B16 headers question for the crx...
I was woundering if any body had any other opinions on what type or what brand of headers to go with for the b16 swap in the crx besides Hasport....
~Carey
~Carey
if you want decent ground clearance get some kind of 4-2-1 header...megan racing makes a good piece,,but with most headers you'll have to drill holes in the pipes,and weld on 2 o2 bungs in the proper place for the motor/ecu to run right...or get the ecu chipped to turn off the o2's or only see 1 ,,etc..you get the point..
Hasports is probbly the worst header out there. It's made to fit not flow.
A real header like RMF AN-R is what I would call best. Well worth the work to install.
A real header like RMF AN-R is what I would call best. Well worth the work to install.
Umm DC sports has always been right there with HP and cost 4-2-1. I guess the type R headers 4-1 are great if you don't mind doing more work to take them on and off. There are lots of headers out there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bdubblu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Umm DC sports has always been right there with HP and cost 4-2-1. I guess the type R headers 4-1 are great if you don't mind doing more work to take them on and off. There are lots of headers out there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
DC is at best midgrade header. I have one on my hatch it required beating granted I have a 1.8L and A/C and its just not that good. Not to say its a bad part just nothing worth they hype.
JDM ITR header is quite good for a stock part yet again i'd quiafiy it as midgrade.
Trust me a good header is worth the headache.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
DC is at best midgrade header. I have one on my hatch it required beating granted I have a 1.8L and A/C and its just not that good. Not to say its a bad part just nothing worth they hype.
JDM ITR header is quite good for a stock part yet again i'd quiafiy it as midgrade.
Trust me a good header is worth the headache.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ***-assin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
DC is at best midgrade header. I have one on my hatch it required beating granted I have a 1.8L and A/C and its just not that good. Not to say its a bad part just nothing worth they hype.
JDM ITR header is quite good for a stock part yet again i'd quiafiy it as midgrade.
Trust me a good header is worth the headache.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well it depends on what you plan on doing with the car I suppose. I could recommend an 800-900 dollar header also, which only gets 5-8 more horsepower than what you call a "midgrade" header, but is this guy racing for points or money this season in the IHRA? Doesn't sound like it. DC sports has been making headers for hondas since the git go. I have had DC stainless one piece on my CRX with a B16 and A/C and it did NOT require beating, bending, banging or anything of the sort you describe. It is a quality manufactured piece which is why I would recommend it. It is not necessarily the "best" header. The type r you also claim is "midgrade" is a FACTORY part. Factory has a reputation over aftermarket quite often as far as fitment and tolerences are concerned. So in other words... what is it that defines "quality" to you? For me... fitment, durability, and cost play into that. Also what the persons goal is. Does he really want a header he can say he paid 900 dollars for just so he can say it? So you can post up your recommendations, but you don't need to roam around Honda Tech, trying to show people you know what is fastest, or best and making condescending statements about other peoples recommendations. I have been tuning Hondas for 9 years, which means you were 11 years old when I started.
DC is at best midgrade header. I have one on my hatch it required beating granted I have a 1.8L and A/C and its just not that good. Not to say its a bad part just nothing worth they hype.
JDM ITR header is quite good for a stock part yet again i'd quiafiy it as midgrade.
