My girlfriends daily driver is is a 1999 CR-V EX. It usually averages between 24-28 MPG and I have been trying to find ways to get all of the gas mileage out of it that we can.
So my first experiment is to remove the center driveshaft and make it a 2wd. I did this saturday and topped off the gas before I came home.
The power is about the same but I noticed the front axle vibration (on acceleration) went up because the power is just being split between two axles. Otherwise it still drives normally.
But back to the project. I'm going on a 230 mile (each way) trip tomorrow evening and the test is going to start. I'm going to average 70MPH and try to keep it under 3,000RPM. So i'll post the results tuesday evening when I get back in town and that will be from two fillups. (from a half tank usually.
Now if you want to try it for yourself heres how...
Tools needed
A lift or 4 SAFE jackstands capable of holding all 4 wheels off of the ground.
10mm 12point wrench
12mm socket with a medium extension
14mm socket with the same extension
protecting grease
chisel and hammer

*First of all get the truck on jackstands and be sure it's on solid ground where it isn't going to fall off of them (no gravel or dirt driveways)
*put the truck in neutral and slide under it
*With your chisel and hammer make a good alignment mark on the axle connection point so you can align it when you put it back on (if not it's going to vibrate like crap)
*loosen the 4 10mm bolts that connect the driveshaft to the tansmission and set the bolts in a safe place
*do the same with the rear differential
* remove the two bolts that hold the center support bearing to the frame and put the bolts in the same safe place.
*now the driveshaft is being supported by the two metal holders.
*pull both ends away from the transmission and the differential (if not already done)
*pick one of the supports and remove the two 12mm bolts and carefully place the driveshaft on the ground (it's not heavy just akward)
*do the same with the other support and lay the driveshaft on the ground.
*Replace all of the bolts and holders tightly so they won't fall out and the threads won't corrode while the driveshaft is out.
*there is no need to seperate the driveshaft
*spray the protectant spray on the inside of the differential connector and the transfer case connector to prevent corrosion and rust.

And if you decide to do it tell if you get better MPG!

 

can you make the crv rwd also

but more seriously i would like to know how much better milage you get and if the car has any more mods like intake headers exhaust
i have an aem cai and power neo but i havent calculated mpg sence the power neo
also what rating of octane you used tire psi and anything else that might be important

good luck in the search of better mpg

 

It's completely bone stock with the Honda skidplate on it (helps aero some). Regular gas and 26 Psi (everything is stock) Automatic tranny too.
It's been well maintained and has low mileage (60,000)
If this experiment gives good results i'm going to repeat it on my mom's 04 EX 5spd.
As soon as the warranty runs out it's going to be project CR-Vtec

 

It doesn't sound safe though.

 

why would it not be safe? The driveshaft is sitting in my garage and the same moving parts are there that have always been there.

 

The first tank of gas weilded 25mpg but that was with horrible traffic and rain. The trip home was smooth sailing. When I got home after 264 miles tanked up and 32MPG! The same exact trip two weeks ago leaving from the same gas station gave me 28MPG.
THIS ACTUALLY WORKS!!!!

 

sweet
maybe i'll try it

 

Can you snap some pics of the parts you removed?
Also, what did you plug up the hole in the rear diff with?

 

The only part that stayed out was the driveshaft itself. The rest of the parts were re-installed to keep me from loosing them and to prevent rust/ corrosion.
And there is no hole in the rear differential just the bracket that the driveshaft connects to then splines into the differential.
CRVpimpin ~ i just noticed what you asked and no you can't make it RWD.

 

son of a ........
that would be freaking awsome
i can see the stupidness now crv drifting rofl

 

Well there wouldn't be much point to it but yes you could do it if you transplant a normal old school rear diff in there. It won't work now because it's not a solid connection between the driveshaft and the axles. There is a big clutch pack in the middle that allow it to slip some (so it can turn and not eat the rear tires so bad). So if you "fix the diff" it could be possible but with an upgraded transfer case, rear end gears and axles.
You may be on to something if you can make it work though

 

There is no point in doing this to your mom's 04. My mom has an 03 CR-V Ex. It is not 4WD all the time. It is FWD all the time unless the front tires slip, then the rears kick in but only a small % of the power goes there. It isn't much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no point in doing this to your mom's 04. My mom has an 03 CR-V Ex. It is not 4WD all the time. It is FWD all the time unless the front tires slip, then the rears kick in but only a small % of the power goes there. It isn't much. </TD></TR></TABLE>

But isn't the driveshaft sprinning at all times and the rear diff the only thing that sends that power to the axles?

