how to: itr tranny rebuild and upgrade
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From: Atlantis
how to: itr tranny rebuild and upgrade
I'm making this thread because I've done this so many times in the past and using other people's write-ups online + the helms has helped me.
BUT I always find myself wondering why people don't post certain things, and realized the only way to have a 'how to' that suits me is to do one myself. I think the majority of enthusiasts don't have readily available access to a lift or air tools, so some of my write-up is specifically for us.
In this thread I will attempt to show how to remove, rebuild, and reinstall an itr transmission. I will be including as much detail as possible, and all torque specs as well. In this instance, I'm freshening up the tranny with some upgrades: ATS close ratio 1,3/4/5 gears, syncro's (as I had a third gear grind), and possibly anything else that needs to be replaced (bearings, etc). This usdm itr tranny has previously been modded with the addition of an ATS 4.9 final drive and ATS metal lsd.
*Please don't freak out - YES I'm going to use a close ratio gearset with the 4.9 final drive. Yes, my top speed will be 128mph on 245/50/15's. And no, it's not a concern for me because it's mostly an autox vehicle.*
The start of the story is when I was just driving along in 5th gear cruising on the hwy after completing exhaust work that would get me dB legal for the autox the next day. The rpm's shot up for no reason and the car started to slow down. I figured the tranny just popped out of 5th gear or something, so I tried to put it back in, but it wouldn't go. Now 4th! Nope. 3rd? Unh-uh.
So after almost getting rearended 8 times, I coast the car with the hazards on to the emergency lane and have it towed. I suspected clutch failure due to the symptoms.
I have since removed the tranny and found all of the splines wallowed out on the clutch disc, so that will be replaced. I have pics and will post them up asap along with the write-up, so stay tuned.
BUT I always find myself wondering why people don't post certain things, and realized the only way to have a 'how to' that suits me is to do one myself. I think the majority of enthusiasts don't have readily available access to a lift or air tools, so some of my write-up is specifically for us.
In this thread I will attempt to show how to remove, rebuild, and reinstall an itr transmission. I will be including as much detail as possible, and all torque specs as well. In this instance, I'm freshening up the tranny with some upgrades: ATS close ratio 1,3/4/5 gears, syncro's (as I had a third gear grind), and possibly anything else that needs to be replaced (bearings, etc). This usdm itr tranny has previously been modded with the addition of an ATS 4.9 final drive and ATS metal lsd.
*Please don't freak out - YES I'm going to use a close ratio gearset with the 4.9 final drive. Yes, my top speed will be 128mph on 245/50/15's. And no, it's not a concern for me because it's mostly an autox vehicle.*
The start of the story is when I was just driving along in 5th gear cruising on the hwy after completing exhaust work that would get me dB legal for the autox the next day. The rpm's shot up for no reason and the car started to slow down. I figured the tranny just popped out of 5th gear or something, so I tried to put it back in, but it wouldn't go. Now 4th! Nope. 3rd? Unh-uh.
So after almost getting rearended 8 times, I coast the car with the hazards on to the emergency lane and have it towed. I suspected clutch failure due to the symptoms.
I have since removed the tranny and found all of the splines wallowed out on the clutch disc, so that will be replaced. I have pics and will post them up asap along with the write-up, so stay tuned.
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From: Atlantis
Re: how to: itr tranny rebuild and upgrade (Black R)
How To prep work:
Park the car on a level surface. Put chocks under the rear wheels and set the ebrake nice and tight. Break the lug nuts loose on both front wheels. Just a 1/2 turn or so so they will come off easily once they are in the air. Jack the front of the car up as high as you can get it, so you'll have plenty of room for the work involved. I like to jack the front of the car up by the front tow hooks because that makes it easy to put the jackstands under the forward jacking points in the next step. I don't like to jack up under the front jacking point because I'm worried this may crack the welds on a jdm front end equipped vehicle.....
Now remove the front wheels and put them out of they way.
Next, you'll need to pop the hood and disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Make sure you have your alarm and radio codes if necessary. Remove the factory or aftermarket front upper strut tower bar. Now remove the intake elbow and box/ air filter if you have them. I have toda itb's, so I get to skip this step.
