I just picked up a stock '98 GSR hatchback. I don't have any plans for FI, except maybe a Jackson Racing supercharger later on in the future. I just plan to get it fully bolted up, and I would like to have a real hard VTEC kick-in/pull.....the stronger the better, I'm not worried about low end that much. Let me know what mods you guys got, and what would make for the best VTEC pull, without doing internal work yet(maybe later on also). Also, what kind of whp should I be able to put down with the mods? a friend of mine has a bolted Spec V, I would like to be able to take him, just for example. Thanks

 

bolt ons and camshafts/valvetrain should do the job along with some good tuning and fuel management.

 

if u really want VTEC to kick u in tha *** then i recommend cams+manifold combo

 

you say you want to be fast, but yet you don't want to change your internals...Yeah, I don't see that happening.

 

well, I can do cams, I mean internals as in pistons and the lower stuff. Most of the cams I see say you need a valvetrain upgrade, what exactly do you need? Also, what do you guys recommend when it comes to a header?? And the cams?

Also I plan to get a chipped P28 and the obd2 to obd1 conversion, what would be the best VTEC crossover? I don't think I would raise the rev limiter any over stock....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flomasta24 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Also I plan to get a chipped P28 and the obd2 to obd1 conversion, what would be the best VTEC crossover? I don't think I would raise the rev limiter any over stock....</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont know the vtec crossover until you actually put the cams in the car...they determine the optimal place for vtec crossover...

 

damn i didn't even realize what i was say, Skunk2 Stage 1 cams good? If not, what would be good? I plan on AEM intake, DC 4-1 header(or should i go w/ 4-2-1), and Greddy Sp2 exhaust......what you guys think?

 

get i/h/e, skunk2 im, test tipe, camshafts plus camgears, then get it tune

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flomasta24 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn i didn't even realize what i was say, Skunk2 Stage 1 cams good? If not, what would be good? I plan on AEM intake, DC 4-1 header(or should i go w/ 4-2-1), and Greddy Sp2 exhaust......what you guys think?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do not but a DC header they are horrible there flow sucks and they are about the same size as a stock header... comptec makes a really nice header for your car, also a stock jdm itr one is nice too. As for cams stick with stage 1 or with stock itr or ctr because if you go more agresive than those you will need to build the bottom end

 

I have to disagree with VHOA on the header subject. DC is a decent header for the price. They get a bad rep on here because most people try and compare them to high end custom headers when they are no match. You cant compare a 250-300 dollar header to a 700-1000+ header. Let us know what ur header budget is and we will let you know which one we think will be best. If it is around 500 dollars, then a profab header would be a great choice.

Then go with a test pipe, or high flow cat. I believe SMSP will custom make one to fit ur exact setup so you wont have any problems during instalation. As for cat back, it is up to you. If you want loud, go with buddy club catback or skunk catback. But if you want quiet, go with RSR-Exmag.

On the cam issue, i would have to choose buddy club 3+. Midrange owns sknk stg 1 cams but around 7-8k, the sknks stg1 takes over. You will have a higher peak hp with skunk, but the bc3+ will have more USUABLE daily driving power since your probably not going to be in the redline area constantly. The bc3+ made 11whp in midrange over CTR cams on one of OMNIMANS builds FYI.

As for a tuning device, i would go with hondata s200. I have heard no problems with this device.

 

Dang not a single person said "Search"

I agree, get the best cams and header you can afford, a skunk 2 mani, decent catback, and any intake you want. Cam gears and the Hondata will make for a nice combo.

Try your best to look at the entire package together. If you want all top end, get all top-end oriented parts. I think you would be happier with a beefy midrange that will just stay strong to redline, if it doesn't keep pulling.

The only conflict I see is you said u may go JRSC, if you are sure that's what you are gonna do, don't get the skunk mani.

 

Whats a good Midrange cam?

 

First off, how big is your bank roll for this car? I dont have alot to spend on my car at a time, so my build is going to be slow but I am okay with that. We also need to know if you are going to go supercharger or if you are going to stay NA. What are your final HP goals with this car?

I would suggest cams, valve train, good header, tuning, and fuel managment. If you want you can PM me and I will tell you what I have and what I am planning on doing in the future. BTW I am making 177 whp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flomasta24 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn i didn't even realize what i was say, Skunk2 Stage 1 cams good? If not, what would be good? I plan on AEM intake, DC 4-1 header(or should i go w/ 4-2-1), and Greddy Sp2 exhaust......what you guys think?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i own the skunk2 stage1 myself and i really enjoy it. after tuning, these cams own. if you want more low-mid range then go with buddy club.. more top end power then go with skunk2. id take the skunk2 because thats when i shine when i race

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RIP Indian Larry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have to disagree with VHOA on the header subject. DC is a decent header for the price. They get a bad rep on here because most people try and compare them to high end custom headers when they are no match. You cant compare a 250-300 dollar header to a 700-1000+ header. Let us know what ur header budget is and we will let you know which one we think will be best. If it is around 500 dollars, then a profab header would be a great choice.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was comparing it to a stock jdm itr header... that has to say somethin about the aftermarket header if a stock one performs better and is desinged better

 

The main reason I said I wanted to stay NA is becuz it will be a daily driver, and needs to be reliable....I posted another ? on a differnet forum, and some one chimed in about turbo. I could do turbo, I can get a b series turbo kit for like $2k, I am just worried about reliability. Every couple of months I take like a 5-6 hour trip, and the car will be a daily driver also.....so should turbo be out of the question? Or should I just not waste my time with bolt ons, and go straight for the turbo?

 

bump for turbo??

 

keep it basic n/a mods, it is more reliable that way.

 

well I have been researching, and I mean I could just get a bolt on turbo kit, run at around 7 psi, as long as it was tuned correctly wouldn't it be ok for a daily driver?

 

that'd be ok, but you'd have to have a real good tune and make sure you don't have a lead foot. if you're going to go FI, i always suggest doing some reinforcement. however, your motor can survive stock... you'd just have to get a real, real good tune.

 

I found a JDM ITR header, what would be a good price on it? I think its new...
Now that I think about it, I don't think I would get the JSRC, if I were to go FI it would be turbo....

 

If you are running N/A, I'd think about getting a whaledick intake from passwordjdm.com. I've heard great things about it, and it looks pretty good.

 

Well IMO I think all the intakes are gonna give about the same gains......anybody know a good price on the JDM ITR header? The one I found I don't think is authentic tho, it has a 2.25" collector?


Modified by flomasta24 at 11:03 PM 4/16/2006

 

By your replies, you seem like you know pretty much what to do. If your electronic management system (Hondata S200 or whatever) is tuned, 7 psi is definitely no problem. There's only obvious things like cooling the turbo down after running it hard (turbo timer), making sure to get 91 octane, change the oil a bit earlier than usual, and it'll cost more money for tires if you have a lead foot.

 

Thanks man, do you daily drive your GSR turbo?