Here's my setup:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1606637

What's an ideal amount of suspension travel for street use? With my current settings, I can see that I have about may 3/4 of an inch travel. When I was lower, I can guess I didn't have much if any at all..

I don't get how people can have any suspension travel with their car slammed to the ground running the same setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Understeer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's my setup:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1606637

What's an ideal amount of suspension travel for street use? With my current settings, I can see that I have about may 3/4 of an inch travel. When I was lower, I can guess I didn't have much if any at all..

I don't get how people can have any suspension travel with their car slammed to the ground running the same setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When I first lowered my car, I used OTS Konis, GCs 400/400 rates, and GC upper mounts on my 00 gsr, and lowered it until the tires were flush. This set the car on the bumpstops, front and back. Basically, if you want to be slammed, you don't have suspension travel. Though, the GC upper mounts gave me just enough shock travel to put the UCA into the fender without damaging the shock from bottoming it.

Now I'm raised back up to a more respectable 2 finger gap, and probably only have 1" or so of shock travel before hitting the GC bumpstops.

 

Cool thanks.

The think the biggest downfall of GC/Koni is the lack of suspension travel. I've only lowered it to get -1.8 camber in the front and there is only 1" of shock travel.

It's either:

Raise height=more suspension travel, but no camber.
Lower height=ride on bumpstops, addtional camber.

To do it right you'll either need to:
- Get 600-1000lb/in springs to keep off bumpstops... but you'll need to revalve and shorten the shocks to run at lowered desired height.
- Buy GC upper mounts and gain 3/4" of travel.

I think buying a adjustable shock body coilover would be the best compromise.

 

by a camber kit to add camber. thats what i did.

have you done the front shock fork trick?

if you only have 1 inch of shock travel at static ride height, then that means that the spring only sits about 2.5 inchs above the top of the shock. (rough guesstamate without knowing your exact weight, and corner weight).

 

Understeer, keep in mind that your limiting factor with any coil-over suspension is the upper control arm hitting the inner fender well (shock tower). It will be the same for any coil-over or sleeved setup. Shock fork mod, or GC upper mounts will help with shock travel, but will also increase your likely-hood of shock tower contact. It will all depend on how much bump-stop you run...

This also means you have to be very careful when choosing your camber kit (if that's the road you take). The sliding ball-joints ones severely reduce clearance because the UCAs are much larger than stock. The sliding-bushing type camber adjusters are probably much better in your case as long as their design allows an increase in negative camber. Most are designed to reduce negative camber, so you better make sure...

Lowering to increase neg. camber is not a win-win situation by any means. More of a compromise.

 

-1.8 camber is good enough for street. I had more, but raised it because I was riding on bumpstops.

I've read all the thread about it, but I don't think I'll do it.

What does that mean if 2.5" above shock?

The integra weighs 2469lbs, not including driver.

Cornerweights I don't plan on doing, I just got an alignment the other day.

 

Gotcha! I don't ever plan on adding a camber kit.

I just want a reasonable ride height (not tucked, not 4x4) either and have a nice handling vehicle that has lots of useable suspension travel.

I think the whole point of this thread was that I am not happy with the amount of suspension travel that I have with the ride height that I'm at (lowered 1.5" from stock height)

 

Okay well mabey this will put your mind at ease then. 1" of free shock compression travel is roughly 1.5" of wheel travel. That means you can hit a 1.5" tall change in pavement height without even contacting the bump stops (thats a huge nasty bump). Also the more bump stop you have, the softer the transition from free-compression to bumpstop-compression will feel.

 

Curious, does rebound adjustment (firmer) reduce the amount of shock travel?

 

No...

 

It just changes the rate at which it extends but not the distance.

 

it means from the end of the shock body (were the piston come out) to the top of the spring.