Modified by Black R at 3:26 AM 4/22/2006
Park the car on a level surface. Put chocks under the rear wheels and set the ebrake nice and tight. Break the lug nuts loose on both front wheels. Just a 1/2 turn or so so they will come off easily once they are in the air. Jack the front of the car up as high as you can get it, so you'll have plenty of room for the work involved. I like to jack the front of the car up by the front tow hooks because that makes it easy to put the jackstands under the forward jacking points in the next step. I don't like to jack up under the front jacking point because I'm worried this may crack the welds on a jdm front end equipped vehicle.....
Now remove the front wheels and put them out of they way.
Next, you'll need to pop the hood and disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Make sure you have your alarm and radio codes if necessary. Remove the factory or aftermarket front upper strut tower bar. Now remove the intake elbow and box/ air filter if you have them. I have toda itb's, so I get to skip this step.
Modified by Black R at 3:26 AM 4/22/2006
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From: Atlantis
Re: how to: itr tranny rebuild and upgrade (Black R)
How to (Continued):
(*I always place nuts/ bolts in order somewhere of removal from left to right along with the parts removed so I know which is which when I reinstall. Optionally, you can use clear tape and tape them to the parts you removed with them.)
Now I have JimFab traction bars on my car (modifed with an integrated skidplate), so this is an extra tedious step in the process..... I unbolt from the front lca's and from the front crossmember area. Some other traction bars don't bolt up the same, so you may have an easier time than I.
Next step is to drain the tranny fluid while you're down there. Put the drain plug back in the tranny so you don't lose it!
I always use a new crush washer - but some people re-use it... 
I have a hytech header and it fits quite snug near some bolts that will need to be removed. I will need to remove it in sections to get the room I need to work those bolts out. So it's a good time to unbolt the header from the cat (or resonated test-pipe in my case). I will also undo the bolts that hold the header sections together. If you don't have an aftermarket header, or your header has enough room, you may be able to skip this step and save some considerable time. I also disconnect the primary o2 sensor at the clip and leave the sensor in the bung on the header. While I'm under the car, I also unbolt the shifter from the linkage and drop the shift rod down. This is easier than trying to wrestle with the bitch-pin under the car (which we'll deal with later).
Now it's time to go back up top and remove the radiator fan. I'm using a slim fan in front of the header for clearance, but the process is the same - just unbolt and pull it up and out. Make sure you unplug it first! Then set it to the side. This gives me enough room to undo the nuts and bolts holding the header on. Then I drop the header down and wiggle it to get the clearance I need. Since I have already separated the secondaries and collector of the header, I just kind of let it hang down and am able to get to the bolts on the tranny to block brace. We'll get back to that later.
Modified by Black R at 3:24 AM 4/22/2006
(*I always place nuts/ bolts in order somewhere of removal from left to right along with the parts removed so I know which is which when I reinstall. Optionally, you can use clear tape and tape them to the parts you removed with them.)
Now I have JimFab traction bars on my car (modifed with an integrated skidplate), so this is an extra tedious step in the process..... I unbolt from the front lca's and from the front crossmember area. Some other traction bars don't bolt up the same, so you may have an easier time than I.
Next step is to drain the tranny fluid while you're down there. Put the drain plug back in the tranny so you don't lose it!
I always use a new crush washer - but some people re-use it... I have a hytech header and it fits quite snug near some bolts that will need to be removed. I will need to remove it in sections to get the room I need to work those bolts out. So it's a good time to unbolt the header from the cat (or resonated test-pipe in my case). I will also undo the bolts that hold the header sections together. If you don't have an aftermarket header, or your header has enough room, you may be able to skip this step and save some considerable time. I also disconnect the primary o2 sensor at the clip and leave the sensor in the bung on the header. While I'm under the car, I also unbolt the shifter from the linkage and drop the shift rod down. This is easier than trying to wrestle with the bitch-pin under the car (which we'll deal with later).
Now it's time to go back up top and remove the radiator fan. I'm using a slim fan in front of the header for clearance, but the process is the same - just unbolt and pull it up and out. Make sure you unplug it first! Then set it to the side. This gives me enough room to undo the nuts and bolts holding the header on. Then I drop the header down and wiggle it to get the clearance I need. Since I have already separated the secondaries and collector of the header, I just kind of let it hang down and am able to get to the bolts on the tranny to block brace. We'll get back to that later.
