h22a1 obd1 motor into 5 gen lude using obd1 ecu (searched)
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Toronto, ON, Canada
Re: h22a1 obd1 motor into 5 gen lude using obd1 ecu (The_Sober)
Stolen from this thread
http://www.preludeonline.com/s...05693
I am going to be doing the JDM H22 swap into my 99 Prelude. I have done lots of searching so that I can minimize the redundant questions as much as possible. I suppose I will do a summary of my findings then ask questions.
- The JDM H22 is a closed deck design, obd1 (which is easier to tune), slightly higher compression (10.6:1, therefore greater gains from modification), and best…not very expensive. Both the USDM and JDM motors make 200 hp. Because of the 10.6:1 CR, the JDM H22A has slightly more torque (JDM = 161 lb-ft, USDM = 156 lb-ft). I've read that the JDM H22A is a more powerful motor because of a slightly better head design and the more aggressive ecu maps. Again, from reading, it looks like they dyno in the 170's in stock trim.
-I will be purchasing the Non-Type S/ Non SIR S-Spec motor from hmotorsonline.com.
I called them and they quoted me $1200 just for the longblock (full motor) + $200 for the JDM p13 ecu + $180-$190 shipping to Pennsylvania from California. I have not made the purchase yet simply because funds are not available at this time. I’ve called other places and this shipping quote blows others completely out of the water. If you want the JDM p13 ecu from them without buying the motor, it will run you $250.
-There are quite a few things that need to be swapped from your obd2 5th gen h22a4 motor to the obd1 jdm h22 motor to make the swap go nice and smooth. Here goes…
-The jdm intake manifold, from what I’ve read, is the same as the 5th gen intake manifold. If you would like to use the jdm intake manifold and throttle body, you will need a 4th gen firewall mounted MAF sensor. If you would like to avoid purchasing the 4th gen MAF sensor, then use the jdm intake manifold with the usdm throttle body by swapping your throttle body over to the jdm motor. However if you'd like to make things as simple as possible, just use your 5th gen intake manifold and throttle body.
- Here is the bulk of what you'll need to swap into the JDM H22A from your H22A4:
Oil pump housing + TDC & CKP sensor, distributor, alternator, ignition coil, thermostat housing, 5th gen obd2 engine wiring harness, alternator bracket, the knock sensor and the timing and balance belt sprockets.
-If you plan on running obd1, you'll need an obd1 ecu (JDM or USDM), 4th gen VTEC injectors (Peak & Hold 310 cc), an obd1 resistor pack (from any Honda), and an obd2a-obd1 ecu conversion harness.
-With your JDM H22 in your possession, there should be a few things that you should do to ensure that it has a long healthy life. First, obviously, you’ll need to swap all of the parts that I mentioned above from your H22A4 to your JDM H22. After you’ve swapped all of those parts over, I would recommend:
-Valve Adjustment tool to do a valve adjustment
-Aftermarket Cam seal (STR, Golden Eagle, Forum Racing, etc.)
-Valve Cover gasket set with spark plug well grommets (might as well do this since you’re going to be taking off the valve cover to replace the cam seal)
-OEM Honda Rear Main Seal (why not? They’re only $11-$12 from majestichonda.com)
-OEM Honda Water pump (I don’t think I need to give an explanation of why the water pump and timing belt are extremely important)
-OEM Honda Timing Belt
-OEM Honda Balance Shaft Belt (if you’re not going to keep your BS belt off)
-OEM Honda Manual Tensioner conversion (the whole thing can be purchased from importrp.com, they include every part necessary for the conversion for $89.00)
-Spark plugs, Distributor Cap, Distributor Rotor, and Spark plug wires.
-Both Accessory belts (alternator and power steering belts)
-While my motor and tranny is out, I might as well put some fun stuff in there:
-ACT Stage 2 HDSS disc with heavy-duty pressure plate
-Fidanza 9.6 lb flywheel
-Technafit SS Clutch line
-OEM Honda Slave Cylinder
-OEM Honda Axle Seals
-Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
-Crank scraper (from crankscrapers.com)
-Hondata Thermal Intake Manifold Gasket
-With the motor back in the car:
-New Oil and Oil Filter
-New Coolant
-New Tranny Fluid
-This will be all you need, with the exception of the fun stuff, to make your JDM H22 compatible with your 5th gen lude.
-If you have experience in this area please post with corrections or good information and I will edit my post and add the new info.
-In my searching I primarily got my info from one person. I would like to give Keith all the credit for the knowledge that I have condensed and passed along in this thread. I also got a few tidbits from NotoriousSH. Thank you both!
Now for Questions:
-What is with the oil pan swapping thing? I don’t understand the point. Some people say don’t worry about it, then others will recommend it.
-From reading, I’ve gathered that the vacuum lines on the jdm intake manifold are a little different. Is there any truth to this? Those of you that have done this swap, what are your thoughts on this?
