I might sell my LS1 Rx-7 in the near future and one of my choices is a s2k. I plan on turboing it as in stock form it is not very powerful. Seeing that the only opening for any air is the front bumper, the FMIC will block air to the radiator, meaning that it will eventually run hot, specially in El Paso weather.

Anyone here have cooling issues? There is an s2k with holes in its front bumper, the one from the thread "Show me a clean s2k", so I guess there are problems. I want to hear it from guys who have experience with them. Anyone make a V-mount set-up? That would rule !!

Also, how does the rear end hold up to more power? The drivetrain for that matter.

Anyway, some tips and pointers are appreciated, thanks.

 

Cody@lovefab.com

 

there are overheating problems.. even when you're stock.... just get the cooling mods from mugen or spoon... thermostat, radiator cap, and fan switch...also a vented hood will help let the air escape.. and use redline water wetter.....

there is a vmount setup, a couple comapnies/shop are making them... however you need to have it customly built if you want to keep the AC..

the rear diff is weak if you're going to be drag racing the car.... only other options on this is the comptech reinforced housing.... or the nissan s13 diff swap...

 

off topic, but I use to live in El Paso

 

SO you know how hot it can get then.

 

At least its dry heat, around here its humid 90 degrees in the summer.

As everyone said some minor cooling mods will help, thermostat, fan swutch, or maybe even upgraded radiator. Ive never went over 3 bars around me or at the occasional track use.

 

 

i live in el paso, i think ive herd about your RX i live on the westside i think thats where ive seen it, any way shoot me an e-mail and we could exchange numbers, my friend has an AP2 turbo, and hes waiting on a Lovefab mani and AEm ems, i want to turbo my s2k as well, red4742135@aol.com

 

Check with A-Spec tuning. They make a V-mount setup. Having come from the RX-7 world, you should be quite familiar with them.

Tim

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by papa5murf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are overheating problems.. even when you're stock.... just get the cooling mods from mugen or spoon... thermostat, radiator cap, and fan switch...also a vented hood will help let the air escape.. and use redline water wetter.....

there is a vmount setup, a couple comapnies/shop are making them... however you need to have it customly built if you want to keep the AC..

the rear diff is weak if you're going to be drag racing the car.... only other options on this is the comptech reinforced housing.... or the nissan s13 diff swap...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please let me know more about overheating in stock form, the car's in hood temp do run hot but i don't think it's anywhere near overheating.

the nose of the S is huge, you can stuff a FMIC and a oversized radiator easy.

Slim pusher and puller fans would be a plus if you running a huge FMIC

 

In stock form, the car does not overheat unless the front opening is blocked with debris or there is pressure loss in the cooling system. Even on the track, running 30 minute sessions in 100 degree so cal summer weather, the car will not overhead if maintained properly.

 

I HIGHLY recommend getting the Mugen thermostat and fan switch. I live in South Florida, so i know about heat...lol It keeps my car between 170 - 190f. vented hood and aluminum radiator couldnt hurt either.


Modified by OGPackin at 3:52 AM 5/10/2006

 

My car is powered by an LS1 from a Corvette, all motor, so I know nothing of V-mounts regarding an S2k.

THanks for the help, I'll hang around here and read up, there is plenty to read.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Please let me know more about overheating in stock form, the car's in hood temp do run hot but i don't think it's anywhere near overheating.

the nose of the S is huge, you can stuff a FMIC and a oversized radiator easy.

Slim pusher and puller fans would be a plus if you running a huge FMIC</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's more of the engine getting heat soaked....i've experienced heat soak on a dyno and in stop and go traffic.... when the car was on the dyno, the temp was around 90degrees and about 50% humidity and there was a loss of about 5-8rwhp on back to back runs.....we let the car sit for about 20-30 minutes and ran it again.. and the power was back...

i've only experienced 4 bars on an ap1 once.... and that was on a rather hot and humid day going though some back roads (with some buddies) and pushing the car quite hard and in vtec for more then an hour with slight breaks out of vtec while getting to the next set of twisties...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by txturbogs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car is powered by an LS1 from a Corvette, all motor, so I know nothing of V-mounts regarding an S2k.

THanks for the help, I'll hang around here and read up, there is plenty to read.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

They make a LOT of great turbo kits for the FC and FD + other cars.

http://www.a-spectuning.com/



Tim

 

They do, but not for an LS1 powered FD...you know, the engine from the Corvettes and Camaros? hehehe...people seem to miss that..

ANyway, nice pictures...I'll go into that web site and search around. Thanks

 

fan switch = useless if you get a kit with the AEM EMS

 

I got it. I've looked at and priced out LS1's quite a few times. I've considered FC, FD, S2000, TR6, and 1.5 Gen W-body Monte Carlo LS1 swaps (in order of probability of me actually being able to pull it off). I like the Monte Carlo idea best just because it would make the best sleeper of the group (lots of room, LOTS of grandmas drive them, + they're dirt cheap and already use many GM parts)

Tim