Jun stage 3 or Toda b
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98ekhx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">m22x or m24x
rocketmotorsports
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he doesn't have that option, obviously...
personally i'd go with the Todas if i were you, they have in state customer service and are pretty strong as far as their distribution here in the states... if you have a problem with any JUN parts you're pretty much F'ed with no KY
wish JUN U.S.A. were still here...
rocketmotorsports
</TD></TR></TABLE>he doesn't have that option, obviously...

personally i'd go with the Todas if i were you, they have in state customer service and are pretty strong as far as their distribution here in the states... if you have a problem with any JUN parts you're pretty much F'ed with no KY
wish JUN U.S.A. were still here...
imho, you can't go wrong with either one.....
jun 3's will net you more peak by a little bit, while the toda b's will net you more midrange by quite a lot.....
jun 3's will net you more peak by a little bit, while the toda b's will net you more midrange by quite a lot.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">imho, you can't go wrong with either one.....
jun 3's will net you more peak by a little bit, while the toda b's will net you more midrange by quite a lot..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
Two of the most consistent and proven cams, both work great on ITR motors.
jun 3's will net you more peak by a little bit, while the toda b's will net you more midrange by quite a lot..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
Two of the most consistent and proven cams, both work great on ITR motors.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN.R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">personally i'd go with the Todas if i were you</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha
I found this pretty funny coming from the biggest JUN ***** on H-T!
haha
I found this pretty funny coming from the biggest JUN ***** on H-T!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slick GS-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
haha
I found this pretty funny coming from the biggest JUN ***** on H-T!
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He voices a good point, never the less...
haha
I found this pretty funny coming from the biggest JUN ***** on H-T!
</TD></TR></TABLE>He voices a good point, never the less...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dat1BVtecN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry for gettin off topic, but i heard thee Skunk2 Pro1 series cams are really great for the price</TD></TR></TABLE> If you buy stage one you should spend a few more bucks and get the stage three
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fayzeless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you buy stage one you should spend a few more bucks and get the stage three</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't want to come off as a dick, but let me ask you why you'd tell people something like that in the very same thread where you're asking about much milder cams and 'which is better?' which is information we've pretty much beaten to death in the archives.....
Furthermore, this is BAD INFORMATION. Bigger isn't always better, and as much as I hate terms like the misnomer "overcamming," I really don't think recommending skunk pro3's over skunk pro1's is a smart move. Consider what you may or may not know - pro1's are really great for 10:1+ compression. They offer gains in the midrange and top end. pro2's do the same, but offer even more top end. pro3's even MORE top end. BUT they are so big they will beat your stock valve stem seals to **** and your motor will smoke and lose all kinds of oil and you will LOSE POWER due to this. You will then need to rebuild the head because of poor cam choice.
The cams should be selected to fit the application. You haven't told us a bit about your build, nor what your intent and goals are. Let's start there first.
ekim, the same goes for your recommendation - please leave it with a word of caution that the spec C's do offer more top end than the spec B's - BUT you have to check your clearances carefully. If it's a stock itr head, you will likely need to grind your rocker arms on the underside to prevent them from chipping away at the tops of your retainers at idle.....
PLEASE CONSIDER THE ENTIRE BUILD FELLOW ENTHUSIASTS!
BLIND RECOMMENDATIONS ARE A DISSERVICE TO US ALL!
I don't want to come off as a dick, but let me ask you why you'd tell people something like that in the very same thread where you're asking about much milder cams and 'which is better?' which is information we've pretty much beaten to death in the archives.....

Furthermore, this is BAD INFORMATION. Bigger isn't always better, and as much as I hate terms like the misnomer "overcamming," I really don't think recommending skunk pro3's over skunk pro1's is a smart move. Consider what you may or may not know - pro1's are really great for 10:1+ compression. They offer gains in the midrange and top end. pro2's do the same, but offer even more top end. pro3's even MORE top end. BUT they are so big they will beat your stock valve stem seals to **** and your motor will smoke and lose all kinds of oil and you will LOSE POWER due to this. You will then need to rebuild the head because of poor cam choice.