-I live in Pennsylvania and I need to be able to pass emissions. I plan on going obd1. How easy is it to pass emissions using my obd2 ecu? Will I need to swap things back and forth to make the obd2 ecu useable for passing emissions?
http://www.preludeonline.com/s...05693
I am going to be doing the JDM H22 swap into my 99 Prelude. I have done lots of searching so that I can minimize the redundant questions as much as possible. I suppose I will do a summary of my findings then ask questions.
- The JDM H22 is a closed deck design, obd1 (which is easier to tune), slightly higher compression (10.6:1, therefore greater gains from modification), and best…not very expensive. Both the USDM and JDM motors make 200 hp. Because of the 10.6:1 CR, the JDM H22A has slightly more torque (JDM = 161 lb-ft, USDM = 156 lb-ft). I've read that the JDM H22A is a more powerful motor because of a slightly better head design and the more aggressive ecu maps. Again, from reading, it looks like they dyno in the 170's in stock trim.
-I will be purchasing the Non-Type S/ Non SIR S-Spec motor from hmotorsonline.com.
I called them and they quoted me $1200 just for the longblock (full motor) + $200 for the JDM p13 ecu + $180-$190 shipping to Pennsylvania from California. I have not made the purchase yet simply because funds are not available at this time. I’ve called other places and this shipping quote blows others completely out of the water. If you want the JDM p13 ecu from them without buying the motor, it will run you $250.
-There are quite a few things that need to be swapped from your obd2 5th gen h22a4 motor to the obd1 jdm h22 motor to make the swap go nice and smooth. Here goes…
-The jdm intake manifold, from what I’ve read, is the same as the 5th gen intake manifold. If you would like to use the jdm intake manifold and throttle body, you will need a 4th gen firewall mounted MAF sensor. If you would like to avoid purchasing the 4th gen MAF sensor, then use the jdm intake manifold with the usdm throttle body by swapping your throttle body over to the jdm motor. However if you'd like to make things as simple as possible, just use your 5th gen intake manifold and throttle body.
- Here is the bulk of what you'll need to swap into the JDM H22A from your H22A4:
Oil pump housing + TDC & CKP sensor, distributor, alternator, ignition coil, thermostat housing, 5th gen obd2 engine wiring harness, alternator bracket, the knock sensor and the timing and balance belt sprockets.
-If you plan on running obd1, you'll need an obd1 ecu (JDM or USDM), 4th gen VTEC injectors (Peak & Hold 310 cc), an obd1 resistor pack (from any Honda), and an obd2a-obd1 ecu conversion harness.
-With your JDM H22 in your possession, there should be a few things that you should do to ensure that it has a long healthy life. First, obviously, you’ll need to swap all of the parts that I mentioned above from your H22A4 to your JDM H22. After you’ve swapped all of those parts over, I would recommend:
-Valve Adjustment tool to do a valve adjustment
-Aftermarket Cam seal (STR, Golden Eagle, Forum Racing, etc.)
-Valve Cover gasket set with spark plug well grommets (might as well do this since you’re going to be taking off the valve cover to replace the cam seal)
-OEM Honda Rear Main Seal (why not? They’re only $11-$12 from majestichonda.com)
-OEM Honda Water pump (I don’t think I need to give an explanation of why the water pump and timing belt are extremely important)
-OEM Honda Timing Belt
-OEM Honda Balance Shaft Belt (if you’re not going to keep your BS belt off)
-OEM Honda Manual Tensioner conversion (the whole thing can be purchased from importrp.com, they include every part necessary for the conversion for $89.00)
-Spark plugs, Distributor Cap, Distributor Rotor, and Spark plug wires.
-Both Accessory belts (alternator and power steering belts)
-While my motor and tranny is out, I might as well put some fun stuff in there:
-ACT Stage 2 HDSS disc with heavy-duty pressure plate
-Fidanza 9.6 lb flywheel
-Technafit SS Clutch line
-OEM Honda Slave Cylinder
-OEM Honda Axle Seals
-Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
-Crank scraper (from crankscrapers.com)
-Hondata Thermal Intake Manifold Gasket
-With the motor back in the car:
-New Oil and Oil Filter
-New Coolant
-New Tranny Fluid
-This will be all you need, with the exception of the fun stuff, to make your JDM H22 compatible with your 5th gen lude.
-If you have experience in this area please post with corrections or good information and I will edit my post and add the new info.
-In my searching I primarily got my info from one person. I would like to give Keith all the credit for the knowledge that I have condensed and passed along in this thread. I also got a few tidbits from NotoriousSH. Thank you both!
Now for Questions:
-What is with the oil pan swapping thing? I don’t understand the point. Some people say don’t worry about it, then others will recommend it.
-From reading, I’ve gathered that the vacuum lines on the jdm intake manifold are a little different. Is there any truth to this? Those of you that have done this swap, what are your thoughts on this?
-I live in Pennsylvania and I need to be able to pass emissions. I plan on going obd1. How easy is it to pass emissions using my obd2 ecu? Will I need to swap things back and forth to make the obd2 ecu useable for passing emissions?
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