loose front end thread..........again:)
So im having all kinds of problems with the front end of my 1990 CRX Si. i had the Energy suspension master kit installed as well as the shifter stabilizer kit...and it surely helped, but my front end is still loose. while driving, it seems smooth, but hitting the brakes it feels unsteady and when any uncertainty (pot holes/divits) is drove over, the wheels feeel like there is extensive play. no real problems while turning. i have check the axles, the shocks, and springs...all fine....
so, i have the ES master kit, about to install the ES TA bushings, have both upper strut braces, have tockico illuminus, tein stech sports, new front wheel bearings, new rear wheel bearings, all new arp studs, and i think thats it.
what else should i look for and how do i go about fixing this nasty problem?
i want my car to look and drive like new....anything else mechanically that would help?
thanks....
so, i have the ES master kit, about to install the ES TA bushings, have both upper strut braces, have tockico illuminus, tein stech sports, new front wheel bearings, new rear wheel bearings, all new arp studs, and i think thats it.
what else should i look for and how do i go about fixing this nasty problem?
i want my car to look and drive like new....anything else mechanically that would help?
thanks....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ball joints, steering rack?</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^^^^^^^^ thats all there is that would cause that unless you have seriosuly warped rotors since your saying the front end goes nuts when you get on the brakes.
^^^^^^^^^^ thats all there is that would cause that unless you have seriosuly warped rotors since your saying the front end goes nuts when you get on the brakes.
I have this problem also. Everything is good on my car, except i think the rack is bad. Try wiggeling or tapping on the rod right after the boot on ur steering rack, it might make the same noise. . . Mine does. I kno my problem is somewhere in their, i jus havent had the time to get at it. Plus i heard itsa common problem with 88-91 hondas.
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instead of replacing the whole steering rack, just replace the steering rack end bushing and adjust the pinion gearbox. thats all there is in a rebuilt rack anyway, and its just $10 in parts. just a bitch to do. but worth it.
it will tame your shaking during braking. warped rotors isnt the sole reason why your car shakes when braking. a warped rotor alone will just cause a mild pulsing felt through the steering wheel if everything else is tight. the shaking is because theres too much play in the suspension. just replacing the warped rotor with a new one will just make the new rotor warped faster because the play in the suspension greatly accelerates warping.
more info, again.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870
and yes, check your tie rods as well.
it will tame your shaking during braking. warped rotors isnt the sole reason why your car shakes when braking. a warped rotor alone will just cause a mild pulsing felt through the steering wheel if everything else is tight. the shaking is because theres too much play in the suspension. just replacing the warped rotor with a new one will just make the new rotor warped faster because the play in the suspension greatly accelerates warping.
more info, again.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870
and yes, check your tie rods as well.
I just wanted to mention the radius control arm bushings. Mine were shot and it made the front twichey?? under braking and acceleration. The stock ones are $30 for both at the H dealer.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">more info, again.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870
and yes, check your tie rods as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Especially if your steering gearbox boots are torn...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870
and yes, check your tie rods as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Especially if your steering gearbox boots are torn...
did you have an alignment done after your bushings were instald.?? if not then get one. your aligment will be all screwed up even if they were very carefull.
My question is, How do u get the steering rack out... Take the 4 bolts off that hold it to the car ... then it comes free but how do u get the steering knuckle part out ? im confused. I need to get this done real bad
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rexdout45 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My question is, How do u get the steering rack out... Take the 4 bolts off that hold it to the car ... then it comes free but how do u get the steering knuckle part out ? im confused. I need to get this done real bad</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL! It's definently much more involved than that. If you don't have the Honda (Helms) manual, then don't even try it. Just locate the messed up parts, and replace them yourself if possible. If it's something too complex, then have it done professionaly. The link that was provided completely details the removal of the steering rack. You should read it...
