Ok my freind has a ls but it seems like the head was warp after he did a head gasket change so now he has gotten a gsr head to do ls vtec, however after completing it. Runs good no oil leaks from the valve cover however on the right side where the timing belt is where the block meets the head there is oil coming out not much but a little, we let the engine run but oil doesn't come out. When we take the car for a ride and then come open the hood it leaks from where the head meets the block and it's oil no coolant...we wipe it clean again and take it for a ride and come back and it leaks again what can this be? warp head? loose head stud? the gasket is new too..any help

 

might have to resurface your head

 

yes we torque them to specs, what i don't get is why is oil coming out?

 

head is warped. get it milled and use a thicker head gasket.

 

same difference

 

just got everything put together, ok now I has a similar problem it is leaking from a different spot, can it be my head gasket? But the head gasket is new? I heard about people using cooper spray on a head gasket to make thicker to seal.. will this work for my situation

 

use a dab of honda bond around the oil passages on the gasket mating surface. and make sure when you unbolt your head, you do it in the proper sequence, you can warp your head when you untorque as well as torqing it if not done properly. also.. a few common problems are:

the oil passages do not line up perfectly, take it to a reputable machine shop and have them chamfer the oil holes like so


if you didnt get the ls vtec kit, and want to reuse the OEM dowels, you have to machine the dowel ports like so

not that great of a pic, but the big hole is the one that needs to be machined.

another problem that might be happening is the head might not be seating all the way, the dowel pins need to be machined (shortened) along with the head. if you got the head from a junkyard or someplace where you dont know the service history, it could have already been machined. i would take .030-.050" off of the dowel pins.

maybe it is just stretched headbolts? either way, i would get ARP studs. ARP is A MUST!!! (by my standards anyways)

if you have any questions you can email me (my PM system doesnt work)

gl
-nate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skylinedo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one more thing, there was this one tool my friend has. you would use it w/ a straight edge to measure how badly your head was warped to determine if you would need to re-mill or not. forget what that tool's called</TD></TR></TABLE>

Verneer calipers?

Take your head and get it milled flat. You also need to find the proper torque/untorqing sequence. Did you happen to check your cam seals on the motor? I've seen leaky cam seals look like a head gasket leak before.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skylinedo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one more thing, there was this one tool my friend has. you would use it w/ a straight edge to measure how badly your head was warped to determine if you would need to re-mill or not. forget what that tool's called</TD></TR></TABLE>

feeler gauges

 

yeah its not good to use ur stock headbolt because it might be stretched..id get ARP like the guy above said

 

check to see if its like from your dizzy just leakin down, or it might be valve cover gasket,

if your already not 100% positive its the head gasket
hope this helps

 

Check the cam seals that are on the cams on the last cam cap, sometimes they dont like to sit down in there properly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the cam seals that are on the cams on the last cam cap, sometimes they dont like to sit down in there properly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
cam seals were always my downfall....

pull the head....get a precision straight edge and user feeler gauges along the head to determine if it is warped....then have it milled...get a slighty bigger gasket...and call it a day...

i use copper spray on all my builds on the hg...ive reu-sed hg's a few times w/ that trick also

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
cam seals were always my downfall....

pull the head....get a precision straight edge and user feeler gauges along the head to determine if it is warped....then have it milled...get a slighty bigger gasket...and call it a day...

i use copper spray on all my builds on the hg...ive reu-sed hg's a few times w/ that trick also </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive reused headgaskets with no copper spray with no problems . Ofcourse then there was the nissan which I used a brand new gasket (which didnt seal) and I had to go back and use the copper spray.....so I use it now.....so there is good advice in this.