Modified by Black R at 3:24 AM 4/22/2006
Thread Starter
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From: Atlantis
Re: how to: itr tranny rebuild and upgrade (walker111)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should do a diff rebuild while youre in there!! Hint Hint
<who will be doing a diff rebuild write up shortly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm considering it... but mine is in such good shape, and funds are limited.....
<who will be doing a diff rebuild write up shortly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm considering it... but mine is in such good shape, and funds are limited.....
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From: Atlantis
Re: how to: itr tranny rebuild and upgrade (Black R)
How to (Continued):
Next, disconnect the plugs to the VSS and backup sensor. That's pretty easy as it's just some plastic clips.
Then unbolt the clutch slave cylinder and pull it out gently. *DO NOT PRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL AGAIN UNTIL THE TRANNY HAS BEEN FULLY INSTALLED BACK ON THE CAR WITH THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER BACK ON!* If you do, it will pop out and you'll have to bleed it, etc - no fun! I take great care not to bend the clutch slave hard lines, and I move it up and out of the way of the tranny - over near the passenger side headlight housing area..... zip tie it there if needed.
Now unbolt the ground to chassis on the tranny housing.
Next we're going to undo the cotter pins and 17mm castle nuts on the lower ball joints. Now I like to use a pickle fork and put it next to/ inboard of (NOT ON) the lower ball joint. I leave the handle of it projecting out towards the front of the car. Then I put my breaker bar (3" long steel pipe) over then handle and stand on it... it'll make a loud POP and the lca drops from the lower ball joint. Do both sides the same way. Then lift the Hubs up and out of their place on the lca balljoint area and wiggle them out. It helps to have a buddy or bunjee cords to pull them outwards a bit. DO NOT separate the joints of the axle accidentally! While there is some room there, use a big flathead screwdriver or prybar and GENTLY pop the axle out of the tranny. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE SEALS ON THE TRANSMISSION TO AXLE AREA!
*NOTE: on the driver's side, you will need to undo the three 17mm bolts holding the intermediate shaft to the motor. Then use the prybar method to separate the intermediate shaft from the tranny. Once removed from the tranny, you can let these hang and bunjee them out of the way. I wrap them with a shop towel to avoid any dust/ dirt getting on them.
Next, is just a series of bolts. I'm going by memory right now, but it's still pretty fresh in my mind: remove the two 14mm holding the starter on (one short, and one long). Then pull the starter out and up. You should zip tie it or bunjee cord it up and out of the way. Next is three more 17mm bolts on the top and front of the tranny towards the passenger side. I basically break each bolt 1/2 a turn, then go to the next one. Once they're all broken loose, I work my way around removing them. Now is the underside. There is a series of 17mm holding the underside of the tranny from the engine side and through the tranny to block support as well. There are also some 12mm holding this brace, and another 17mm higher up on the firewall side, near the two 19mm bolts going through the big rear motor mount T brace and into the tranny. Remove all of these and set them aside in order.
Now it's just the tranny mount that's left to undo. I break each of the 19mm 1/2 a turn and then put a floor jack under the tranny with a block of wood to cushion it. Then I finish undoing the tranny mount bolt first, then the two nuts.
Once this is done, it's time to drop the tranny. It's hard to explain, but you lower the floor jack a bit and the motor and tranny combo will try to tilt a bit. Make sure the tranny is clearing the mount bracket and the starter as you lower it. You may need to make some minute adjustments here... Now you are going to "wiggle" the tranny off the motor. This can be difficult sometimes, and is easiest with two people. You are basically trying to separate the tranny by pulling it towards the passenger side of the car, but lowering it enough to clear the frame rail in the engine bay. Just wiggle up/ down, left/ right - all the while pulling it towards the passenger side. Some trannies wiggle right off, and some take serious effort. Mine was very hard to do this time - but that is because the splines of the clutch were wrecked and holding onto the input shaft on the tranny.
