if all goes well in the next couple days, ill be gettin some new rims and some new tires, some new azenis

i want to have my toe and alingment done and im goin to be getting a front camber kit and doin the washer trick for the rear


i was hoping you guys could share some good settings for a street R
im gonna be running koni Yellows on some tein s tech springs for now
then im wanna get some custom rate ground controls in a little while

thanks ahead of time for any help

 

I've got my toe & camber all set @ zero. Then again I don't autocross either. I'm more just a 1320 guy & thats about all the spirited driving I do.

 

my setting:
F: -3 camber, 0 toe
R: -2 camber, 1 toe out

 

Any one have a road race/ HPDE set up on their R i would like to see what your running?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rene M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any one have a road race/ HPDE set up on their R i would like to see what your running? </TD></TR></TABLE>
i would too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01-0720 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if all goes well in the next couple days, ill be gettin some new rims and some new tires, some new azenis</TD></TR></TABLE>
rims??

 

for a quick second, i thought the title said camel toe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeRaceRx1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for a quick second, i thought the title said camel toe. </TD></TR></TABLE>Uh, no.

 

hahaha, i thought i was the only one.

 

Front:
-1 to -2.5 Degrees Camber
1/32 to 1/16 toe out

Rear:
-0.5 Degrees Camber
0 to 1/16th toe in

That is a conservative range that will be decent for street driving, autocross, and track events.


Clayton @ King posting under his GF's screen name becuase he is teh Team LAzy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic_Sista &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Front:
-1 to -2.5 Degrees Camber
1/32 to 1/16 toe out

Rear:
-0.5 Degrees Camber
0 to 1/16th toe in

That is a conservative range that will be decent for street driving, autocross, and track events.


Clayton @ King posting under his GF's screen name becuase he is teh Team LAzy</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anyone have any thoughts on these settings? Also, how would 0 toe effect handling while autocrossing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RGoose18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Anyone have any thoughts on these settings? Also, how would 0 toe effect handling while autocrossing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Toe in in the rear makes track braking more stable. I run 0 and it's fine for me

Toe out in the front makes turn in, well, better. Less understeer. I run a ton of toe out but will probably back it off to 1/8th inch toe out front (rather than 1/4")

In general, more camber will give you more stick in corners, and less straight-line stick. So, more camber in front will get your less understeer at the expense of braking (a little) and tire wear, up to maybe 3 degrees at which point most tires/cars will see diminishing returns.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frozenb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my setting:
F: -3 camber, 0 toe
R: -2 camber, 1 toe out</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, If you ever lift throttle that's going to be more than interesting.

My own car is -2.5 Front, -1.5 Rear. Zero toe on the front and slight toe <u>in</u> on the rear.

The reason it's slight toe in at the rear is to help w/directional stability at very high speeds, and to help negate the toe-out that occurs when going into threshold braking from very high speeds.

It's a real handful when you have to go into full stop mode from up around 140.

If I were autocrossing, I would go with more camber. If I were autocrossing, I would go with zero toe in the rear and slight toe out in the front.

To some extent, this is going to be a matter of opinion. People who've driven the ITR for some time know what kind of dynamics they want, and their own personal use and driving style will cause them to vary settings between one driver and another.

 

F: -2,8 camber, -2 toe
R: -2,5 camber, -1 toe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rene M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any one have a road race/ HPDE set up on their R i would like to see what your running? </TD></TR></TABLE>

-2.3 front camber
0 toe front

-1.7 rear camber
0 toe rear

JIC magic 10k front/12k rear adjustables
Mugen front strut tower bar
stock front sway bar
Mugen 26mm rear sway bar
full roll cage w/solid bar across mid-towers in rear (to replace jdm rear tower bar that was there before the cage).

Hope that helps Rene. I saw your post in RR, but didn't have my specs with me.

 

-1.98 R -1.91 L Front Camber

0 Front Toe

-1.59 R -1.87 L Rear Camber

0.07 R 0.09 (practically 0) Rear camel Toe.

Koni Yellows, Ground Controls 400lbs/in Front, 500 lbs/in rear. 23mm OEM rear anti-roll bar. No camber kits, not corner balanced (would really like to be) but as level as I can get the car with rulers and nakid eye. HPDE setup.

 

In your opinion what would be the best specs for a mainly street although sometimes auto-x'ed ITR?? Thx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BudMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-2.3 front camber
0 toe front

-1.7 rear camber
0 toe rear

JIC magic 10k front/12k rear adjustables
Mugen front strut tower bar
stock front sway bar
Mugen 26mm rear sway bar
full roll cage w/solid bar across mid-towers in rear (to replace jdm rear tower bar that was there before the cage).

Hope that helps Rene. I saw your post in RR, but didn't have my specs with me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I went this weekend with nothing but what i got from RJ and did well. I pissed off quite a few Z06 owners and hounded the hell out of a pair of speck Miata's . I got bumped to the 3/4 run group because i was scaring the 1/2 rookies ( i was there to work on my NASA Lic and have to go through the numbers to do it 1-2-3-4- i was on 1 and my first time with NASA as a driver).
They had 4 guys going for their lic that day and wanted some one to work with them on attacks and high pressure from the rear.
My instructor was a 4 time national champ and rocked even though i got heat for my auto x style i was still fast but not as smooth as i would like.
My last settings with the R were :
FT --- 1.8 - camber
Rear---1.5-
0 toe on both front and rear.
I changed it a bunch since i ran with two run groups 1-2/3-4 at the end of the weekend i logged more than 138 miles on the track in two days..

My r is stock more or less, i have camber control arms front and rear,01 itr cams,and a jdm 4-1 " the real one" and i have the exhaust open to 2.5 in but other than that i am stock right down to my 1k old shocks.

I lost an ac belt for some reason? it was the only non Honda belt on there " go figure" ..

 

Good job Rene. Keep us posted on your license process. I think it's always good for the noobs to read. It makes it less intimidating.

I know working with Batoutahell on my license last year & the beginning of this year has made it much easier since he already went through the process.

 

which one of these whould be good for a street car, no track time, just some spirted back road driving

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01-0720 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which one of these whould be good for a street car, no track time, just some spirted back road driving</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stick with stock specs. You shouldn't be driving aggressively enough on the street for it to make a difference. Aggressive settings can burn through tires quick.

 

so will the alignment shop i got know my oem specs

im just getting some koni yellows, and using my tein stechs for now, but will getting some custom rate ground controls soon

and a front camber kit also

so just oem spec front and rear toe and alingment, and what ever amount of camber i need to be straght?

 

They have all the "OEM" specs in the computer, for the most part toe is usually 0 and with those crappy S-tech springs they'll probably need to do a little camber adjustment to get it "within spec" if it lowers enough to bring the camber out of spec.

 

not sure why you call them crappy, they ride very nice, and lower the car to a nice height and were a 100 dollars, whats crappy about that,

 

For the street the best for me is

F: -2 camber, -1 toe
R: -1 camber, 0 toe

the car results neutral, I would not never run with "toe in" on a FF

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They have all the "OEM" specs in the computer, for the most part toe is usually 0 and with those crappy S-tech springs they'll probably need to do a little camber adjustment to get it "within spec" if it lowers enough to bring the camber out of spec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most of us wouldn't mind a little extra camber, up to around 2.5 degrees on the front.

The real problem is that when you lower the car you just can't get a cheap alignment because the total thrust is going to be off. Backyard mechanics and $70 alignment shops just cannot get it right so that you feel comfortable.

The faster you get, the worse it gets....until you find yourself slowing down because the car just feels unsafe at speed.