after 3 months of research and deciding. i'm still at ground zero.

my motor ,MPFI d15b2, is dying on me. floods, headgasget is 2 miles form total failure, burns oil like a bitch, one cyl is almost 40 psi lower than others.

time for a new one but i cant decide on what one.

i want plenty of "torque" i know honda motors are lacking in that area. but something that can easily spin the tires. IT MUST HAVE VTEC!

i will be referee-ing this to get a bar label.

i was also thinking of dohc simply for the power potenial and i've never had a dohc in my life.

my main choices were:

B16
i wanted this motor b/c it's a very popular swap. there more or less easy to find, and there a signifigant improvement to the stock.

B18
same as ^ but more fabricating is the major turnoff.

D16Z6
original choice but i want something more... more bang for your buck.

ZC
again more bang....

B20
wanted this very first. but cant put a "truck" motor in a car

H... F... K... etc....
too much work, too un popular, etc.


i know this is alot but i'm on a limited income and have yet to get a raise . i have over $1k for this and i know that wont buy alot but i'm willing to save.

*** plz dont flame me. this is a "experience" queston kinda thing. just want some input on a noob like me should do for there first swap.

 

b18c..good hp and tq

 

The b16 ef will never lose!

 

I think a B18A would be a good compromise for being on a budget, but it doesn't have VTEC.

 

I really like my z6 swap...it is just a rebuilt z6 with a zex 59300 cam and zex valvesprings with a y8 intake mani and I just burned a b20 swapped hatch that had most of the interior removed by about a length and half at the track and I have full interior in a 91 crx si

 

Why do you want vtec so bad?

 

cuz that stuff is awesome nukka

 

If your goal is to BAR the car, go with a domestic B18B.

It's not that much more fab work or front end weight and you'll like the little bit of extra torque over the B16.

Plus you can always go FI later on when you're sporting that nice BAR sticker in your engine bay.

B16's are hard to BAR; I'm going through this right now and there's a lot of aftermarket crap you have to buy for it to pass it off as a USDM motor. The correct ECU took me a long time to find and IM/EM had to be changed out to CARB-certified aftermarket parts. I'm STILL rigging up the wiring harness... the OBD1 conversion... it never ends!

Save your receipts for the motor, tranny & ECU and hit this list up for help, lotsa good ppl here who have done this. Don't give up on it!

Best of luck w/ your build.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gnar kill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really like my z6 swap...it is just a rebuilt z6 with a zex 59300 cam and zex valvesprings with a y8 intake mani and I just burned a b20 swapped hatch that had most of the interior removed by about a length and half at the track and I have full interior in a 91 crx si</TD></TR></TABLE>

He must have had a beat motor I had a y8 with a 59300 Zex cam as well, and bolt ons, and tuned. The same car was faster with an LS swap.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tmeracz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's not that much more fab work or front end weight and you'll like the little bit of extra torque over the B16.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How is it ANY more fab work than a B16? Maybe I'm missing something? Clue me in, I thought my B18 swap was pretty damned simple!

 

Fab work as in harness/ ECU wiring.

Cuz a driver's side inner fender dent is about it... ;-)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tmeracz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fab work as in harness/ ECU wiring.

Cuz a driver's side inner fender dent is about it... ;-)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I mean, how is the harness and ECU any more difficult with an LS than with a B16? Seems easier, to me.

His disadvantage for a B18 is "more fab work" compared to a B16.

Is the B16 easier to wire or something?

 

No I would say it's more difficult to wire. He might luck out and pick up a domestic B18 that is non-OBD and wouldn't be forced to do the conversion.

Since the B16 was only offered domestically in the Del Sol as an OBD1/2 motor, I have to match the OBD system and ECU accordingly, even on a non-OBD JDM motor.

The physical parts to change are almost the same, minus the headers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tmeracz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No I would say it's more difficult to wire. He might luck out and pick up a domestic B18 that is non-OBD and wouldn't be forced to do the conversion.

Since the B16 was only offered domestically in the Del Sol as an OBD1/2 motor, I have to match the OBD system and ECU accordingly, even on a non-OBD JDM motor.

The physical parts to change are almost the same, minus the headers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I was thinking. B16 has to wire up both the 02s, the VTEC, etc. The B18 is a little easier, if both are OBD0. Its a little more pain in the *** if both have to be converted to OBD1, but it still would be easier with the LS.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ventolin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats what I was thinking. B16 has to wire up both the 02s, the VTEC, etc. The B18 is a little easier, if both are OBD0. Its a little more pain in the *** if both have to be converted to OBD1, but it still would be easier with the LS.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Its not the engine that makes its it harder its the generation.