Trust me a good header is worth the headache.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well it depends on what you plan on doing with the car I suppose. I could recommend an 800-900 dollar header also, which only gets 5-8 more horsepower than what you call a "midgrade" header, but is this guy racing for points or money this season in the IHRA? Doesn't sound like it. DC sports has been making headers for hondas since the git go. I have had DC stainless one piece on my CRX with a B16 and A/C and it did NOT require beating, bending, banging or anything of the sort you describe. It is a quality manufactured piece which is why I would recommend it. It is not necessarily the "best" header. The type r you also claim is "midgrade" is a FACTORY part. Factory has a reputation over aftermarket quite often as far as fitment and tolerences are concerned. So in other words... what is it that defines "quality" to you? For me... fitment, durability, and cost play into that. Also what the persons goal is. Does he really want a header he can say he paid 900 dollars for just so he can say it? So you can post up your recommendations, but you don't need to roam around Honda Tech, trying to show people you know what is fastest, or best and making condescending statements about other peoples recommendations. I have been tuning Hondas for 9 years, which means you were 11 years old when I started.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bdubblu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well it depends on what you plan on doing with the car I suppose. I could recommend an 800-900 dollar header also, which only gets 5-8 more horsepower than what you call a "midgrade" header, but is this guy racing for points or money this season in the IHRA? Doesn't sound like it. DC sports has been making headers for hondas since the git go. I have had DC stainless one piece on my CRX with a B16 and A/C and it did NOT require beating, bending, banging or anything of the sort you describe. It is a quality manufactured piece which is why I would recommend it. It is not necessarily the "best" header. The type r you also claim is "midgrade" is a FACTORY part. Factory has a reputation over aftermarket quite often as far as fitment and tolerences are concerned. So in other words... what is it that defines "quality" to you? For me... fitment, durability, and cost play into that. Also what the persons goal is. Does he really want a header he can say he paid 900 dollars for just so he can say it? So you can post up your recommendations, but you don't need to roam around Honda Tech, trying to show people you know what is fastest, or best and making condescending statements about other peoples recommendations. I have been tuning Hondas for 9 years, which means you were 11 years old when I started.</TD></TR></TABLE>Should I be impressed?
In those 9 years you sure havn't made a half way good street motor then.
Do you honestly think AN-R is 900 just for bragging rights? Not the fact they are hand made use better steel and flow much better then cookie cutter mass production headers?
I think I was quite compleintry towards the JDM ITR header calling it just as good as most aftermarket and its a stock part. We seem to agree yet you disrespect me for it?
You have a b16 so what I have a lsvtec it is taller I needed beating to fit it, I never spoke of it with a 1.6L when I had my 1.6L I never had A/C nor a header so I didn't speak of how it require hammering to fit in. You put words in my mouth.
This was for the best headers hands down Bisi RMF ANR etc are the best he wanted to know our thoughts I think and with much research and watching dynos and builds to back it it is well worth the money for a good header when staying N/A.
You havn't learned much in those 9 years, other then being a disrespectful *** hat who knows less then someone who was 11 when you started building cars. I'd look into somthing else as a hobby.
Well it depends on what you plan on doing with the car I suppose. I could recommend an 800-900 dollar header also, which only gets 5-8 more horsepower than what you call a "midgrade" header, but is this guy racing for points or money this season in the IHRA? Doesn't sound like it. DC sports has been making headers for hondas since the git go. I have had DC stainless one piece on my CRX with a B16 and A/C and it did NOT require beating, bending, banging or anything of the sort you describe. It is a quality manufactured piece which is why I would recommend it. It is not necessarily the "best" header. The type r you also claim is "midgrade" is a FACTORY part. Factory has a reputation over aftermarket quite often as far as fitment and tolerences are concerned. So in other words... what is it that defines "quality" to you? For me... fitment, durability, and cost play into that. Also what the persons goal is. Does he really want a header he can say he paid 900 dollars for just so he can say it? So you can post up your recommendations, but you don't need to roam around Honda Tech, trying to show people you know what is fastest, or best and making condescending statements about other peoples recommendations. I have been tuning Hondas for 9 years, which means you were 11 years old when I started.</TD></TR></TABLE>Should I be impressed?
In those 9 years you sure havn't made a half way good street motor then.
Do you honestly think AN-R is 900 just for bragging rights? Not the fact they are hand made use better steel and flow much better then cookie cutter mass production headers?
I think I was quite compleintry towards the JDM ITR header calling it just as good as most aftermarket and its a stock part. We seem to agree yet you disrespect me for it?
You have a b16 so what I have a lsvtec it is taller I needed beating to fit it, I never spoke of it with a 1.6L when I had my 1.6L I never had A/C nor a header so I didn't speak of how it require hammering to fit in. You put words in my mouth.
This was for the best headers hands down Bisi RMF ANR etc are the best he wanted to know our thoughts I think and with much research and watching dynos and builds to back it it is well worth the money for a good header when staying N/A.
You havn't learned much in those 9 years, other then being a disrespectful *** hat who knows less then someone who was 11 when you started building cars. I'd look into somthing else as a hobby.
