how do i check it or are those wires supposed to be loomed with sheilded wire

 

a little more info

 

CODE 9 is the #1 postion senor right. will if it is u need a new distributor mostly. the senor is built in to the casting. mine came on and after about a week the coil burned up and the then a had to replace the coil, cap and distributor casting. if i'm right u might want to replace it soon or u could be broke down some were because you have no fire.

 

that is the ckp code.

that will rev limit u to 3500 rpms.

most likely a wiring mess up.

check your wiring....

 

no wat i meant is does it have to be in a sheilded wire

 

i had the same problem with my DPFI to MPFI i ended just running everything straight to ecu because i was not sure what wire was wrong make sure all your wires are all going into the right spot the 2 white wires are easy to confuse

i used the chart off http://www.fourthgenhatch.net/mpfi.html it helped me big time
alot of other websites i found out to be wrong which is how i ran into the problem in the first place

and make sure everything is sodered and no wires are touching others

 

and it cant be the dizzy or ecu because came off a car with no codes noone will answer my real ??

 

check ur wiring fool.

learn how to read also.

its obvious.

this is a common problem ckp and tdc codes..

 

what ecu are you running
what dizzy are you running

 

90 civic ex manual ecu and dizzy

 

if you are running a pre obd diz and computer and it was a known working dizz, then
A: bad ecu
B: faulty wiring.

I just re-did my dpfi to mpfi wiring and the correct solder and quality high impediance wire made a large difference.

your cylinder position code is possibly due to the 2 white wires switched

 

if those two white wires are switched the car wont even start though, iv got the same problem and dont know whats going on. iv tried everything and i havent gotten rid of this code. im sure my wiring is right, and please dont say check it again cuz iv checked it about 5 times and redid it about 2 times. iv even replaced my dizzy once and still get the code but the car will run alot better but i get hesitation at 3000rpms sometimes. not all the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cjwarren4dcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and it cant be the dizzy or ecu because came off a car with no codes noone will answer my real ??</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes shield it. it has to be protected from RFI

and solder your wiring instead of just electrical tape.


Modified by soslodelsol at 1:10 AM 4/30/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soslodelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes shield it. it has to be protected from RFI

and solder your wiring instead of just electrical tape.


Modified by soslodelsol at 1:10 AM 4/30/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

so do you think im getting code 9 because i used speaker wire.. not car speaker wire just some black wire from the source(radio shack)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by janz3n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so do you think im getting code 9 because i used speaker wire.. not car speaker wire just some black wire from the source(radio shack) </TD></TR></TABLE>

my friend ran into that problem too. have a look at your wiring and make sure all the connections are good and protected. a little makes a big difference.

the quality shouldnt matter as much. check resistance for the crank sensor/ whatever and check to see if its within specs