I have heard about this on GSR's and was wondering if it was possible to add oil squirters to the b20 block as well. Is it worth the time and effor to do it?

 

welllll...........the GSR already has them......and for $400 including return shipping and polished squitters....Ill tap your B20/B18B block with squitters

 

wouldent that increase windage, and rob a few HP i thought most people got rid of them at leastin high performance motors

 

I plugged mine on my gsr with no problems. Use the $ for something else.

 

I would think it's a question of a small increase in windage versus the increased reliability that comes from the cooling effect of oil jets directed at the piston. Might be a good idea for FI engines to keep the pistons from melting. But then again if the car is tuned right with proper fuel management that shouldn't happen. Maybe if you wanted to push the envelope with regards to timing advance?

 

I was joking about the $400 install thing. Why did you remove yours?

 

they are not needed on b20/vtec

 

there not needed on any motor......but obviously theyll give ya longer life and smooth operation on a higher revving motor.

 

I woud like it to have a longer life and smooth operttion. How this setup cost?

 

U don't need the oil cooling affect on forged pistons. Squirters were designed to keep stock cast alum pistons cool. Plus oil just adds weight to rotating assembly. Also helps oil distribution to rest of motor. If you are using aftermarket forged pistons, u don't need the squirters. They cool better and quicker than cast pistons.

 

I am going to use Arias pistons for my buildup so then I shouldn't have to worry about the oil squirters? I am thinking about getting an oil cooler as well at the moment. Maybe a greddy one but I'm not sure yet.

 

dont take peoples words. Think of it for yourself. Everytime the pistons goes up and down it gets a squirt of oil. If you say it has an effect on wieght.....why would honda build it into their highest revving motors?

 

Honda created the squirter to cool their CAST aluminum pistons. They need the cooling help. Not necessary with a forged piston as it deals with the temp MUCH better. The weight of the oil is only a secondary benefit along with more oil available for the rest of the engine. Also, an oil cooler will lower the oil pressure of your engine as the oil pump has to push the oil thru the cooler. I'll take the extra pressure and volume over oil temp any time.
BTW, many of us on this board have tried, tested and flogged subjects that we post on.

 

Would a GSR oil pump be enough for my b20 with expected dyno numbers of 200+whp, greddy oil cooler, and 85000rpm? In other words will the oil pump fail under that amount of pressure from drag racing, road racing, and daily driving or can it handle it? If not what other one would you recommend. Also would a Toda oil pump gear help at all?

 

GSR pump is a great pump. You could always shim the spring .030 for a little extra pressure.

 

B series motors have plenty of oil pressure, I doubt the rest of the motor will "starve" for oil with the squirters installed, the main question here is cost vs effect, is the cost of the install worth the cooling effects on the forged pistons that you will be running. I'm a fan of oil squirters, cooling a piston that is under load is a good thing, no matter what the piston is made out of.

 

A forged piston holds the heat inside the combustion chamber where it makes the power. Cast pistons melt under too much heat. Oil squirters won't starve an engine for oil but they won't help an engine with forged pistons. Many GSR performance builders actually pinch the oil squirters closed inorder to direct the oil to where it is more needed. If you like them, use them. Just be carefull drilling into those fragile oil galleries when installing them. Can quickly turn a good block into scrap.

 

85000 jesus

 

** On the subject of shimming the oil pump ** I'm running m turbo setup and much like an oil cooler it lowers the overall pressure in the system from between 50~75 to between 20~50. I just wondering if anyone one know what amount the spring needs to be shimmed to get the oil pressure back up to around normal.


[Modified by Speed PHreak, 3:01 PM 4/10/2002]

 

 

.050 max. Oil pressure is related to your bearing clearances as well as the shim. Don't over do it with the shim.

 

Interesting....thats not a very big shim only 50 thousands of an inch(.050)? What should I use to shim it? Just a washer of the appropriate thinkness?

 

I like stainless steel washers. Make sure they fit the bottom of the spring perch properly. It will be obvious what is proper when you take it apart. BTW when you pull the plug, it will come flying out so BE READY
You may be able to use thicker washers but it may be harder on the pump??Not sure on that...

 

My oil pump's been shimmed, and my seals in ym turbo on the turbine side are FUBAR...

I dunno what washer my mechanic used, but with cool oil, the car made 90 PSI at IDLE.

I think it was maxing the system out, cause that was the highest it'd go, even running the car, it'd hit 6 bar and then drop back a little to 5.5 bar and not increase...

Is there a cap to oil pressure, like a pop off valve that will reclose itself or something? Maybe it was just puching oil past the rod bearings? I've got the oil pan off now, but I'm waiting for my h10 and h12 socket to come in at Sears.... The bottom end looks NICE for a 2200 mile motor... almost NEW!. Wait. It is new!

 

I run 28 lbs boost on my 500+ whp race only b18c with no shim. I feel that 60 lbs is as good as 90 lbs of oil pressure if you have volume. The gsr pump produces great volume as long as it is in good shape. Go EASY on the thickness of the shim if you feel you have to have one. I probably have 50 passes on the motor