 

Yup, yup!
Sorry about the confusion there... must be tired after putting in an 18 hour day again.

Non-OBD B18 would be easiest to BAR in CA. Most definitely more wiring to do w/a B16.

B18= Good bang for the buck IMO, if his budget grows then he could change course to a B18C like Wes did & have his VTEC and BAR-legal swap as well.

 

this is my suggestion and wat i would like to do
get a b18a, non-obd, bar that sucker, its cake to swap in did mine for the first time in like 2 days, not too much fabrication at all
the extra torque over the b16 is nice but that vtec kills after 3rd
then bust an ls/v setup with the bar sticker.
it'll be great in a rex.
DO IT!

 

b18c1 gsr you wont look back you can bar it. and wont have to put a vtec head. or ls/vtec but since your in cali stay away from ls/vtec the cops are bad out here. b18c1 all they way just have all the smog equipment hooked up in the right places the right ecu make it as stock as possible and you will be happy.

 

oh yeah whats wrong with the sohc man personally. d16a6 or d16z6 easier swap for the price of a dohc. no engine mounts needed easier and youll have money left over to kick some dohc *** plus they will be amazed. but thats just me plus there a dime a dozen.

 

Could you really legalize a head swap? I didn't know that...
--
Swap topic- Well I would've done a b18 swap in mine, but I went d15b because it was only 300 and I don't crave speed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YasRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you want vtec so bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pee Wee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cuz that stuff is awesome nukka</TD></TR></TABLE>
that had me laughing so hard my eyes are watering.

my contribution....
You can't go wrong with the B16 if you must have VTEC. I'd personally proabaly go with the B18A if going B, or DOHC ZC, if staying D based. Both have good torque, just lack on the top end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my contribution....
You can't go wrong with the B16 if you must have VTEC. I'd personally proabaly go with the B18A if going B, or DOHC ZC, if staying D based. Both have good torque, just lack on the top end.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I would say B18A/B there is no worries there. And if you must have VTEC get VTEC head and VOLIA LS/VTEC. There is no more fabrication with B18 than there is with B16, I'm not 100% why you think that. Also B18A/B can be had very cheaply. I have picked up 2 for $200-300 complete and one that can with tranny for $400 that is hard to beat. You can also put some ITR or CTR pistons in the B18A/B and get add'l compression and power.

Also look around the all motor forum there are some guys making some power with LS's.

 

Heh, the though crossed my mind several times, believe me. Nothing will make me happier than an LS/VTEC w/ ITB's- but it depends on if the car will be your daily hauler or a weekend warrior.

Here's why I wouldn't try to get slick like that in Cali: I personally know of 3 cars that have been stopped and looked over by a special squad in the West Valley. These guys are not your average cops either. They impounded my friend's mini-me swap without thinking twice (this was his pride & joy- lots of hours & $$ in that car) They know what to look for and are up to date on enough BAR codes and regulations to:
a) Impound your car if you act an ***
b) Slap you with a fix-it ticket in violation of enough codes to make you re-certify your BAR cert or c) GET BAR'ed if you aren't already

****, the last time I got stopped the cop was young and savvy. His second comment after the usual **** was- "This car didn't come with rear disk brakes from the factory, did it?"

I kept my head on straight & stonewalled the guy, but remained courteous & polite. I drove the car home with a fix-it ticket for no front plate and a warning to get BAR'ed soon. I've been motivated ever since to get that sticker. My engine compartment is becoming an artwork of stock Honda goodness. Seriously, I don't even want to see those gay silicon hoses or a CAI.

I like my hatch. I've had it since I was a kid like most of you. I don't wanna see it in impound where **** can happen to it (like stolen engines).

So I'm asking nicely... Don't expletive around. It makes life harder for those of us trying to do this legit. If you've swapped, chances are you've already doubled the horsepower and increased your torque over stock by 2/3. Get yourself some CARB legal bolt-ons, tune your suspension and call it a day.

I love the rocket science. I LIVE for the rocket science. But it belongs on race-prepped asphalt, in a track *****, not the street.

OKAY, end of sermon.

Flame away bitches...

 

um... wtf does BAR stand for?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bjorn20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um... wtf does BAR stand for?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its a CA thing. It really must suck...

I live in TN. Two guys in my apartment complex have cars with no exhaust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bjorn20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um... wtf does BAR stand for?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR)

http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/stdhome.asp