i have a '94 prelude si non-vtec and its seems to not be running right. when it sit at idle it sounds like a out-borad boat motor...it putts real bad. its been this way for a while and i just figured maybe the timing was off or something else. but i went to change my spark plugs the other day and i pulled out one of the spark plugs and the part that sparks is black when the others are fine. what would cause that cylinder not to spark? and would this be the reason my car runs like it does?

please help...

 

When was the last time you did a tune-up? Spark plugs, ignition wires, cap and rotor?

Its possible that the plug is firing, but its not getting gas. Maybe a stuck injector?

Try the easiest stuff first.

 

well i did plugs like last week, plug wires (ngk) like 6-7 months ago, i changed the fuel filter at the same time as the wires, ive never done the cap or rotor and ive had the car for almost a year i dont know about the injectors, ive put fuel injector cleaner in it a couple times before but it did seem to make a difference.

anything else it cold be?


Modified by i_heart_EG at 7:48 AM 5/2/2006

 

Try cap and rotor

 

pull the plugs and figure out if the plugs are actually sparking or not....

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1607463

Try this.

Bad news for you though i do not beleive your IM will have these ports.

meaning you will have to drill the manifold. I reccommend taking off the manifold off to clean it.

edit: did you say only 1 plug is black? Which cylinder is misfiring and is the Check Engine light on?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by limpmode &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
edit: did you say only 1 plug is black? Which cylinder is misfiring and is the Check Engine light on?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah only one plug, its the middle one closer to the driver side and no the check engine light is not on.

 

That's your #2. Could just be a fouled plug or wire then. forget my thread about the EGR, that's prob not your issue.

 

ok, but what do you mean fouled plug or wire...they are new plugs and the wires are about 6-7 months old, but they are NGK so they are good ones.

edit: do you think it could be the cap and rotor? this might be a stupid question, but does it matter what wire goes where on the distributor, cause maybe i have them on the wrong plug or something?


Modified by i_heart_EG at 4:31 AM 5/3/2006

 

bump.

 

um yes it matters VERY much...

If your plug wires are on the wrong plugs then your timing is all fucked up. Your plugs will spark on the wrong strokes.

 

thats what i figured...i think they are in the right way because i put the new wires in the same place as the ones were when i bought it, which were most likely stock.

but just to make sure do you have a diagram or pic that show what plug goes to which spot on the dizzy?

and any other suggestions on what it might be...or should i try changing the cap and rotor and see what happenes first?

 

bump.

 

looking at cap:

3 4

1 2
C

Facing the engine from front bumper:

Cylinders are left to right: 4-3-2-1

Just match them up.

 

thanks.

edit: after i make sure those are correct, i should change cap and rotor and probably put some fuel intector cleaner in my tank?

 

Yes and if that fails take off your fuel rail and check all your injectors. A "rebuild kit" which is basically new seals and what not is only about $20. Although, only do this if your injectors look pretty nasty. How many miles are on your car?

 

around 130,000 i think...

 

thanx for the help guys! i get paid today, so ill probably go get an oil change, a cap and rotor, some new plugs, and check those injectors some time this week.

but thanks

 

what would i do to clean my injectors if the look nasty? get some fuel injector cleaner, like the stuff u put in your gas tank and try to clean it?

 

Like I said there is a "rebuild kit" where it gives you new seals, o-rings, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94preludeguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like I said there is a "rebuild kit" where it gives you new seals, o-rings, etc. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, but ive never had to do anything like that. so im not too sure on how to get the fuel rail off and everything, and i dont want to mess anything up.

is there anything special to get it off or is it pretty much self explainatory by looking at it?

 

well aint that some ****...yesturday i bought a new cap and rotor and i take the cap off and go to unscrew the rotor and the Fing screw is stripped. i was so pissed. so i put the new cap on and it made it run a little better, but im pretty sure a new rotor would make it run a hell of alot better.

any ideas on how to get the striped screw out?

 

bump.

 

Fuel rail and injectors are pretty easy to get off.

As far as the screw.. Take a drill and use a fairly small drillbit, drill very hard and far in, then gently try to unscrew it. If you get most of it out you could get the rest with pliers.

If the hole is stripped just tap and thread to the next size up.