my target is 1.4's with it
The pivot point on the front tow-hook, MUST be perfectly in-line with the two LCA bushings that attach to the chassis. If they aren't, then your traction bar will try to pull the LCA back & forth (altering caster) as it pivots up & down (binding). This action will quickly wear out your bushings...
Did you try pivoting the LCA without the knuckle or shock attached? First remove the lower damper fork. Next separate the LCA from the lower ball-joint & hang the knuckle up out of the way with a reconfigured wire hanger. Next you should loosen the two LCA mounting bolts at the chassis just enough so the LCA can pivot & freely. Now swing the LCA up & down through it's motions & see if it binds...
Good luck...</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i dont know what you just said but anyway thanx
what is LCA and pivoting??
i did test the car today and i think every think is working fine, and nothing is bent after 5 starts with slicks
and hope it will last like this...........i did 1.5 60' without these bars and my target is 1.4's with it
Re: (CiViC SiR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CiViC SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i dont know what you just said but anyway thanx
what is LCA and pivoting?</TD></TR></TABLE>
LCA = Lower Control Arm
Pivoting = the radial motion that the control arm makes when you move it up & down
Pivot Point = the center of the radial motion that the control arm moves around
what is LCA and pivoting?</TD></TR></TABLE>
LCA = Lower Control Arm
Pivoting = the radial motion that the control arm makes when you move it up & down
Pivot Point = the center of the radial motion that the control arm moves around
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Re: (xerox445)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xerox445 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow....just wow. Send gepetto the shoemaker back to italy.
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lol
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lol
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