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Ya know, I don't get along with you 9/10 ***-assin, but MAN was this kid out of his element responding to you like that....
and LOL @ his list of what makes a quality part not including function or performance
EDIT: Congrats on delivering the Degree
and LOL @ his list of what makes a quality part not including function or performance
EDIT: Congrats on delivering the Degree
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G0crxG0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ya know, I don't get along with you 9/10 ***-assin, but MAN was this kid out of his element responding to you like that....
and LOL @ his list of what makes a quality part not including function or performance
EDIT: Congrats on delivering the Degree</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you much sir
Remember I'm the kid though
and LOL @ his list of what makes a quality part not including function or performance
EDIT: Congrats on delivering the Degree</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you much sir
Remember I'm the kid though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ***-assin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember I'm the kid though
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean?
I love posts like this.....the OP's gonna come back to check it and be like WTF
</TD></TR></TABLE>What do you mean?
I love posts like this.....the OP's gonna come back to check it and be like WTF
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G0crxG0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What do you mean?
I love posts like this.....the OP's gonna come back to check it and be like WTF</TD></TR></TABLE>
You called him a kid and I was mearly teasing as he called me one also.
Me being a whipper snapper and all
What do you mean?
I love posts like this.....the OP's gonna come back to check it and be like WTF</TD></TR></TABLE>
You called him a kid and I was mearly teasing as he called me one also.
Me being a whipper snapper and all
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ***-assin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Me being a whipper snapper and all
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL that's you alright.
I almost **** myself when I read in your Degree thread, when you described yourself as "shy and bashful"
ROFLMAO not on HT your not!!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>LOL that's you alright.
I almost **** myself when I read in your Degree thread, when you described yourself as "shy and bashful"
ROFLMAO not on HT your not!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G0crxG0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
LOL that's you alright.
I almost **** myself when I read in your Degree thread, when you described yourself as "shy and bashful"
ROFLMAO not on HT your not!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ask those who know me in person be nice to me then I'm shy and bashful
LOL that's you alright.
I almost **** myself when I read in your Degree thread, when you described yourself as "shy and bashful"
ROFLMAO not on HT your not!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ask those who know me in person be nice to me then I'm shy and bashful
for the DC one pice header you have on your B/16 did you have to customize your exhaust piping at all j/w. B/c after i get my headers I'm gonna get DC's or Skunk2 Catback exhast do you think i would have to modify that at all? like length wise?
the JDM CTR / 96 spec ITR header is nice because its 4-2-1 and basically fits like stock but it has a 2.5" collector.. now whether you can use the B16A top piece on it and keep the 2 x O2, im not quite sure... as im using it but converted to OBD1 so im using the O2 bung in the downpipe
I didn't have header on my b16 just my lsvtec.
I didn't need to mod the header as I am obd1. My header was a gift from my tuner as he got backed up leaving me with out my hatch so he was kind enough to give it to me.
I didn't need to mod the header as I am obd1. My header was a gift from my tuner as he got backed up leaving me with out my hatch so he was kind enough to give it to me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ***-assin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> My header was a gift from my tuner as he got backed up leaving me with out my hatch so he was kind enough to give it to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Talk about professional businessman conduct
When our local shop (Slow Motion) gets backed up they tell you ToughShit, right before they don't torque your bolts to specs, and right before they don't give you back your parts
Talk about professional businessman conduct

When our local shop (Slow Motion) gets backed up they tell you ToughShit, right before they don't torque your bolts to specs, and right before they don't give you back your parts
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G0crxG0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Talk about professional businessman conduct
When our local shop (Slow Motion) gets backed up they tell you ToughShit, right before they don't torque your bolts to specs, and right before they don't give you back your parts
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That really sucks!
He's also a good friend of mine but, he does take care of all his customers when he was doing tuning and installs.
Isn't that illegal not to give you back parts?
Talk about professional businessman conduct

When our local shop (Slow Motion) gets backed up they tell you ToughShit, right before they don't torque your bolts to specs, and right before they don't give you back your parts
</TD></TR></TABLE>That really sucks!
He's also a good friend of mine but, he does take care of all his customers when he was doing tuning and installs.
