ok here we go. to start off i have searched and i have read every link in the FAQ section on how to wire mpfi. the car im doing this swap ion is a 1991 civic std. and im swapping in a 90-91 ls with dual valve springs and ti retainers with fresh valve seals (if that matters)

now im hoping when i start ranting these directions i have that someone will understand me...

here's what ive done:

-ran all the injector wires and wired the resistor box. all is well in this section.

-i reversed the polarity on the tps sensor as is stated in the write-up (i then threw a code 7 and returned the polarity back to normal-still throwing a code). then i swapped out that throttle body to a known good one and im STILL throwing the code.

-the next problem im having is with the TDC/CRANK/Cyl. Sensor (code 8). i ran the 2 wires from the ECU pins c1 and c2 to the blue/yellow wire and blue/green wire ( ran like **** and threw a code so i switched the wires-still no luck).

-yes more problems. im now throwing a CEL for code 9 which is number 1 cyl. position. im aware all of these are sensors contained inside the distributor; its new so thats PROBABLY not the problem.

finally on a less important note. im throwing a eacv/iacv code. im not sure on the wire color on this, theres 2 identical plugs on the harness with different colored wires.

any help is more than appreciated. im not retarded as far as i know, and i know im more than capable of performing this type of conversion. is there something im over-looking?

tia.

Modified by 5litereater at 11:56 AM 4/19/2006


Modified by 5litereater at 7:09 PM 4/22/2006

 

those direction's suck i had the same problems so i just went to the yard and got a full mpfi harness i mean the full harness and swapeed it that way .... way easier

 

that doesnt make sense because from my understanding the si/hf and the dx/std. harnesses are pinned differently. oh and im using a harness from a 90 DA which still shouldnt make a difference. all the essentials are the same...

help?

 

Hes saying he used the whole car harness, thats not ezr in my opinoin. The eacv wires are blue/black and blk/yel

Ryan

 

i see...and no that doesnt sound easier. thanks for the wire colors.

havent touched the thing since last night so i dont have any updates, but im still definately open to ANY suggestions. no comments are stupid at this point (within reason)...

 

bump. someone. anyone. daily driver...

 

something i didnt mention is how it pphysically runs. it spits and sputter and at times will just die on its own. cam timing is dead on and ignition timing is a hair advanced (it doesnt seem that the problem is mild).

coming out of the exhaust is black, fuel-scented water. it seems to be spitting a good bit of it out too.

i got rid of code 9. i dont seem to be throwing any of the distributor codes either, for the time being. i can fluctuate the gas pedal too and it seems to just wanna die even more. spark plugs are blackish but im assuming thats just from an overwhelmingly rich mixture due to the spark NOT being thrown at the correct time in the combustion process.

im really at wits end. any help, again, is more than appreciated.

 

Basic but did you try to rotate the dizzy on the cam, maybe the dizzy is off 180 degrees.
Some hondas that is possible to do and others it isn't.

My 2 cents

 

nah. my distributor can only go on one way. thanks for the input, though.

anyone else? this is a routine conversion...isnt there anybody whos run into this problme or something similar??

 

bump? maybe?

 

I'd triple check your wiring. even though you make yourself out to be a wiring god ( j/k). sometimes we make mistakes. Just check it over with a fine comb. if everything turns out to be fine. Put a known good ECU in.

-Shane

 

8,9 are both distributor codes. You might just have a totally faulty distributor.. It happens. Return it to where you got it for another one. Throwing a tps code means you probably have something wrong in the reference voltage line. Have you tested the tps signal at your ecu? It should be close to 0 V at no throttle and close to 5V at full throttle.

 

http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/tps

thats a nice link

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd triple check your wiring. even though you make yourself out to be a wiring god ( j/k). sometimes we make mistakes. Just check it over with a fine comb. if everything turns out to be fine. Put a known good ECU in.

-Shane
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think if i look my wiring over againim gonna go crazy haha...

i will definately check it again. it seems things are only getting worse. im getting no power to my ecu now (no LED on startup, no flashing, nothing). however it still cranks over. i checked my thermostat ground and all other grounds and theyre fine. i checked my fusebox under the hood and i have no blown fuses. my fuel pump isnt priming but im assuming thats due to lack of power to the ecu? im gonna check themain relay tongiht.

and my tps resistance is within spec as is voltage. ill double check though.

thanks for the help everyone.

 

i hate bumping but im going to. more suggestions are alwayas welcome

 

did u jump c1 and c2 with b10 and b12 when you added those wires?

 

yes i ran the orange and white wires from c1 and c2 on the harness side to the b10 and b12 on the ecu plug side. still no dice.

and im still not getting power to the ecu. main relay?

 

so life just sucks.

after tearing my harness down to nothing and putting it all back together i cant seem to figure out a damn thing.

heres the new list of problems.

-car doesnt crank/start. fuel pump doesnt prime (swapped with new relay-no luck)
-when i pull my key OUT of the ignition, my temp gauge goes all the way up to hot (even if neither the coolant temp. sensor and the coolant fan sensor are unplugged). also, when the key is pulled out, i still have constant power to my ecu. my CEL, battery, and oil light constantly stay lit (but are dim). i have no power to my radio (fuse is fine) and no power at all to my headlights.

it seems i have a short somewhere btu i cant even being to think of the first place to look. none of these things seem to run in series to each other so i dont understand how a short in one circuit could slowly work its way through the whole harness...

 

take a multimeter and test your grounds. the one on the thermostat housing especially

 

11.98v from the positive batt. term. to thermo ground.
9v from pos. batt. term. to valve cover
0v from " " " to where valve cover ground grounds to raditor support.

this is so weird...when i hit my brakes it sends signal to the main relay and then it clicks but still no fuel pressure.

my car is possessed

 

Check a ground from your tranny to frame. I had a b16 swap that wouldn't start until I put this ground in then started right up. Ground under or by battery and then to anywhere on the tranny. This should help with the no crank.
Maybe. It worked for me.

2 cents

 

i have that ground connected .

this wiring thing is getting old.

help?

 

Hey haha not trying to say you didn't understand him but I too had a no start with possessed symptoms on one of my cars.

It turned out to be the the ground from the TRANNY to the FRAME to the BATTERY. How they had it hooked up in my car was TRANNY to the BATTERY. And I put another wire in there and the thing ran fine!!

Just for clarification purposes did I rewrite this

 

yeah it comes from the clutch cable bracket to underneath the battery to the negative battery terminal. i mean isuppose i can check that its a solid ground again but i sanded the grounding location to bare metal before connecting it.

this car hates me...

 

ok thats exactly what i meant