Once you see the case start to split from the motor, you can have a buddy put his hand through the tranny case and hold onto the starter hole. Keep wiggling and it'll slide off a bit more and try to drop suddenly. Be prepared with the floor jack and wood. I like to leave a big flat sheet of plywood on the floor so the case doesn't drop accidentally and crack on the concrete. Now slowly lower the floor jack and then gently rock the tranny off the floor jack. It'll now sit on the floor and you can slide it out from under the car.
You are almost halfway there now!
Next, disconnect the plugs to the VSS and backup sensor. That's pretty easy as it's just some plastic clips.
Then unbolt the clutch slave cylinder and pull it out gently. *DO NOT PRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL AGAIN UNTIL THE TRANNY HAS BEEN FULLY INSTALLED BACK ON THE CAR WITH THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER BACK ON!* If you do, it will pop out and you'll have to bleed it, etc - no fun! I take great care not to bend the clutch slave hard lines, and I move it up and out of the way of the tranny - over near the passenger side headlight housing area..... zip tie it there if needed.
Now unbolt the ground to chassis on the tranny housing.
Next we're going to undo the cotter pins and 17mm castle nuts on the lower ball joints. Now I like to use a pickle fork and put it next to/ inboard of (NOT ON) the lower ball joint. I leave the handle of it projecting out towards the front of the car. Then I put my breaker bar (3" long steel pipe) over then handle and stand on it... it'll make a loud POP and the lca drops from the lower ball joint.
Do both sides the same way. Then lift the Hubs up and out of their place on the lca balljoint area and wiggle them out. It helps to have a buddy or bunjee cords to pull them outwards a bit. DO NOT separate the joints of the axle accidentally! While there is some room there, use a big flathead screwdriver or prybar and GENTLY pop the axle out of the tranny. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE SEALS ON THE TRANSMISSION TO AXLE AREA! *NOTE: on the driver's side, you will need to undo the three 17mm bolts holding the intermediate shaft to the motor. Then use the prybar method to separate the intermediate shaft from the tranny. Once removed from the tranny, you can let these hang and bunjee them out of the way. I wrap them with a shop towel to avoid any dust/ dirt getting on them.
Next, is just a series of bolts. I'm going by memory right now, but it's still pretty fresh in my mind: remove the two 14mm holding the starter on (one short, and one long). Then pull the starter out and up. You should zip tie it or bunjee cord it up and out of the way. Next is three more 17mm bolts on the top and front of the tranny towards the passenger side. I basically break each bolt 1/2 a turn, then go to the next one. Once they're all broken loose, I work my way around removing them. Now is the underside. There is a series of 17mm holding the underside of the tranny from the engine side and through the tranny to block support as well. There are also some 12mm holding this brace, and another 17mm higher up on the firewall side, near the two 19mm bolts going through the big rear motor mount T brace and into the tranny. Remove all of these and set them aside in order.
Now it's just the tranny mount that's left to undo. I break each of the 19mm 1/2 a turn and then put a floor jack under the tranny with a block of wood to cushion it. Then I finish undoing the tranny mount bolt first, then the two nuts.
Once this is done, it's time to drop the tranny. It's hard to explain, but you lower the floor jack a bit and the motor and tranny combo will try to tilt a bit. Make sure the tranny is clearing the mount bracket and the starter as you lower it. You may need to make some minute adjustments here... Now you are going to "wiggle" the tranny off the motor. This can be difficult sometimes, and is easiest with two people. You are basically trying to separate the tranny by pulling it towards the passenger side of the car, but lowering it enough to clear the frame rail in the engine bay. Just wiggle up/ down, left/ right - all the while pulling it towards the passenger side. Some trannies wiggle right off, and some take serious effort. Mine was very hard to do this time - but that is because the splines of the clutch were wrecked and holding onto the input shaft on the tranny.
Once you see the case start to split from the motor, you can have a buddy put his hand through the tranny case and hold onto the starter hole. Keep wiggling and it'll slide off a bit more and try to drop suddenly. Be prepared with the floor jack and wood. I like to leave a big flat sheet of plywood on the floor so the case doesn't drop accidentally and crack on the concrete. Now slowly lower the floor jack and then gently rock the tranny off the floor jack. It'll now sit on the floor and you can slide it out from under the car.
You are almost halfway there now!