LOL! It's definently much more involved than that. If you don't have the Honda (Helms) manual, then don't even try it. Just locate the messed up parts, and replace them yourself if possible. If it's something too complex, then have it done professionaly. The link that was provided completely details the removal of the steering rack. You should read it...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rexdout45 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My question is, How do u get the steering rack out... Take the 4 bolts off that hold it to the car ... then it comes free but how do u get the steering knuckle part out ? im confused. I need to get this done real bad</TD></TR></TABLE>
pop off the outer tie rods at each side. then crawl inside under the steering column, remove the plastic cover and loosen the pinch bolt at the U joint at the pinion. then remove the 4 bolts and the steering rack is almost completely free now, except you will have to drop the exhaust and shift linkage. then it will drop out.
if you dont know how to pop off tie rods, then look it up. comes up a lot on how-to threads on axles.
pop off the outer tie rods at each side. then crawl inside under the steering column, remove the plastic cover and loosen the pinch bolt at the U joint at the pinion. then remove the 4 bolts and the steering rack is almost completely free now, except you will have to drop the exhaust and shift linkage. then it will drop out.
if you dont know how to pop off tie rods, then look it up. comes up a lot on how-to threads on axles.
Wow thanks Tyson.. u made me feel mcuh smarter then the other guy did... I mean I put a new motor in my car... a new clutch quite a few times... axles are a breeze... all I asked was a simple question and I always get smart allic remarks back. But ne ways thanks for ur post I can get it outta my parts car now : )
Originally Posted by rexdout45
...all I asked was a simple question and I always get smart allic remarks back.
Originally Posted by 94eg!
Here is an update:
I was originally wanting to do the work with the steering gearbox still in the car. After some careful though, I decided it would infinitely easier to just remove the thing. It came out pretty easy...
Disconnect Tie rod ends from steering knuckles
Disconnect Steering column from Gearbox
Disconnect Exhaust pipe from header down-pipe
Disconnect Shift linkage (one bar at the transmission one bar at the shifter)
Disconnect the gearbox from the chassis
Slide gearbox to the right till tie rod end clears chassis
Slide gearbox left & out
Next I cleaned the gearbox with a full can of brake cleaner & washed it with orange blast (looks new). I proceeded to remove the tie rod ends, & they just wrenched right off. The jam nuts, however, were pretty rusted to the inner tie rods. An hour soaking in PB Blaster did the trick & they came right off. I proceeded to cut off the old torn boots. On the CRX, the inner boot clamps are the screw down type, so I took those off & saved them. The outer clamps are a coil that pops off with a screwdriver (saved them also). Next I had to remove the inner tie rod end on the passenger side of the rack so I could get the "inner rack bushing out". The lock washer turned out to be a bitch, but hammering a screwdriver bent the tabs enough to get ahold of them with some pliers. Next, two adjustable wrenches made quick work of the inner tie rod. I would have tired just wrenching them if I had standard cresent wrenches.
Now on to the inner rack bushing. The two tabs on the inner bushing are clearly visible through two holes in the side of the steering gearbox. Using a flat head screw driver & began prying at those nubs to get the bushing to move out. It took a ton of patience (& some random micro screw drivers, Allen wrenches & a custom bent cotter pin & hammer) to get that damn bushing out of the housing. Once it came out, I was the happiest guy in a 10 mile radius!
I followed up pushing the rack in on the drivers side until it was sticking out on the passenger side as far as it would go. Then I cleaned the rack with a towel & gave it a LIGHT coat of suspension lube. I lightly lubed the inside of the new inner bushing & slid it onto the steering rack (to much lube won't let air flow back & forth as you steer). After a little squeezing I got the thing partially into the gearbox. Next I pushed the rack all the way into the gearbox so it was sticking all the way out the drivers side. Using some needle nose pliers I squeezed & pushed the tabs of the inner bushing until the cleared the gearbox housing & started to go in (be sure the tabs are perfectly lined with the gearbox holes. Next I set the whole gearbox on end & pressed the bushing into the housing (pressed it down onto my work bench). Then I used the old bushing, a washer, and a hammer to tap the new bushing into its final resting place.