 

CR-V's are not full time 4WD, they are REALTIME 4WD. This means only the front wheels work and when they slip, the rears get power. What I stated is for the 03+ 4WD models.


Watch this demo, you will understand my point better:

http://automobiles.honda.com/m...R%2DV

Thats from honda's website. I'm don't think you can go tell me that they are wrong.

Plus last night, I decided to check so I put my mom's CR-V on 4 jack stands. I gave it some gas. Only the front wheels were moving

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CR-V's are not full time 4WD, they are REALTIME 4WD. This means only the front wheels work and when they slip, the rears get power. What I stated is for the 03+ 4WD models.


Watch this demo, you will understand my point better:

http://automobiles.honda.com/m...R%2DV

Thats from honda's website. I'm don't think you can go tell me that they are wrong.

Plus last night, I decided to check so I put my mom's CR-V on 4 jack stands. I gave it some gas. Only the front wheels were moving </TD></TR></TABLE>
I work on these things every day. I see what Honda says and I know how the system works. When you put your moms CR-V on the jackstands the rears didn't spin either because you have the parking brake set, it's actually 2WD, or there is a serious problem.
Despite your harping on the play of words all CR-V's that have 4WD Are realtime, fulltime, alltime, Four wheel drive. When you put any 4WD crv in the air and place it in drive ALL OF THE WHEELS WILL SPIN.

 

I totally understand your explanation. It's more detail based than honda's generic description. It just doesn't seem like exactly what honda is saying. I'll look into it some more for my own benefit.

 

Just an update. The CR-V is getting 25 MPG city now. Before it was only getting 23 or lower.

 

like the EPA suggests, mpg is a direct corelation with the driver and the road conditions etc etc..

a few things i'd like to know.

1. now is this with AC or no AC? windows up or down?

2. my mom's 2000 cr-v se auto (116k), gets 25 mpg with 89 octane, mixed driving, with AC.

3. also, are you experiencing a lot of "wheel hop"/torque steer because there is no more 4wd, considering the bulk torque of the b20 (crv version) is down low? the reason i'm asking, removing the 4wd system wouldn't be that great IMO, because i "activate" the realtime 4wd when i'm at a red light---because of sand/water/uphill.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azndng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like the EPA suggests, mpg is a direct corelation with the driver and the road conditions etc etc..

a few things i'd like to know.

1. now is this with AC or no AC? windows up or down?

2. my mom's 2000 cr-v se auto (116k), gets 25 mpg with 89 octane, mixed driving, with AC.

3. also, are you experiencing a lot of "wheel hop"/torque steer because there is no more 4wd, considering the bulk torque of the b20 (crv version) is down low? the reason i'm asking, removing the 4wd system wouldn't be that great IMO, because i "activate" the realtime 4wd when i'm at a red light---because of sand/water/uphill. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's usually short trips with the a/c on rarely with the windows down and with a heavy right foot.
There is no wheel hop at all. just easier wheel spin.

 

I was going to say...that isn't the MPG differance between a 2WD model CRV and a 4WD only like 2 MPG more? Seems like a lot of work for taking away a feature that the vehicle is designed to have. If MPG is THAT impirtant...than you have the wrong car.

 

2mpg city but about 4 highway, that really adds up. it only took about 15 minutes. did you even read the thread?

 

Sounds like you are just taking away rotating mass by removing the weight of the driveshaft. That in itself would give a little more mileage. Good Mod I think as long as there is no side affects. I will check it out on my MDX soon.

 

so to wrap it all up...theoretically, any 2wd crv should get better gas mileage than their similarly equipped 4wd/awd/realtime awd brethen...makes sense, less weight, less transfer of energy (to rotate the driveshaft whether or not its making the rear wheels spin)...personally, i'd just keep my crv 4wd so i can do awd burnouts just kidding.

 

Well i put the driveshaft back in yesterday. It's beach time! Time to test out the skidplate.

 

have you tried anything else? like a drop in k&n filter? or synthetic oil? i know alot of the mileage issues with the older crv's is the fact that its heavy, has low power and needs to stay in upper rpm's to move around.