Thread Starter
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From: Atlantis
Re: how to: itr tranny rebuild and upgrade (walker111)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Lucky dog! I just spoke with ATS and they said for new packs it 250+shipping. I will begin tearing down the car tonight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you going with the D20?
Lucky dog! I just spoke with ATS and they said for new packs it 250+shipping. I will begin tearing down the car tonight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you going with the D20?
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From: Atlantis
Re: how to: itr tranny rebuild and upgrade (Black R)
How to (Continued):
Now is the time to look at the clutch and flywheel and examine them.
You will remove the 6 (or sometimes 9) 12pt bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel in a criss-cross star pattern to avoid warping the plate. Break them 1/2 turn then work your way around loosening turn by turn until they're free.
Next is to remove the flywheel. It is 8 12pt bolts with very thin heads. Use a screwdriver through one of the holes in the flywheel to brace it while you unbolt them (they are 80ft-lb going on, and often very difficult to remove). Take great care to NOT strip them!
Now is a good time to resurface the flywheel as well.
If you are upgrading, installation is in the reverse order of removal, but with some specific torque instructions, and some other tips. I'll update that later - once we have the tranny rebuilt.
Stay tuned!
ALSO, here's an EXCELLENT write-up by Ben (IN VTEC) on how to rebuild a gsr transmission with itr lsd and jdm itr final drive:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=795700
Modified by Black R at 3:39 AM 4/22/2006
Now is the time to look at the clutch and flywheel and examine them.
You will remove the 6 (or sometimes 9) 12pt bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel in a criss-cross star pattern to avoid warping the plate. Break them 1/2 turn then work your way around loosening turn by turn until they're free.
Next is to remove the flywheel. It is 8 12pt bolts with very thin heads. Use a screwdriver through one of the holes in the flywheel to brace it while you unbolt them (they are 80ft-lb going on, and often very difficult to remove). Take great care to NOT strip them!
Now is a good time to resurface the flywheel as well.
If you are upgrading, installation is in the reverse order of removal, but with some specific torque instructions, and some other tips. I'll update that later - once we have the tranny rebuilt.
Stay tuned!
ALSO, here's an EXCELLENT write-up by Ben (IN VTEC) on how to rebuild a gsr transmission with itr lsd and jdm itr final drive:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=795700
Modified by Black R at 3:39 AM 4/22/2006
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From: Charlotte
Re: how to: itr tranny rebuild and upgrade (Black R)
Tranny Overhaul:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=795700
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=795700
Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,864
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From: Wilmington, De, USA
Re: how to: itr tranny rebuild and upgrade (walker111)
[QUOTE=walker111]To tell you the truth the trans is
Just get everything so you don't have to worry about what might be bad. That's umless you're tight on $$$ like me....
When I have to do it all over again I will definitely be replacing all bearings/seals/LSD/FD.
Good write-up. It's nice to cross reference threads like this with threads done by IN VTEC, and the manual.
Just get everything so you don't have to worry about what might be bad. That's umless you're tight on $$$ like me....
When I have to do it all over again I will definitely be replacing all bearings/seals/LSD/FD.
Good write-up. It's nice to cross reference threads like this with threads done by IN VTEC, and the manual.
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From: Atlantis
Re: how to: itr tranny rebuild and upgrade (Willard)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tranny Overhaul:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=795700</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, I should've added that in my original post as well.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=795700</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, I should've added that in my original post as well.
cool guy name
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From: not walker111 do a search hoes
Thread Starter
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From: Atlantis
Re: (clip the apex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clip the apex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you make it sound so simple to remove the trans. last one we tried to remove (R1366's), it was a BITCH!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, I'm by no means saying that it's simple/ easy, etc!
The first time I dropped the tranny to install just the 4.9 final drive. I hadn't done much before that other than change the oil and put on a cai and header..... So I popped my cherry with the helms and h-t and I'm glad I did it.
The next time I dropped it (a couple months later) just to install a clutch and flywheel.
The next time was to help a buddy, and it's just snowballed from there - helping friends, etc when they needed it.
But I will say that the more you do it, the easier it gets, and the less time it takes. That's why some of those techs at honda are so damn quick.
I'm typically very slow and methodical with my work though - as it's usually just for my own cars and I don't like to be rushed/ hurried and mess up or forget something.
