the mother of all break jobs
I'm working on a 93 prelude that has been sitting outside for 2 years. The car was driven only 5 times in the last 2 years and has developed rust on most of the break components.
I want to replace the rotors (back) With cross drilled and slotted rotors.
The front I will replace the calipers with Vtec calipers and 15” cross drilled and Slotted rotors from Brembo.
This is were the problem is , the rusted bolts are driving me crazy. I has taken me 3 days to take 3 bolts off the car. I'm in way over my head on this project due to the tools I don’t have. I don’t have an impact wrench and even if i did i could not get it into the tigh spaces to get the nuts off.
My other problem is the one of the pistons popped out of the caliber. How will I go about putting it back into place?
Another question is how can i tell if the front calipers are seized?
Images taken with cell phone
Dose any one have any advice to solve this problem.
I do not have a torch that is hot enough to heat the bots ( I have a gas torch).
I do not have an impact wrench nor a breaker bar.
I have penetrating oils and a regular automotive wrench set.
Please help.
Modified by tintin11 at 8:15 PM 5/5/2006
I want to replace the rotors (back) With cross drilled and slotted rotors.
The front I will replace the calipers with Vtec calipers and 15” cross drilled and Slotted rotors from Brembo.
This is were the problem is , the rusted bolts are driving me crazy. I has taken me 3 days to take 3 bolts off the car. I'm in way over my head on this project due to the tools I don’t have. I don’t have an impact wrench and even if i did i could not get it into the tigh spaces to get the nuts off.
My other problem is the one of the pistons popped out of the caliber. How will I go about putting it back into place?
Another question is how can i tell if the front calipers are seized?
Images taken with cell phone
Dose any one have any advice to solve this problem.
I do not have a torch that is hot enough to heat the bots ( I have a gas torch).
I do not have an impact wrench nor a breaker bar.
I have penetrating oils and a regular automotive wrench set.
Please help.
Modified by tintin11 at 8:15 PM 5/5/2006
the first time I had take the rotors off I broke 3 ratchets w/ a breaker bar. This being my only car I decided to take the whole hub assembly and the piece that runs to the UCA off as once piece and took it up to the gas station. The guy hit it w/ an impact wrench and was done in 30 sec of which I had spent hrs trying. If you got another car take it apart and run it up there. they prolly wont even charge you.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,633
Likes: 1
From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
good luck fitting 15" rotors!
i'm sure you meant 11.1" rotors. and unless u're doing it for the bling factor, which is cool if that's your thing, the x-drilled/slotted stuff is worse than a blank rotor.
for rusted bolts, get some pb blaster, a bfp, and possibly a torch of some kind. which bolts are you having trouble with? caliper bolts? bracket bolts?
as far as the pistons go, it's not a bad idea to get some reman'd calipers from your autoparts store.
i'm sure you meant 11.1" rotors. and unless u're doing it for the bling factor, which is cool if that's your thing, the x-drilled/slotted stuff is worse than a blank rotor.
for rusted bolts, get some pb blaster, a bfp, and possibly a torch of some kind. which bolts are you having trouble with? caliper bolts? bracket bolts?
as far as the pistons go, it's not a bad idea to get some reman'd calipers from your autoparts store.
The caliper in the second picture is from the rear,correct?? You need a special tool (or flat head screw driver) and you have to rotate the piston back into place. Turn it clockwise to retract it.
With the bolts holding the brake caliper on, just get a big extension and you should be fine with some muscle.
With the little screws on the rotor itself, get a dremel, cut a slot into it and flat head it out. If a simple flat head cant remove it, take a large metal hammer and "impact" it out with the flat head screw driver.
Once the caliper and screws are off, take a large hammer and knock the rotors off.
With the little screws on the rotor itself, get a dremel, cut a slot into it and flat head it out. If a simple flat head cant remove it, take a large metal hammer and "impact" it out with the flat head screw driver.
Once the caliper and screws are off, take a large hammer and knock the rotors off.
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take a wide flathead screwdriver and spin the piston back in, the boot shoudl pop into the lip on the end... i hope the boot is still sealed into the caliper because that is a major ****** pain in the ***. i can't tell if it is from that picture though. my rear reman. calipers were $70 each after a core
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Turn it clockwise to retract it.</TD></TR></TABLE> I just did mine and clockwise pushed it in, not pull it out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shutta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I just did mine and clockwise pushed it in, not pull it out</TD></TR></TABLE>
I said retract not extract. word definitions 0wn j00
I said retract not extract. word definitions 0wn j00
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tintin11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dose any one have any advice to solve this problem.
I do not have a torch that is hot enough to heat the bots ( I have a gas torch).
I do not have an impact wrench nor a breaker bar.
I have penetrating oils and a regular automotive wrench set.
Please help.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can't do things without the right tools. If you don't you will end up breaking ****: the tool, the part, or you.
You must at least get a breaker bar. Get a 1/2", they are the most useful. In the US you can get one for like $8 at Harbor Freight, so no excuses. As for rust, I have used PB Blaster in the past with good success. I can get it at automotive stores.
Dose any one have any advice to solve this problem.
I do not have a torch that is hot enough to heat the bots ( I have a gas torch).
I do not have an impact wrench nor a breaker bar.
I have penetrating oils and a regular automotive wrench set.
Please help.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You can't do things without the right tools. If you don't you will end up breaking ****: the tool, the part, or you.
You must at least get a breaker bar. Get a 1/2", they are the most useful. In the US you can get one for like $8 at Harbor Freight, so no excuses. As for rust, I have used PB Blaster in the past with good success. I can get it at automotive stores.
I just use half the handle on my jack, makes a GREAT breaker bar(well sort of)... I even take on the road with me if i'm working on someone elses car. But I say spend a few extra bucks on the right tools so you don't have this headache again
I am looking on a Prelude that have been sitting for 8 months. The rotors were rusted a whole lot as well. It got scraped off when it was driven though, but the brakes still feel softish. What do you think cause this? Would I need to change out my brake system as well?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,633
Likes: 1
From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RickeyJa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am looking on a Prelude that have been sitting for 8 months. The rotors were rusted a whole lot as well. It got scraped off when it was driven though, but the brakes still feel softish. What do you think cause this? Would I need to change out my brake system as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>
flush the brake fluid first and see how that feels.
flush the brake fluid first and see how that feels.
U gotta hook up the tools! Go to walmart and buy a impact wrench for like 40bucks......its not great,but not trash either...Campbell and Hausfield
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