I just changed mine yesterday - 84k miles on them!

I can't believe that I never changed them sooner!

Well, I've changed the plugs before, but the cap and rotor button change made all the difference in the world! LOL I changed plug wires as well, and kept starting the car with each change to tell the difference in starting and idle:

Plugs = no change.
Plug wires = no change.
Distributor cap and rotor button = night and day.

Can you believe I've been boosting 10psi for the year on cap and rotor button that had never been replaced? (I'm not the first owner of the car.... and it developed a funny stumble at partial throttle at 40,xxx miles..... o_O

And what's this I hear about some people not using the screw to hold the rotor button on? Do you just have the spring from the distributor cap hold it in place?


Modified by Black R at 2:18 PM 4/19/2006

 

Rotor button = needs a screw IMO (or use a bolt like 'D' has suggested).

 

i happend to replace dist. rotor twice using autozone brand and they don't come with screw.. it just locks in place. i'm not sure if i'd use it on my itr.. i'll stick with oem for all ignition needs. i can't believe you made it to 80k miles on original rotor.. my car started to choke at 43k miles.. after that i replace it every 15k.. maybe a bit longer for spark plug wires.. and spark plugs every 5k miles.

 

If you think 84k miles is bad my car had its original wires at 130k, 12 years later...on a Ford no less

 

Hmm i'm just about to hit 100k, thanks for the reminder

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alexander &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm i'm just about to hit 100k, thanks for the reminder </TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL!! nice

i have some Sp00n wires/grounds on the way, didn't think of changing the distributor cap and rotor button, thanks for the info... never would have thought

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rotor button = needs a screw IMO (or use a bolt like 'D' has suggested).</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, I like/trust my 8mm bolt than I do the oem screw though. So far so good....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I agree, I like/trust my 8mm bolt than I do the oem screw though. So far so good.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

What's this bolt trick?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's this bolt trick?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Simply the properly threaded 8mm bolt to hold it instead of a screw. A tiny locktite dab and done. Can use a socket now and its much simpler than worrying about stripping a screw out.

 

Haha, damn. I'm almost at 128K miles on my LS and I'm still running on stock cap and rotor (not sure if first [last owner] owner ever had it changed though).

*Reminder* I need to change 'em!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC4KiD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha, damn. I'm almost at 128K miles on my LS and I'm still running on stock cap and rotor (not sure if first [last owner] owner ever had it changed though).

*Reminder* I need to change 'em!</TD></TR></TABLE>


I'm not sure how many other owners this car has had, but I can only assume these components have never been changed previously.....

 

I am a firm believer in preventative maintenence. I'll do thinks much sooner than others would. So far, I've never had a car leave me stranded.

&lt;----- :knocks on wood:

 

Ok I got the book here (oh, watch out...here it comes)



What screw are you talking about that you can replace with a bolt? what #?

and when I order the parts (cap and rotor) I should order #2 and #3 on the diagram?

And whats a rotor button?

Thanks for J00r help!
Chris

 

#11

 

#11; rotor retaining screw (Must be made of diamagnetic material)
WTF is diamegnetic material?!
is that a farious metal thats magnetically reactive?

now I see how much I've been slacking...

 

2, 3, 11

 

147K on the stock cap, rotor and wires.

I really should change them, but I'm lazy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MK Ultra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">147K on the stock cap, rotor and wires.

I really should change them, but I'm lazy. </TD></TR></TABLE>

can't believe some of you are able to make it that far... ever wash n wax your car? - that takes more effort than to chagne cap/rotor/wires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can't believe some of you are able to make it that far... ever wash n wax your car? - that takes more effort than to chagne cap/rotor/wires</TD></TR></TABLE>

Picking up my parts at acura today

 

I just change everything each time my motor blows up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ever wash n wax your car? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not in the last year or so. I park under a fargin' tree, so it's pointless. Five minutes after I wash it, it's all covered in crap again.

Besides, the car runs fine. It might idle a little smoother with the new parts, but it's not having any problems the way it is.

 

If you're considering changing your cap and rotor you should really check out the new MSD distributor.

Complete Billet, removes the factory ignitor. It's a very nice piece.

I just finished installing one on my 2.0L motor and the difference night and day. The car is more responsive.

Since they are around the same price as brand new distributor from honda/acura they are definetly worth checking out. They are also 100% compatible with stock ecu

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clip the apex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just change everything each time my motor blows up </TD></TR></TABLE>

You crack me up

 

If anyone is running a distributor king dizzy, anyone know which OEM rotor fits?

 

Anyone have the part number for the cap and rotor?
Also will the ITR cap and rotor fit in a B16B motor?

All we have in Malaysia is used ones and i need a part number to order a new one.