I finally got at least one side done today, but lack of daylight prevented me from finishing the other side, but here's what I got:

before:


after:

 

yeap looks about right they feel awesome dont they?

 

well, i only have the one side done, hopefully I'll finish the other side and bleed them tomorrow and I'll let you know... sucks only having a couple hours of daylight when I get home from work!

 

hey how hard was it? is it just like the 4th gen accord and i got some brembo blanks. i've heard that the pressed on rotors are a bitc* to take off. how did u do it? any tricks or tips? thanks!!!

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

put some 8 mark bolts threw your old rotors and bolt chain lines on to those bolts and then bolt that too a turbo diesel and let er rip.

 

Okay, next question.


How do I hotwire a bulldozer?

 

Are those stock brakes or wagon brakes?
Man, that lip on your old rotor... I've never seen such a warn rotor LOL.

 

dammmm, looking good man. weekendracer we should meet up sometime this weekend or something man.. i need to start this project asap!

 

Im contemplating organizing a NY meet. Ill keep everyone in touch.

 

I want that brake setup too. I'm thinking it's just not worth the hassle to get a floating rotor design. Wagon rotors are a direct bolt-on. We don't change rotors that often, maybe twice a year at most, and it's not that hard after you've done it a couple times.

 

I also see the "R" caliper goes on the left side.

 

will a v8 dakota do the job?

 

go to a constructions site they usually leave the keys on or in it... dunno how i know that tho.

 

Na, doesnt matter, i already got the ignition box out, just tell me which wires to cross.

 

theres only like 4 cross them all tell it starts or you die.... er i mean get shocked a lil.

 

 

haha umm or put it back and use the key maybe?

im going to corrupt all the posts cuz i cant program the VAFC yet... im sad.. sniff

MISAAAAAAA HEEEEEEEEEEEEEELP

 

4door, those are brembo blanks for the 4th gen wagon, and I did reverse the calipers based on what afterburner said and the fact that this way the bleeder nipple ends up on top where it belongs.

Anyone wondering about getting the rotors off, this was my first time doing this so it was a PITA. I had no access to a slide hammer, so I managed to get one side off by hitting it from behind with a sledge hammer. Not the best way, but it did come off. I was changing bearings anyway, so it didn't matter if i damaged it or not. for the other side, I took the whole knuckle off and removed the rotor, hub and wheel bearing together. you need a press to remove the inner race of the old bearing from the hub anyway, so I had the transmission place next to my job do that as well as separate the other bearing from the hub. Best bet would be to remove the whole knuckle and bring it somewhere with a press that can remove it.

 

Daaaayyuuummm.

 

Does anyone know if the rotors for a 5th gen are pressed on? I have warped rotors, and I was contemplating getting some Brembo blanks myself. Thanks.

 

yes they are pressed on,......

and there is no such thing as warped rotors, there is hower such a thing as not breaking in your pads properly.... dave you showed us this link before, but i didnt save it

 

There is such a thing as warped rotors, but it's pretty rare and often diagnosed wrong. http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

 

Right, I remember that link. I thought I had it, but I can't find it. So what about people getting their rotors turned? If there is no such thing as warped rotors, then why do people do this? My problem is that I have a TON of brake travel before the brakes catch and begin to stop. My pads are OK up front, and the brake shoes in the back are relatively new. When braking at about 70-55 mph, I get a violent shaking. Now granted, I need to have the car aligned (it's been three years at least), but I'm waiting on needing new tires to do that.
As far as the brake travel goes, it doesn't seem to be the master cylinder, although I may be wrong. I had a master cylinder go bad when I had my Civic, and the brake pedal would fall to the floor when stopped. The Accord's pedal doesn't do that, however, like I said, it has a lot of travel before the brakes catch. Is the travel normal? It seems excessive to me?

I was thinking that maybe better rotors and pads will help, especially if the problem with the brake travel isn't the master cylinder.

Thanks for the help

 

Thanks for the link man. It's saved