The cams should be selected to fit the application. You haven't told us a bit about your build, nor what your intent and goals are. Let's start there first.
ekim, the same goes for your recommendation - please leave it with a word of caution that the spec C's do offer more top end than the spec B's - BUT you have to check your clearances carefully. If it's a stock itr head, you will likely need to grind your rocker arms on the underside to prevent them from chipping away at the tops of your retainers at idle.....
PLEASE CONSIDER THE ENTIRE BUILD FELLOW ENTHUSIASTS!
BLIND RECOMMENDATIONS ARE A DISSERVICE TO US ALL!
To add to what Black R just posted, Skunk2 Pro1's are bigger than the old stage 2's, or similarly, JUN 3's. In addition, the Pro1's will not idle without the aid of a wideband, and some sort of tuning solution, whether that be Hondata, Crome, or an EMS of some sort. Trust me on this, the Pro1's are not a drop-and-go cam, however if you have the required tuning tools, the Pro1's are, IMHO, the best cam for motors with compression between 10:1 and 11.5:1.
-Marshall-...who's still confused on why this turned into a comparison of 10 different cams.
-Marshall-...who's still confused on why this turned into a comparison of 10 different cams.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ekim, the same goes for your recommendation - please leave it with a word of caution that the spec C's do offer more top end than the spec B's - BUT you have to check your clearances carefully. If it's a stock itr head, you will likely need to grind your rocker arms on the underside to prevent them from chipping away at the tops of your retainers at idle.....
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The spec C's work fine with a stock type R head. But yes you do need to check your clearance's but you should do that with any cam. Also the B's and C's have the same low cam lobe so why would you have a problem at idle?
ekim, the same goes for your recommendation - please leave it with a word of caution that the spec C's do offer more top end than the spec B's - BUT you have to check your clearances carefully. If it's a stock itr head, you will likely need to grind your rocker arms on the underside to prevent them from chipping away at the tops of your retainers at idle.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The spec C's work fine with a stock type R head. But yes you do need to check your clearance's but you should do that with any cam. Also the B's and C's have the same low cam lobe so why would you have a problem at idle?
so you are telling me that jun 3's and toda b's are milder cams than skunk 2? I didn't know that. My plans are new rods and pistons with maybe 12:1 copression. port and polished head with new valves springs retainers. what is the best compression to run with jun 3's by the way?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fayzeless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you are telling me that jun 3's and toda b's are milder cams than skunk 2? I didn't know that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Pro series cams, yes. They have considerably larger primaries than the JUN 3's, and are larger than the TODA B's, although not as much considering they have a good set of primaries. Topend will be about the same as the JUN 3's with the Pro-1.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fayzeless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the best compression to run with jun 3's by the way? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Anything between 10.5-12.5:1 on pump gas.
The Pro series cams, yes. They have considerably larger primaries than the JUN 3's, and are larger than the TODA B's, although not as much considering they have a good set of primaries. Topend will be about the same as the JUN 3's with the Pro-1.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fayzeless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the best compression to run with jun 3's by the way? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Anything between 10.5-12.5:1 on pump gas.
would you take the skunk pro 1's over jun3 and toda b's? if yes would you take pro 1s or pro 2s
Modified by Fayzeless at 2:04 PM 4/17/2006
Modified by Fayzeless at 2:04 PM 4/17/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fayzeless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would you take the skunk pro 1's over jun3 and toda b's? if yes would you take pro 1s or pro 2s</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it were strictly decided on by overal performance, I would choose the Pro1's. However, there is a downside to the Pro1's, mainly that you will not get them to idle unless you have a wideband, and it really helps to have real-time-programming to make those changes.
The Pro1's are best suited for compression up to 11.5:1, and the Pro2's from 11.5:1 and up.
If it were strictly decided on by overal performance, I would choose the Pro1's. However, there is a downside to the Pro1's, mainly that you will not get them to idle unless you have a wideband, and it really helps to have real-time-programming to make those changes.
The Pro1's are best suited for compression up to 11.5:1, and the Pro2's from 11.5:1 and up.
wideband = wideband oxygen sensor
The Pro-1's have such large primaries that the IACV cannot compensate fast enough, even at 100% duty cycle, which causes the intake to pulse and run like crap, usually choking out and dying. You require precise tuning to get them to idle properly, and usually you have to mess with the throttle stop.
If you do not have access to a wideband, I would suggest not getting the Skunk2 Pro cams.
The Pro-1's have such large primaries that the IACV cannot compensate fast enough, even at 100% duty cycle, which causes the intake to pulse and run like crap, usually choking out and dying. You require precise tuning to get them to idle properly, and usually you have to mess with the throttle stop.
If you do not have access to a wideband, I would suggest not getting the Skunk2 Pro cams.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fayzeless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry but i don't know what a wideband is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wideband A/F(Air/Fuel) monitor/tuner.
Anything that can alter/adjust the Air/Fuel curve such as Hondata, Crome, AEM EMS, Neptune, etc. The ITR has a narrowband o2 sensor so a wideband is needed for tuning purposes or in future for accurate monitoring. Adding a more aggrerssive cam set-up requires adding more fuel in certain areas and perhaps take away in others. A wideband o2 will have a more accurate reading as to where "tuning" needs to take place.
Is that right? Did I miss anything?
Wideband A/F(Air/Fuel) monitor/tuner.
Anything that can alter/adjust the Air/Fuel curve such as Hondata, Crome, AEM EMS, Neptune, etc. The ITR has a narrowband o2 sensor so a wideband is needed for tuning purposes or in future for accurate monitoring. Adding a more aggrerssive cam set-up requires adding more fuel in certain areas and perhaps take away in others. A wideband o2 will have a more accurate reading as to where "tuning" needs to take place.
Is that right? Did I miss anything?