My goal is to encourage others learn to do their own work. You get to know the car better that way, and understand the intricacies of the entire car. It really is quite fascinating! I'm hoping that this will help people not make the same mistakes I have, and possibly show some nice shortcuts on how to get it done as well.
Oh, I'm by no means saying that it's simple/ easy, etc!
The first time I dropped the tranny to install just the 4.9 final drive. I hadn't done much before that other than change the oil and put on a cai and header..... So I popped my cherry with the helms and h-t and I'm glad I did it.
The next time I dropped it (a couple months later) just to install a clutch and flywheel.
The next time was to help a buddy, and it's just snowballed from there - helping friends, etc when they needed it.
But I will say that the more you do it, the easier it gets, and the less time it takes. That's why some of those techs at honda are so damn quick.
I'm typically very slow and methodical with my work though - as it's usually just for my own cars and I don't like to be rushed/ hurried and mess up or forget something.
My goal is to encourage others learn to do their own work. You get to know the car better that way, and understand the intricacies of the entire car. It really is quite fascinating! I'm hoping that this will help people not make the same mistakes I have, and possibly show some nice shortcuts on how to get it done as well.
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From: not walker111 do a search hoes
Re: (Black R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh, I'm by no means saying that it's simple/ easy, etc!
The first time I dropped the tranny to install just the 4.9 final drive. I hadn't done much before that other than change the oil and put on a cai and header..... So I popped my cherry with the helms and h-t and I'm glad I did it.
The next time I dropped it (a couple months later) just to install a clutch and flywheel.
The next time was to help a buddy, and it's just snowballed from there - helping friends, etc when they needed it.
But I will say that the more you do it, the easier it gets, and the less time it takes. That's why some of those techs at honda are so damn quick.
I'm typically very slow and methodical with my work though - as it's usually just for my own cars and I don't like to be rushed/ hurried and mess up or forget something.
My goal is to encourage others learn to do their own work. You get to know the car better that way, and understand the intricacies of the entire car. It really is quite fascinating! I'm hoping that this will help people not make the same mistakes I have, and possibly show some nice shortcuts on how to get it done as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I couldnt agree more
Oh, I'm by no means saying that it's simple/ easy, etc!
The first time I dropped the tranny to install just the 4.9 final drive. I hadn't done much before that other than change the oil and put on a cai and header..... So I popped my cherry with the helms and h-t and I'm glad I did it.
The next time I dropped it (a couple months later) just to install a clutch and flywheel.
The next time was to help a buddy, and it's just snowballed from there - helping friends, etc when they needed it.
But I will say that the more you do it, the easier it gets, and the less time it takes. That's why some of those techs at honda are so damn quick.
I'm typically very slow and methodical with my work though - as it's usually just for my own cars and I don't like to be rushed/ hurried and mess up or forget something.
My goal is to encourage others learn to do their own work. You get to know the car better that way, and understand the intricacies of the entire car. It really is quite fascinating! I'm hoping that this will help people not make the same mistakes I have, and possibly show some nice shortcuts on how to get it done as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I couldnt agree more
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,864
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From: Wilmington, De, USA
Re: (Black R)
To add a few tidbits for Black R....
With my full race bars, I only need to remove the one bolt holding the radius rod to the crossmember and then it just pivots out of the way (no need to disconnect it from the LCA or remove the LCA). Also, you'd have more room for that header if you had a differnt bar (i.e. full-race, the main cross section would be where your tow hooks are now) although that's a nice hack up job
Also, where'd you get that skid plate??????
Nice pics
With my full race bars, I only need to remove the one bolt holding the radius rod to the crossmember and then it just pivots out of the way (no need to disconnect it from the LCA or remove the LCA). Also, you'd have more room for that header if you had a differnt bar (i.e. full-race, the main cross section would be where your tow hooks are now) although that's a nice hack up job
Also, where'd you get that skid plate??????
Nice pics
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
Re: (88 rex)
that's true about full race... but they weren't even a company when i built this car.....
Anybody know why the fingers on the pressure plate are all ground down a bit on the tips? It is several thousandths and is quite noticable.....
Anybody know why the fingers on the pressure plate are all ground down a bit on the tips? It is several thousandths and is quite noticable.....
