DAmn....I hate to be posting this but I'm out of ideas...I need help!!!
My idle surges once the car starts to warm up. It doesn't surge for several minutes, then all of a sudden it starts.

Now here's where it gets wierd, if I turn my lights on, it idles perfect!

I've replaced and adjsuted the FITV so its not that. I've adjusted TPS but I'll check again to make sure.

It leads me to believe its the IACV. BUT, I've replaced it and cleaned it out to no
avail.

Motor is turbo GSR.

HELP

 

Mine does the same thing only it starts after I boost hard. Up for answer also.

 

I believe it has to do with the IACV also because when I had my motor tuned, you can adjust the IACV duty cycle in the Hondata program. The tuner would make all kinds of changes to the duty cycle on the computer but it never changed the way the car idled and it should have dramatically.

I replaced my IACV with a used on but damn, I doubt it's possible my orignal and the replacment didn't work.

 

bump

 

i have the same exact prob. i noticed that when i turned my lights on that it starts to surge but when the lights are off it doesnt. im in for an answer

 

make sure there is no air in the coolant! bleed

also check for vacuum leaks and check the map sensor

 

no leaks in coolant.

i can't be a vacuum leak or it would surge all the time. My surging STOPS when I turn on the lights.

I have a strange feeling the driver in the ECU for the IACV is bad but I don't know anyone who has a hondata chipped ecu that I can try. I do have one buddy I think but his is set up for 450cc injectors and mine is set up for 1000cc. Can I just switch the chips from our ecus? his is the hondata that is inside the ecu (S100B), doesn't have the external blue box. Mine has the box (S200B)

 

I could never get mine to stop either.

Same situation, I wouldn't say that it "stopped" everytime I turned the lights on, but it certainly would idle way smoother. Hell, I thought it might be a ground or something but I checked everything and replaced the IACV.

I always thought it had something to do with my OBD2 motor in my OBD1 Car, or something in Hondata.

Bump for you, I never figured that one out.

 

possibly the tune ?

 

bleed coolant system, and you can also raise your idle on the ecu to keep it from surging

 

I had the exact same problem after my install and first tune. Then I took it too a much better tuner and the problem was fixed. I'm using hondata stage 2b by the way. gsr motor too.

 

I was going to say a ground. I know the Hazard lights are a very import grounding source. It really seems like it's finding a nice ground when you switch you lights on. If you haven't done it already, I would clean the grounds at the tranny and the thermostat.

 

Mase tuned my car so it isn't the tune.

Grounds seem ok. T-stat is tight, tranny ground is tight, valvecover ground is tight.

I cannot make changes to my hondata tune without going back to the tuner so I cannot change the idle via the ECU.

Tonight I'm going to try to unplug the IACV and see if I can fiddle with the idle screw to get it to idle right then reset the ecu and also connect IACV and see if it works.

 

bump!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mase tuned my car so it isn't the tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol.

 

i would guess a bad ground or air in the coolant...

have u had ur electrical system checked out? seems like it has something to do with ur issue if turning the lights on effects it so dramatically that u can notice.... wish i knew more about electrical so i could help more

 

Hmmmm...I'll check the grounds.

any other ideas?

 

oh yeah, there is also a plastic screw in the throttle body that you can tighten up. you gotta take tb off and there is a cover with two screws. take of the cover and the plastic thing is in there

 

It probably has to do with the tune. I’m not saying Mase fucked it up, as we all know how good he is, however things can change the tune, such as adjusting the timing or cams ect. I’m not sure about Hondata but if its anything like Crome, there is not a lot of resolution around idle. There is also a huge jump in timing in the first few cells in the high vacuum columns where the engine idles. While the engine warms up its rich and will idle different then when it leans out. If your engine is idling in between cells you will get a surging effect as the engine/ ecu searches going up and down the timing ignition map and if the air/ fuel are not nailed down it will add to the surging as the engine will run more efficiently at one cell causing it to increase the engine speed and on and on. I had the same issues and changed all the other stuff and it never helped. Once I got into tuning I realized how getting the idle right was kinda an art. Another thing that effects the idling is the TPS it has to be at 0% when at idle. Hope this helps, I’ve been there scratching my head and look for anything that would fix that annoying problem.

 

abnaasefmb...thanks for the info but I have one question for you. Why would turning on my headlights make the car idle perfect if it was the tune? Actually I lied, Ihave another question, did you read the part where I said that Mase would make changes to the IACV duty cycle in the hondata software and nothing happened? What would cause that?

ramennoodles....thanks but learn what the part is called before you make suggestions that 10 other people have already said. its called a FITV. That was my first thought so I took it apart and did the damn thing and no luck.

I checked all my grounds again last night and they are all on, clean and tight.

here's a question for all......I have three wires going to my IACV, and when I look inside the plug on the IACV, there are only two prongs, but they clip together like they should. Is that a problem? I read up on the 3-2 wire IACV conversion but I don't get a cel for it ever.

 

what kind of iacv came on ur car factory?

 

factory.

 

suscribing

 

Wow I thought I was alone but I guess not. I had my car idle great before I had to take of the turbo for a smog. I live in cali, then once I put it back on I had a surging idle and comes off when I turn my lights on. I am using Crome though. It might be the IACV like you said. I would turn the idle screw and see if that helps Im going to try it myself.


Modified by EK-TSOHCV-TaKRider at 7:06 PM 4/14/2006

 

When you turn on the lights, the radiator fan, or the cabin fan or any combination in you case will put enough load on the alternator which in turn puts enough load on the engine to stabilize it in one cell at a constant ignition timing and probably a relatively constant AFR.

If you think it’s the FICV or the IACV go ahead and replace them, I did. Unfortunately at the end I was just $250 poorer with a super annoying surging idle. Lol

I’m not an expert, this is only my personal experience. From my first swap I had the surging idle thing driving me FU&lt;|&lt;ing NUTZ! I tried every thing and read through hours of threads and followed every crazy idea I came across. I just gave up in the end.

After boosting my ride, I had to learn about tuning because I don’t trust anyone to put the attention to detail into my ride that I would. Again after countless hours of reading and trail and error, I have a pretty good grip on it. With the data logging and real time programming in Crome Pro its easy to see what the engine is doing and adjust the Bin to stabilize the idle.