how to modify your trans for your hasport hydro converion kit.
well i went to install my new hasport hydro conversion kit and found that with the big arm that replaces the hydrolic ram you are unable to use the 90 degree rubber boot for keeping water and crap out of the trans. so your left with a hole for water and anything to get in your trans, and that sux.
it looks like this...
this is not my pic or trans just an example of what mine looked like before the mod i did when the kit is installed.

that hole is actually a lip all the way around and it is about 3/16" thick and there are no moving objects near it on the inside within a few inches. so i drilled 4 holes with a #26 drill ( i think it was #26 ) but anyway it was the one of the correct drills you can use to tap a 10/24 bold hole. i then tapped all 4 holes with a 10/24 tap and got some 3/4" long 10/24 pan head bolts.....
now get some stainless sheetmetal and cut 2 peices about 3/8" bigger than the hole in the trans in the shape of a square (duh) and drill out the holes in the right spots for the bolts. (make a paper template to do this accurately and drill slightly bigger than your bolts). then get a hole saw about 2" in diameter and drill out the center of your stanless plates....
next go to you local tire shop and ask if they have junk tire inner tubes. (most of them just through them away) i got one from a bull dozer tire and its huge so i have tons of FREE rubber. The reason you need a tire inner tube is because of its resilience (flexability). the material is useful for tons of other stuff, you'll see..... back to the tube.... take your stainless plate and trace and cut out 2 peices or the inner tube the same dimentions of the stainless plates you made. use your moms hole puncher to punch out the holes unless you have a garage punch gun like i do
. now instead of cutting the 2" round hole in the rubber like you did in the plates you made ( cause that would be friggin dumb and defete the whole idea, just cut an x in the middle of each of them with a razor. now take one stainless plate and rubber gasket you made and bolt to the front of the hole. and take the other and put the gasket on the 3/4" bolts that stick through on the inside and plate over that on the inside and put nuts on the bolts and tighten up good. (i used lock tight to be safe) now take a razor and trim any excess rubber stickin out and wala....
you get somthing that looks like this and took me 30 min.
so what you guys think....????


it looks like this...
this is not my pic or trans just an example of what mine looked like before the mod i did when the kit is installed.

that hole is actually a lip all the way around and it is about 3/16" thick and there are no moving objects near it on the inside within a few inches. so i drilled 4 holes with a #26 drill ( i think it was #26 ) but anyway it was the one of the correct drills you can use to tap a 10/24 bold hole. i then tapped all 4 holes with a 10/24 tap and got some 3/4" long 10/24 pan head bolts.....
now get some stainless sheetmetal and cut 2 peices about 3/8" bigger than the hole in the trans in the shape of a square (duh) and drill out the holes in the right spots for the bolts. (make a paper template to do this accurately and drill slightly bigger than your bolts). then get a hole saw about 2" in diameter and drill out the center of your stanless plates....
next go to you local tire shop and ask if they have junk tire inner tubes. (most of them just through them away) i got one from a bull dozer tire and its huge so i have tons of FREE rubber. The reason you need a tire inner tube is because of its resilience (flexability). the material is useful for tons of other stuff, you'll see..... back to the tube.... take your stainless plate and trace and cut out 2 peices or the inner tube the same dimentions of the stainless plates you made. use your moms hole puncher to punch out the holes unless you have a garage punch gun like i do
. now instead of cutting the 2" round hole in the rubber like you did in the plates you made ( cause that would be friggin dumb and defete the whole idea, just cut an x in the middle of each of them with a razor. now take one stainless plate and rubber gasket you made and bolt to the front of the hole. and take the other and put the gasket on the 3/4" bolts that stick through on the inside and plate over that on the inside and put nuts on the bolts and tighten up good. (i used lock tight to be safe) now take a razor and trim any excess rubber stickin out and wala....you get somthing that looks like this and took me 30 min.
so what you guys think....????


sweet deal man, I might have to try it with my hydro lsd trans. On another note. I love your dc 4-1 header, where did you get it?
Trending Topics
its megan and i love it. its great quality for the money : https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1617103
I wonder if you could use a small cv joint boot, instead of that rubber piece, it might seal better / look better
how about an old shift boot (that was rubber?) might have a square bottom you can make work? to make it more water tight as that is not water tight, but definately will help.
Nice work and great thinking!
Nice work and great thinking!
dont forget ( if you didnt read the article ) that there is an identical part on the inside too just like the outside, so for the amount of water and crap that acually gets to touch there.... its pretty water tight. and as for the rubber boot that came with it, its too thick and binds up the hasport shaft.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1320king
Transmission & Drivetrain
1
Feb 20, 2013 09:51 PM
tapiasradiator05
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
9
May 18, 2009 04:19 PM