Isn't that illegal not to give you back parts?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ***-assin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Isn't that illegal not to give you back parts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd assume so.
IDK the way it went down was awkward.
Call me a dumbass, but I didn't realize til a month or two later that they hadn't given me back my stock GSR IM, or old clutch.
I've been through so much **** arguing with these guys just about the shitty job they did (a thread got to about 35pgs) that by then/now they'd just deny it, and I cant prove it, so I just say F-it and bad mouth the hell out of them whenever I get a chance (check above post and this
Isn't that illegal not to give you back parts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd assume so.
IDK the way it went down was awkward.
Call me a dumbass, but I didn't realize til a month or two later that they hadn't given me back my stock GSR IM, or old clutch.
I've been through so much **** arguing with these guys just about the shitty job they did (a thread got to about 35pgs) that by then/now they'd just deny it, and I cant prove it, so I just say F-it and bad mouth the hell out of them whenever I get a chance (check above post and this
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G0crxG0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'd assume so.
IDK the way it went down was awkward.
Call me a dumbass, but I didn't realize til a month or two later that they hadn't given me back my stock GSR IM, or old clutch.
I've been through so much **** arguing with these guys just about the shitty job they did (a thread got to about 35pgs) that by then/now they'd just deny it, and I cant prove it, so I just say F-it and bad mouth the hell out of them whenever I get a chance (check above post and this
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That blows *** I hate shady shops!
Least the parts didn't hold huge vaule not that it makes it any less a sting. You have a reason to badmouth them, any hell they get or people who won't go there is just their own fault.
I'd assume so.
IDK the way it went down was awkward.
Call me a dumbass, but I didn't realize til a month or two later that they hadn't given me back my stock GSR IM, or old clutch.
I've been through so much **** arguing with these guys just about the shitty job they did (a thread got to about 35pgs) that by then/now they'd just deny it, and I cant prove it, so I just say F-it and bad mouth the hell out of them whenever I get a chance (check above post and this
</TD></TR></TABLE>That blows *** I hate shady shops!
Least the parts didn't hold huge vaule not that it makes it any less a sting. You have a reason to badmouth them, any hell they get or people who won't go there is just their own fault.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ***-assin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That blows *** I hate shady shops!
Least the parts didn't hold huge vaule not that it makes it any less a sting. You have a reason to badmouth them, any hell they get or people who won't go there is just their own fault.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah it wasn't anything big, but they claimed I needed a new clutch when my clutch had been operating fine til then, but I took their word and got a new one. I just wanted the old clutch to inspect.
I definitely have cause to bad mouth them:
-They installed a OBD2 engine on OBD0 and didn't tell me the conversion wasnt included when paying for a swap, just assumed I knew.
-My rear engine mount's bolt came out because they didn't torque it
-they left my interior and ecu plate undone
-They actually left their tools in my car (what REAL mechanic forgets his tools anywhere?)
-Didnt give me back my parts
-took a week and a half longer then they told me
Yeah, definitely not a good shop. Apparenntly some people have good experiences with them, but mine speaks for itself.....
Back to topic, my brother had a DC header on his H22 Prelude andnd they performed fine. I'd never pay top dollar for a header, I dont believe it could possibly function THAT much better.
Least the parts didn't hold huge vaule not that it makes it any less a sting. You have a reason to badmouth them, any hell they get or people who won't go there is just their own fault.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah it wasn't anything big, but they claimed I needed a new clutch when my clutch had been operating fine til then, but I took their word and got a new one. I just wanted the old clutch to inspect.
I definitely have cause to bad mouth them:
-They installed a OBD2 engine on OBD0 and didn't tell me the conversion wasnt included when paying for a swap, just assumed I knew.
-My rear engine mount's bolt came out because they didn't torque it
-they left my interior and ecu plate undone
-They actually left their tools in my car (what REAL mechanic forgets his tools anywhere?)
-Didnt give me back my parts
-took a week and a half longer then they told me
Yeah, definitely not a good shop. Apparenntly some people have good experiences with them, but mine speaks for itself.....
Back to topic, my brother had a DC header on his H22 Prelude andnd they performed fine. I'd never pay top dollar for a header, I dont believe it could possibly function THAT much better.