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis, MO, USA
dtweezy...because when you depress the clutch pedal, the throwout bearing moves forward and pushes on the fingers. depending on how deep it is, you should be ok but might want to adjust the rod length on your clutch master cylinder a little shorter so the the fingers won't engage too far in.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 12,949
Likes: 8
From: Atlantis
.....sorry, that was me posting from Donny's (dteezy) house.
Anyway, I got a bit more done tonight:
WTF, why is this bearing so damn loose?
(right click and save as - use windows media player to play http://www.we-todd-did-racing....5NTQx
And how the expletive am I supposed to get that nut off (80 ft-lb) the countershaft, and how am I supposed to get all the bearings off? And how am I supposed to get the gears off?
I need a diy at home method for this write-up.....
Modified by Black R at 12:06 AM 4/25/2006
Anyway, I got a bit more done tonight:
WTF, why is this bearing so damn loose?
(right click and save as - use windows media player to play
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....5NTQxAnd how the expletive am I supposed to get that nut off (80 ft-lb) the countershaft, and how am I supposed to get all the bearings off? And how am I supposed to get the gears off?
I need a diy at home method for this write-up.....Modified by Black R at 12:06 AM 4/25/2006
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,073
Likes: 1
From: The Dirty Hotness
Re: (Black R)
I needed to find somebody with a bench vise, I put the gearset sandwiched with a bunch of 2X4s so the vise doesn't chew up the gears (obviously)....
The old 2X4s worked great cuz they got all soft from all the solvent/oil that got soaked into them so it allowed the gears to sink in gripping the entire countershaft - granted we used an impact to remove the 80ft-lb staked nut at the top, but I'm sure a breaker bar would have worked at this point.
I've seen another guy wrap his gearset with a lot of towels, then put the wrapped gearset on a piece of carpet....got a friend to stand on the whole mess and gunned it off. The guy standing couldn't have been any more than 150lbs, but I gotta say he wrapped the countershaft really good.
The latter method I'd attempt just for removal, but upon reassembly....uh...I think not....
The old 2X4s worked great cuz they got all soft from all the solvent/oil that got soaked into them so it allowed the gears to sink in gripping the entire countershaft - granted we used an impact to remove the 80ft-lb staked nut at the top, but I'm sure a breaker bar would have worked at this point.
I've seen another guy wrap his gearset with a lot of towels, then put the wrapped gearset on a piece of carpet....got a friend to stand on the whole mess and gunned it off. The guy standing couldn't have been any more than 150lbs, but I gotta say he wrapped the countershaft really good.
The latter method I'd attempt just for removal, but upon reassembly....uh...I think not....
Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington, De, USA
Re: (RagingAngel)
I asked the same exact question about that mainshaft bearing not too long ago. I was told it was to have no play in it, but I got my BRAND NEW bearing, it had just about the same amount of play. I assume it is suppose to have that much play. It also just slides onto and off of that shaft.
As mentioned, use a vise and wood to hold the countershaft to get that nut off. Then I've been told, haven't tried it myself, that you can just drop the whole unit (upside down) a few times onto a piece of wood and use the force/weight of the gears to push those two bearings off. Once they come off the gears just slide off.
The entire mainshaft just slides off.
I think to reinstalll the bearings on teh countershaft you can use some 1.5" pvc pipe as a "press" and hammer them on.
As mentioned, use a vise and wood to hold the countershaft to get that nut off. Then I've been told, haven't tried it myself, that you can just drop the whole unit (upside down) a few times onto a piece of wood and use the force/weight of the gears to push those two bearings off. Once they come off the gears just slide off.
The entire mainshaft just slides off.
I think to reinstalll the bearings on teh countershaft you can use some 1.5" pvc pipe as a "press" and hammer them on.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 12,949
Likes: 8
From: Atlantis
helms says to use a press for many of the gears and the bearings.....
I think I can get the nut off using the wtdr method, but can't figure out how to get the bearings off without damaging them beyond reusability..... Autozone only had that particular tool for rental and no bearing splitter.....
I think I can get the nut off using the wtdr method, but can't figure out how to get the bearings off without damaging them beyond reusability..... Autozone only had that particular tool for rental and no bearing splitter.....
