I blew my A6 last week, and as a replacement I built an A6/Y8 mini-me with D16A1 pistons. I got a P28 and a Y7 dizzy, wired everything up and checked it many times, the wiring is right. So I'm havaing starting problems, of course. It cranks but doesn't want to start. Until tonight there was no spark (the motor has been in since Sunday). I swapped ECUs and there's now spark, but nothing is happening still, I also charged the battery back up around that time so I think it may have to do with that. It turns over, seems to be getting spark/fuel, and pops in the exhaust and intake, but no catching at all. It seems a little like a fuel problem because it will try to start on starting fluid, but not enough to catch and keep going. I pulled out my OBD0-OBD1 harness tonight to make sure I put all the pins in the right place and I discovered the pin for CYP P was bent and not contacting. I straghtened it out and put it back in and that's when the popping started (finally, that was actually a big step). I don't know if the battery is just too low now (11.7V) or what, I'm getting very frustrated. Is there ANYTHING else I should check or be aware of that's different with the Y8 head than the Z6 head? Like, do the grounds all go in the same spots, the plug order/orientation, anything at all that might be easily overlooked? I'm using my OBD0 injectors with the resistor box still, I didn't touch any of that stuff, and I replaced the cap and rotor on the dizzy. I'm getting really frustrated, it's been almost 3 weeks since I've driven my car, and I can't wait to see how this new motor does.

 

Come on, nobody knows anything... what if I say it's clearly a JDM starting problem...

 

Since you are using an OBD2 distributor with an OBD1 ecu, I assume that all of the wiring is matched up. Also, I'm pretty sure that you don't need to use the resistor box with the injectors if you are using an OBD1 ecu. I would also recharge your battery so you have a full 12 volts of cranking power. Have you verified that you are getting fuel? Checked for injector pulse?

 

Are you sure the firing order for the plugs is right? Popping out of the intake sounds like it's firing when the intake valves are open. 1-3-4-2 sequence (if you didn't already know). maybe?

 

Yes I've double and triple checked the dizzy wiring. I'm also not getting any codes, this is a clean swap install, no RPM switch hack or anything. I kept the resistor box, as the box matters on the injectors, not the ECU. OBD0 injectors need a resistor box. I have the firing order right as well. This is why I'm stumped, I don't see why I'm having problems. How do I check injector pulse?

 

how come you didn't use the a6 dizzy
it fits right on the y8 head
micht be easier than wiring the y7

 

I converted to OBD1 and used a P28, the A6 OBD0 dizzy doesn't work with that.

 

There is a thing called a noid tester that you can plug into the injector wiring to see if they are getting voltage. You could also use a multimeter.

 

Yeah I popped a plug out and it was getting power... how much should it be getting?

 

did you check your timing?

 

Yeah, timing is perfect. We tried another manifold to see if the injectors were firing and they aren't. When the key is on, they are all getting a constant 12V. I'm going to check the A01, A03, A05 and A02 pins from the ECU now, are there any other ECU signals that deal with the injectors?

 

I think one of the distributor's sensors is used to signal the injectors when to fire. I'd like to say the CYP (crank angle sensor), but I'm not too sure.

 

Ok... so the injectors are priming, but not firing, so I assume they aren't getting signal from the dizzy. I replaced the ICM today and still nothing. I also double and triple checked my conversion harness and I'm using a borrowed P28 that is known good, so I know the problem must be in the dizzy (or I think I know that). I'm stuck again, with the replaced ICM still no fuel... but the weird thing is I'm getting popping in the intake when I crank it for a while. I don't know what to do... I'd like to test with another dizzy but I don't know anyone around here with an EK that I can borrow from. So... is there anything else in the dizzy I should check (igniter is good).

 

go to autozone and buy a dizzy, and if its not your prob then return it

 

I don't really have the cash to do that... but it's starting to look like the best option. Should I be having any problems using a D16Y7 dizzy? I did convert the wiring correctly (also checked many many times)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't really have the cash to do that... but it's starting to look like the best option. Should I be having any problems using a D16Y7 dizzy? I did convert the wiring correctly (also checked many many times)?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, if you are having issues with the D16Y7 distributor you can always try the D15B7 distributor. It shares the same bolt pattern as the D16A6 distributor so it would slap right onto the head and gie you the simplicity of OBD-1. Could it be possible that there is something wrong with the resistor box?

 

What does that dizzy come on? I tested the resistor box and it's fine, also it's been running fine on the A6 (before it broke) and the motor ran with the OBD0 ECU and dizzy. At a suggestion from another forum, I took the dizzy off and turned it by hand, and the injectors and plugs were working fine. I think there must be an interference or wiring problem with the starter, since using either a key or jumping the terminals to run the starter kills the injectors. I tested the whole harness I made, it checks out for continuity. I made it with the female plugs off a PM5 and the harness plugs from the same car the P28 came from in the yard, with about 18 inches of extra wire. I had to tear off a lot of covering on the wire and I remember there was some shielding, maybe something needs to be shielded in there?

 

This might be stupid but... does the alternator make a difference?