well last week i finished up a customers car and i was in the middle of tuning the car when the clutch decided to stop working, it was in the middle of a pull and then the car just wouldnt shift. well we pull the tranny and see clutch fluid inside of the bell housing and we try to trace where it was coming from and we were all confused. the hydro release bearing seemed to be a little wet around the inner seal. so next i pull the clutch basket off the flywheel and remove the basket/disks and floaters. i take a quick look at the flywheel and it seemed to be as thought there was part of the clutch pad stuck to the flywheel. so next i go and look at the disks and floaters, well they were all stuck together. i had to pry them apart with a screw driver and on each floater was big pieces of the pads. i sent the clutch back to tilton and they tell me that this is caused by the clutch fluid and that we got the clutch too hot and the fluid aided in the situation. they are not helping us out in any way which i am extremely pissed off about, but this is racing and i understand you cant warranty it. but what i do know is that i probably wont be using tilton's in my customers cars becasue tilton wont admit to it being a bad part. they are claiming that there is metal shavings in the clutch fluid, well i drained all the clutch fluid out of the master and ran it through a filter and i didnt see not one damn shaving.


all parts were brand new, installed 100% correct. just for everyone's info, yes there was a pedal stop, and yes all the clearances were within tiltons specs. either me or tom will post up pics later.

but my main question is, has anybody else had this issue with tilton?

 

the hydrolic bearing leak fluid on your clutch, cause it to "slip" then weld it self together ????

**** happens. these are race parts. take it on the chin.

how much new disc and floaters cost ? less than a new twin disc im sure.

was the hyrdo bearing new or used ?

 

I sent my Competition Twin Disc to Chris and they were helpful. Sorry no info here just giving props to Competition

 

if it was mine i would understand, but customers arent too happy when i tell them to buy a $1600+ package and then it fails very pematurely. Now they want $600 plus to fix it all. so you think i as a shop owner should take it on the chin cause i sold my customer on this being the best clutch.

im just venting. its been a long couple weeks,lol.

 

no, you shouldnt be responsible for it. they have a mind, they make the decision to buy or not. ya know.


was the release bearing new or used? and why did you use it? what is wrong with the stock one? ive been using my stock master/slave/throwout on my twindisc for a while now and its working pretty damn good. we even have the stock slave/throwout/master on the hotrod car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

was the release bearing new or used?.</TD></TR></TABLE>

read my first post more carefully, it states all parts were brand new.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and why did you use it? what is wrong with the stock one? .</TD></TR></TABLE>

the reason we used it on this car is beacuse the chassis was originally an automatic, and for the price of the release bearing kit it was cost effective to get this rather then gettting all the stock parts. and not for the fact of the matter being that we have used them before and have never had an issue. i also like the pedal ratio that it offers vs. the stock setup. it gives a much better feeling for disengagement points.

 

I understand where you're coming from. When you sell a customer a product, by your recommendation, and it fails, you feel obligated to take care of the customer. Alot of times the manufacturer doesn't have to deal with a customer face to face and it's very easy to say no, we can't do anything about it. Any reputable business would feel like they should take care of their customer regardless, it couldn't possibly have been the customers fault if they haven't even got the car back from the shop. It's a shitty situation guys. I would find exactly where the fluid came from. If it was a loose fitting or something, then your **** outta luck, but if it was from a defective release bearing then i'd talk to tilton about it a little more, they should definitely take care of it in that situation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. It's a shitty situation guys. I would find exactly where the fluid came from. If it was a loose fitting or something, then your **** outta luck, but if it was from a defective release bearing then i'd talk to tilton about it a little more, they should definitely take care of it in that situation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Why did you guys use the Hydro Bearing? I've had nothing but bad luck with those...I just used a shaved down OEM one and it works MINT.

PS: That's a shitty situation to be in...I've been there, and it sucks...

 

Yeah I went back to a stock set up. I actually like it a lot better too.

 

call tilton, a buddy of mine is having a similar issue and they said send it in and they will get a new one out to him. sounds like there might be an issue there somewhere

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why did you guys use the Hydro Bearing? I've had nothing but bad luck with those...I just used a shaved down OEM one and it works MINT.

PS: That's a shitty situation to be in...I've been there, and it sucks...</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I went back to a stock set up. I actually like it a lot better too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well well well, ya haters!! haha

I think I'm like the only person that hasn't had a problem with this cluch and tilton bearing setup after setting the pedal up...

I would ship the dang thing off to them and have them look at it, I can't see why it would just lock up like that if everything was done right..

 

I know that I had some issues with getting my car in gear, especially in 1st gear. I sent some pics of my t/o bearing to Tilton and they called me back right away and sent me a RMA number to return the bearing to get the sealed replaced.

I am not sure on your problem man, but I know for sure that when I talked to them, they have been extremely helpful. Hope things work out ok.

 

I have a tilton 3 disc carbon carbon. I thought about going to the hydro release bearing but glad I didn't do it.
I still use the stock slave setup on the clutch with no issues at all. It is important to use the right size throwout bearing so it doesn't catch on the clutch fingers. I made the mistake of using the wrong sized bearing and the clutch stuck all the time. Go back to stock and hope the fluid didn't cause too much damage to the disks. You can only try to make it work since they are not helping you out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cul8tr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a tilton 3 disc carbon carbon.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, how much power are making? And how much did you pay?

 

I didn't think Tilton made a 3 disc carbon for Hondas??

 

but I think they have 3 floaters...lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's a shitty situation guys. I would find exactly where the fluid came from. If it was a loose fitting or something, then your **** outta luck, but if it was from a defective release bearing then i'd talk to tilton about it a little more, they should definitely take care of it in that situation</TD></TR></TABLE>