It very new at this... I'm using a Chicago Electric Arc/Tig welder... Welding mild steel using a 1/16th toriated electrode, and 3/32nd filler rod. The amperage setting is at "2". There is no remote adjustment. I'm flowing argon at 15 cfh.


Right after the welding.

After taking a mild brushing to it.


From the inside... There was a 1/8th gap, I filled in.

I have these questions...
Comparing my weld to the Haynes Weld manual, my amperage setting is too low. However, if I crank it up I burn through.

How does the distance from the work piece effect the weld? I stay about the rod diameter way. But I notice, if I pull back further, there seems to be more melting of the parent material. And if I turn up the gas (there is a remote adjustment on the torch for gas), the heat seems to be more intense.

Am I moving too quickly? I bead the filler material. It doesn't flow.

And lastly, can I go back over the weld without adding filler? Basically, to knock down some of the high spots?

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

did you wire wheel and clean the pipe before welding?

 

use a wirewheel to scuff up the area before welding. they look dirty.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lam.N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use a wirewheel to scuff up the area before welding. they look dirty. </TD></TR></TABLE>

also it looks like thats galvanized steel? so with that coating, it sucks to weld

 

Practice on some flat stock before you attempt welding tubing together and report back.

 

Yes, it is alumunized steel (exhaust stuff). How thick is the coating?

How much of a patch do I need to make with the wire wheel? All I'm using is a dremel.

Does it look my amperage setting is correct?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I4sillypwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Practice on some flat stock before you attempt welding tubing together and report back. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The flat sheet I have are too thin. I don't have anything thicker. I have tired it on there, but I tend to burn through.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scartail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, it is alumunized steel (exhaust stuff). How thick is the coating?

How much of a patch do I need to make with the wire wheel? All I'm using is a dremel.

Does it look my amperage setting is correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

alumunized, thats what I meant..heh, its not too thick at all, shouldnt take much to take if off. maybe like half an inch to an inch to each side of the weld should be good, and make sure to clean it with something before welding(ie. acetone)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hermsfab.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

alumunized, thats what I meant..heh, its not too thick at all, shouldnt take much to take if off. maybe like half an inch to an inch to each side of the weld should be good, and make sure to clean it with something before welding(ie. acetone)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I only have alcohol to clean. I gave it another shot.

I think I have to high of amperage now. I went up to "4".

Does anyone have a vdo of how it is supposed to look during welding? Like from inside the face sheild? Sometime I just see sparks, others molten metal, etc. I can't seem to get the bead to be consistent. Maybe it is just the need for more practice.

 

http://millerwelds.com/educati..._tips/

hit play.

 

Get some thinner filler metal and ditch the pipe till you can lay a bead on some flat stock.

 

For thin metals your gonna need a Tig welder with a remote so you have control over your amperage. Your welder has fixed settings so you have no way to control how much heat your applying. If you have no choice but to be stuck with this welder try laying your filler rod in the gap your gonna weld and start your puddle on top of the filler rod. The rod will take up some of the heat and prevent burn throughs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scartail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The flat sheet I have are too thin. I don't have anything thicker. I have tired it on there, but I tend to burn through.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No such thing as to thin Get some smaller filler rod. Since you don't have a pedal to control heat you are going to have to use your speed to control it. It's going to take some practice but it's much easier to learn on flat stuff.

 

Use some tubing that isn't galvanized cause that **** is not nice to breathe and I think if you don't clean that coating off totally it will still burn up like that and get in the way of the sheilding gas. So get some tubing from a metal supply place first and try again. Oh ya wear a resperator too if your going to weld on that stuff anyways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lam.N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://millerwelds.com/educati..._tips/

hit play.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I saw this one. I was hoping to see actual video. Sometimes I have sparks and spatter, I just wanna see if it's similiar.

I'll keep at it... I need to find a good scrap yard.

 

the spark/splatter is prolly the alumunized coating buring off

 

you should not see any sparks and splatter if your doing it right. what is your gas set at?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lam.N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should not see any sparks and splatter if your doing it right. what is your gas set at?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Set at about 15 cfh, but I have a remote control on the torch. I have been experimenting a bit. I found that if I turn the gas to the minimum when I scratch start, the chance of get an arc is better. After I get an arc, I increase the flow. Does that make sense? I don't have a calibration of what is good to do yet.

Anyway, I called up my bro-in-law (he's machinist), and he said he will mail me some scrap (alot of effort for scrap metal huh?). He is also send me some tunsten, and other supplies. Free is almost the best price!!!

 

i dont know the details of the machine.

try to set it at 18-20cfm.

how is the tungsten sharpened? if on a bench grinder, is the wheel dirty? length-wise or across? is the wheel grit course?

make sure nothing is in the gas line? anything cloging it perhaps?

is that 100% argon?

 

welding galvanized/aluminized steel is proven to cause cancer...
+ use acetone like others have stated much nicer than alcohol and can be purchased @ any place with nail care ****... (walmart, walgreens.... ect) &lt;-make sure to get acetone type some are acetone free...
jsut test out amp/ur speed on a flat piece and get the consistancy down before you start moving up. no one starts out good, you got to learn from experience.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lam.N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know the details of the machine.

try to set it at 18-20cfm.

how is the tungsten sharpened? if on a bench grinder, is the wheel dirty? length-wise or across? is the wheel grit course?

make sure nothing is in the gas line? anything cloging it perhaps?

is that 100% argon?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll try to up the flow rate. I'm using straight argon.

I'm using a dremel tool to sharpen my tungsten. New grinding wheel.

I'll check the gas line again. Maybe my tank is empty? The tank pressure is at about 500 psi (what's considered empty?)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB20TDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">welding galvanized/aluminized steel is proven to cause cancer...
+ use acetone like others have stated much nicer than alcohol and can be purchased @ any place with nail care ****... (walmart, walgreens.... ect) &lt;-make sure to get acetone type some are acetone free...
jsut test out amp/ur speed on a flat piece and get the consistancy down before you start moving up. no one starts out good, you got to learn from experience.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll get some acetone and stay away from the aluminized steel for now. Cancer I don't want. I'll get better...

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll be laying dimes in no time!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB20TDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
+ use acetone like others have stated much nicer than alcohol and can be purchased @ any place with nail care ****... </TD></TR></TABLE>

you can buy it by the gallon at hardware or paint stores.
(they also usually have pint and half gallon containers, kind of like milk )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Niles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can buy it by the gallon at hardware or paint stores.
(they also usually have pint and half gallon containers, kind of like milk )</TD></TR></TABLE>
i did not know this thank you, haha i just keep the little nail polish thing in my box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scartail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm using a dremel tool to sharpen my tungsten. New grinding wheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I bet you are sharpening it the wrong way, I can't imagine using a dremel and sharpening it the right way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bet you are sharpening it the wrong way, I can't imagine using a dremel and sharpening it the right way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah. unless its this kind of dremel
several companys sell this type of tungsten sharpener: CK worldwide, HTP usa, etc.