Hello, I have a 2000 gsr and I want to use a P73 (Type-R) ecu to past smog. The immobilzer on the P73 ecu has been removed, desoldered by the previous owner. The problem is that the P73 ecu throws the immobilizer check engine light, and I don't think I can pass like that.

To my understanding the immobilzer is the chip on the left pictured here:


Now, pictured here is the P72 (gsr) on the left and P73 (type-r) on the right.

Can I solder in my gsr immobilizer chip onto the P73 board? (therefore use my stock gsr key with no check engine light?)

 

good question..
I've been wondering if this would work or not too, just haven't had any customers request this. I'm sure this would work, wouldn't hurt to try tho....

 

I'm curious, why won't the GSR ECU pass smog?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good question..
I've been wondering if this would work or not too, just haven't had any customers request this. I'm sure this would work, wouldn't hurt to try tho....</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think it would work, I don't really see why not.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm curious, why won't the GSR ECU pass smog?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It might not because my gsr block has pr3 pistons and itr cams in it, which raises the comp up to 11.3 according to the c-speed calc. A usdm itr ecu comes the closest (compression wise) if I want to smog my car legally.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milano2kdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It might not because my gsr block has pr3 pistons and itr cams in it, which raises the comp up to 11.3 according to the c-speed calc. A usdm itr ecu comes the closest (compression wise) if I want to smog my car legally. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You could use the GSR ECU and retard the ignition timing a bit (14 deg BTDC) to prevent the knock sensor from intervening. If the ITR ECU a temporary fix just to pass smog?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could use the GSR ECU and retard the ignition timing a bit (14 deg BTDC) to prevent the knock sensor from intervening. If the ITR ECU a temporary fix just to pass smog?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm also running the ITR ecu so that my car runs well. Running the gsr ecu with that setup is sluggish. The cams and pistons are also paired with a skunk2 intake manifold, so the engine is setup pretty similar to a an R. I'm hoping that I can use the ITR ecu in the future as my "stock" ecu.



Modified by milano2kdc2 at 11:10 AM 5/8/2006

 

This may help.

http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtop...41198

 

I'm just going to use a GSR ECU to pass emissions, then swap the other one into place to drive.

I have a 2000 ITR ECU with the immobilser removed. Currently the only code I get is secondary O2 (since I haven't hooked it up yet). I was actually contemplating re-wiring the dash so, the CEL went to the "service-soon" light then hook the oil pressure light to the CEL light so, it looks like it's powered when I crank it up.

If I hook up the secondary O2 and get rid of the CEL code, will the ECU ever go into "Readiness" state and confirm the emissions to the scanner?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This may help.

http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtop...41198</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, but it does not apply to usdm ecus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm just going to use a GSR ECU to pass emissions, then swap the other one into place to drive.

I have a 2000 ITR ECU with the immobilser removed. Currently the only code I get is secondary O2 (since I haven't hooked it up yet). I was actually contemplating re-wiring the dash so, the CEL went to the "service-soon" light then hook the oil pressure light to the CEL light so, it looks like it's powered when I crank it up.

If I hook up the secondary O2 and get rid of the CEL code, will the ECU ever go into "Readiness" state and confirm the emissions to the scanner?</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't thread jack please

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milano2kdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks, but it does not apply to usdm ecus</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't read the article too in depth. Search around on pgmfi.org for "immobilizer". They may have found a solution.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think this should be public information.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why? Removing the immobilizer already is public information. Thieves don't care about CELs.

 

dude there is the simplest solution to your problem and I did it when I had to pass inspection. Before I replaced my cat I was throwing a code and was already past due on my inspection. So I drove to the place and when I got a block away, stopped, turned my car off and disconnected the battery. This reset my ecu and it takes about 20 miles or so for the engine to go through all the codes and such before the light will re-appear. Tok it in, passed me and about 15-20 miles later the CEL came back on but I already had my inspection sticker. You can also just remove your ecu to reset it as well. Hope this helps. Also, try to go on a non-busy day so your not waiting in line forever and if you are, shut your car off...

 

I am using a 99 ECU with a conversion harness. No immobilizers on the 99's - as far as I know (after asking Katman and several others) the CEL you get on 00 and 01 ECU's after removing the immobilizer is inevitable.

 

so just do what i recommended, if all your trying to do is pass inspection, itll be fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think this should be public information.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dynamo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am using a 99 ECU with a conversion harness. No immobilizers on the 99's - as far as I know (after asking Katman and several others) the CEL you get on 00 and 01 ECU's after removing the immobilizer is inevitable. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so just do what i recommended, if all your trying to do is pass inspection, itll be fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

ssbgsr, the immobilizer CEL comes on right when the car is started, even after reseting the ecu. This CEL is different from other CELs (i.e. o2 sensor). As far as using a 99 ECU, I think they can tell when they plug in the obd2 reader to the car.

Anyway, I'm going to try it coming weekend, i'll keep u guys updated

 

so then disconnect the CEL bulb, remove the cluster and take it out, hahaha im just tryin to give the kid the easiest fix here so he doesnt have to go through a lot of hassle at the DMV, man there ****** annoying,i failed for excessive water in my rear brake light...are u F'in joking me... to the DMV

 

so? did you swap the immobilizer over?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so? did you swap the immobilizer over?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not yet, i won't be able to do it till friday

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milano2kdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

not yet, i won't be able to do it till friday </TD></TR></TABLE>

coool..
keep us updated! I'm curious about this

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">coool..
keep us updated! I'm curious about this </TD></TR></TABLE>

alright, the immobilzer chip just got soldered in...


...and the result is that is doesn't work.

When I plugged in the ECU, I tried starting the car but it would just crank. So I guess theres something else going on Oh well, I'm going to ask Len about this

 

Okay, the first test (results are in the post above this) the soldering connections didn't seem very well, so I did it again, and this time we for sure got the connections correct, and now...

the car starts up as if there was no chip in there at all, the check engine light comes on as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milano2kdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, the first test (results are in the post above this) the soldering connections didn't seem very well, so I did it again, and this time we for sure got the connections correct, and now...

the car starts up as if there was no chip in there at all, the check engine light comes on as well</TD></TR></TABLE>

interesting.
are you sure you're installing the IMM chip the correct way?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">interesting.
are you sure you're installing the IMM chip the correct way?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, it is the right way

Also, the check engine light that comes on cannot be flashed for a code. When the chip was out of the P73 previously, it did flash a code for the removed immobilizer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milano2kdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, the first test (results are in the post above this) the soldering connections didn't seem very well, so I did it again, and this time we for sure got the connections correct, and now...

the car starts up as if there was no chip in there at all, the check engine light comes on as well</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wonder if you overheated the immo chip. Check out this link:

http://www.doctronic.at/eng/pr...g.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder if you overheated the immo chip. Check out this link:

http://www.doctronic.at/eng/pr...g.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

interesting chip

According to this thread, https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=468260 , code 0 means ECU problem, but the car starts and drives normally.


edit: heres a picture of the connections (connecters 1 and 2 from the right are not touching, its just the angle)

 

use a ecu off of a 99 gsr it will work.