Then I removed the boot from the other side of the steering gearbox, cleaned & re lubed everything. Reinstalled the inner tie rod that I took off (with new lock washer). Bent the tabs of the new lock washer down (I used a hammer & flat head to get them started). Slid the new boots on. Put all the old clamps onto the new boots. Put the jam nuts & tie rods back on & the whole thing feels good as new. No more play in the shaft!!!
I originally marked the tie rods & steering column so I could put everything back how it goes, but all my markings washed off . I have a feeling I'm gonna be limping to the alignment place. And I'm also gonna be re-centering the steering wheel after my alignment.
I was originally wanting to do the work with the steering gearbox still in the car. After some careful though, I decided it would infinitely easier to just remove the thing. It came out pretty easy...
Disconnect Tie rod ends from steering knuckles
Disconnect Steering column from Gearbox
Disconnect Exhaust pipe from header down-pipe
Disconnect Shift linkage (one bar at the transmission one bar at the shifter)
Disconnect the gearbox from the chassis
Slide gearbox to the right till tie rod end clears chassis
Slide gearbox left & out
Next I cleaned the gearbox with a full can of brake cleaner & washed it with orange blast (looks new). I proceeded to remove the tie rod ends, & they just wrenched right off. The jam nuts, however, were pretty rusted to the inner tie rods. An hour soaking in PB Blaster did the trick & they came right off. I proceeded to cut off the old torn boots. On the CRX, the inner boot clamps are the screw down type, so I took those off & saved them. The outer clamps are a coil that pops off with a screwdriver (saved them also). Next I had to remove the inner tie rod end on the passenger side of the rack so I could get the "inner rack bushing out". The lock washer turned out to be a bitch, but hammering a screwdriver bent the tabs enough to get ahold of them with some pliers. Next, two adjustable wrenches made quick work of the inner tie rod. I would have tired just wrenching them if I had standard cresent wrenches.
Now on to the inner rack bushing. The two tabs on the inner bushing are clearly visible through two holes in the side of the steering gearbox. Using a flat head screw driver & began prying at those nubs to get the bushing to move out. It took a ton of patience (& some random micro screw drivers, Allen wrenches & a custom bent cotter pin & hammer) to get that damn bushing out of the housing. Once it came out, I was the happiest guy in a 10 mile radius!
I followed up pushing the rack in on the drivers side until it was sticking out on the passenger side as far as it would go. Then I cleaned the rack with a towel & gave it a LIGHT coat of suspension lube. I lightly lubed the inside of the new inner bushing & slid it onto the steering rack (to much lube won't let air flow back & forth as you steer). After a little squeezing I got the thing partially into the gearbox. Next I pushed the rack all the way into the gearbox so it was sticking all the way out the drivers side. Using some needle nose pliers I squeezed & pushed the tabs of the inner bushing until the cleared the gearbox housing & started to go in (be sure the tabs are perfectly lined with the gearbox holes. Next I set the whole gearbox on end & pressed the bushing into the housing (pressed it down onto my work bench). Then I used the old bushing, a washer, and a hammer to tap the new bushing into its final resting place.
Then I removed the boot from the other side of the steering gearbox, cleaned & re lubed everything. Reinstalled the inner tie rod that I took off (with new lock washer). Bent the tabs of the new lock washer down (I used a hammer & flat head to get them started). Slid the new boots on. Put all the old clamps onto the new boots. Put the jam nuts & tie rods back on & the whole thing feels good as new. No more play in the shaft!!!
I originally marked the tie rods & steering column so I could put everything back how it goes, but all my markings washed off . I have a feeling I'm gonna be limping to the alignment place. And I'm also gonna be re-centering the steering wheel after my alignment.
Thanks for that post.. Definately the info I needed.... sry I didnt look at the first page. That info will definately be next weekends project!!
I have the same problem! Replacing the rack end bushing certainly helped but didn't solve the problem entirely. I thought it might actually be the rear control arm bushings but they look fine. Any pics of these radius rod bushings?
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Tyson
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May 21, 2006 09:57 PM







