Ok so im thinking of possibly doing the integra break swap to take out my old rear drums. My question is this. Do i need to change my master cylinder? What is up with the proportioning valve? Anyother things i should know before going into this project?

thanks

 

I have integra everything susp/brakes, kneck snappin fun, at first I had only rear 93 integ gs it worked fine, now I have the fronts, b.b., m.c., and all orig lines and its the hardest braking I've ever expierenced I did a 100-0 and it felt like hitting a wall it was awsome,next I'm gettin stainless steel lines and drilled and slotted rotors but I don't think they'll help any more, just for looks, it almost exceeds my tires grip, they'll also help with lessening brake fade when everything gets hot

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by father figure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so im thinking of possibly doing the integra break swap to take out my old rear drums. My question is this. Do i need to change my master cylinder? What is up with the proportioning valve? Anyother things i should know before going into this project?

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

i got a rear conversion on my sedan ... off a 93... stick with 90-93 integra non-abs and you will be fine..

but definitely install the prop valve, get the 4040 one or else doing the conversion won't make any difference.

you don't have to change the bb/mc but its a good idea to change them to the integra ones since you are going to bleed the brakes anyway... it will improve pedal feel...

ss lines(i got goodridges) are a good upgrade but not needed... these help improve pedal response time..

replace the trailing arm bushings if they are worn out.. mine were brittle when i got the arms from the dismantlers... i went with the energy suspension urethane ones...

oh, and the only hard part for me was one of the bolts for the e-brake cable behind the gas tank... but other than that, this is pretty much a bolt-on affair...

another thing is, if you are lowered 2 inches or more and have a camber correction kit (i had some washers back there), you might rub because the wheelbase will increase slightly... this can be corrected by rolling or shaving the lip under the fender....

good luck, and air tools are your friend

 

I have a camber kit, what do you mean by rubbing? Oh and what is a proportioning valve? Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by father figure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a camber kit, what do you mean by rubbing? Oh and what is a proportioning valve? Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

by rubbing, i mean that the tire might rub on the fender lip while driving...

and the prop valve is what separates the pressure from the 1 brake pedal to the 4 brakes... its like a "splitter" if you will... rear discs use more pressure than rear drums so its ideal to use the correct prop valve...

its located on the passenger side of the engine bay and its mounted to the right of the strut assembly(if your standing in front of the car)... you'll see a bunch of hardlines going into it...

 

awww cool thanks man you rock, i know what that is. So should i take that off of a 90-93 integra to? Oh and how much were your new poly bushings? Thanks again

 

yea definitely get the prop valve... when you look at it, it will have 4040 engraved on it...

and the bushings i got from summitracing.com