complete rebuild of motor. start where?
I am about to do a complete rebuild of my motor and I just wanted a few opinoins on where to start and if I should go ahead and bore my block. How much more power would that give me. Also, I was thinking about JE pistons and eagle rods, do you guys have any better suggestions. also, i am thinking about bumping up the compression to 11:1. What are the best valves springs and retainners to get? Please help me out
First, why a rebuild? Burning oil? Damage from something? That will determine which route you should go. Next figure out your goals. Will this car every be FI? Or just stay NA? How wild of a build do you want? Do you want the Honda reliability or some aftermarket goodness?
Yes i am burnig hella oil and my compression is low and unequal on ever cylinder. I want all motor right now because a rebuild and FI is too much $ but eventully will get a supercharger. do you think it is ok to run a supercharger with 11:1 compression?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fayzeless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes i am burnig hella oil and my compression is low and unequal on ever cylinder. I want all motor right now because a rebuild and FI is too much $ but eventully will get a supercharger. do you think it is ok to run a supercharger with 11:1 compression?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Anything is possible. It's pretty much in the tuning at that point. But, you'll be waisting money if you build an engine for one purpose, only to change it later. Look at it this way, if your building a decent comp. ratio engine with a nice Toda header, NA cams and a 4.9 FD, then you decide you want to go turbo (I know you said SC, just bear with me) You'd have to change the 4.9 (not all but most would as 1st and possibly 2nd would be useless) the header you'd have to replace and most would go with some turbo cams. I'd hate to see you dump 4k into a rebuild, only to dump more into the engine when you go SC. Once you figure out exactly what it is you want to do, LMK.
Anything is possible. It's pretty much in the tuning at that point. But, you'll be waisting money if you build an engine for one purpose, only to change it later. Look at it this way, if your building a decent comp. ratio engine with a nice Toda header, NA cams and a 4.9 FD, then you decide you want to go turbo (I know you said SC, just bear with me) You'd have to change the 4.9 (not all but most would as 1st and possibly 2nd would be useless) the header you'd have to replace and most would go with some turbo cams. I'd hate to see you dump 4k into a rebuild, only to dump more into the engine when you go SC. Once you figure out exactly what it is you want to do, LMK.
do you think that boring is worth the money, and is it ok to run a supercharger with a DC JDM header and ctr cams with high comporession pistons?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IIRC, the SC guru (Mythias) says use the Kamakazee header.</TD></TR></TABLE>
From what I hear that POS header is the best when it comes to SC's
From what I hear that POS header is the best when it comes to SC's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
From what I hear the POS header is the best when it comes to SC's</TD></TR></TABLE>
Never heard of that? Mr. Drunken Brad/Bob/Bill says Kamakazee header, LHT manifold, send the SC out to Endyne to have it rebuilt for 14 PSI and sleeve the block.
From what I hear the POS header is the best when it comes to SC's</TD></TR></TABLE>
Never heard of that? Mr. Drunken Brad/Bob/Bill says Kamakazee header, LHT manifold, send the SC out to Endyne to have it rebuilt for 14 PSI and sleeve the block.
as of right now i am staying all motor. do you think boring is worth the money and wich way would you go for reliable good power. I have some things in mind but I want other opinions.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Never heard of that? Mr. Drunken Brad/Bob/Bill says Kamakazee header, LHT manifold, send the SC out to Endyne to have it rebuilt for 14 PSI and sleeve the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I we-todd-did. I meant to say that I heard the kamikaze is the best when it comes to SC's
Never heard of that? Mr. Drunken Brad/Bob/Bill says Kamakazee header, LHT manifold, send the SC out to Endyne to have it rebuilt for 14 PSI and sleeve the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I we-todd-did. I meant to say that I heard the kamikaze is the best when it comes to SC's
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Never heard of that? Mr. Drunken Brad/Bob/Bill says Kamikaze header, LHT manifold, send the SC out to Endyne to have it rebuilt for 14 PSI and sleeve the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can do that, but if you are going to open the block you might as well just build it for turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I hear that POS header is the best when it comes to SC's</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can do that, but if you are going to open the block you might as well just build it for turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I hear that POS header is the best when it comes to SC's</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can do that, but if you are going to open the block you might as well just build it for turbo.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why do you say that? At 14 PSI with a JRSC and the LHT mani, I'd sleeve the block. Sure you "could" just put some forged pistons in, but why do that, and not treat the block. Just MO, but I'd do it all, or not do it at all.
You can do that, but if you are going to open the block you might as well just build it for turbo.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why do you say that? At 14 PSI with a JRSC and the LHT mani, I'd sleeve the block. Sure you "could" just put some forged pistons in, but why do that, and not treat the block. Just MO, but I'd do it all, or not do it at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...I'd do it all, or not do it at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed. If you are going to do something, whether NA or FI, do it and do it right the first time...so there isn't a second or third build. I would much rather wait 6-9 months etc, to save up and do the build the right way.
Make sure when you are budgeting, to including tuning cost. Tuning is crucial, and should not be skimped!
...I'd do it all, or not do it at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed. If you are going to do something, whether NA or FI, do it and do it right the first time...so there isn't a second or third build. I would much rather wait 6-9 months etc, to save up and do the build the right way.
Make sure when you are budgeting, to including tuning cost. Tuning is crucial, and should not be skimped!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fayzeless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am about to do a complete rebuild of my motor and I just wanted a few opinoins on where to start and if I should go ahead and bore my block. How much more power would that give me. Also, I was thinking about JE pistons and eagle rods, do you guys have any better suggestions. also, i am thinking about bumping up the compression to 11:1. What are the best valves springs and retainners to get? Please help me out</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fayzeless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you think that boring is worth the money, and is it ok to run a supercharger with a DC JDM header and ctr cams with high comporession pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you keep saying high compression pistons, 11:1 isn't high at all and would be pretty ideal for a SC if tuned right... do what your budget allows
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fayzeless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you think that boring is worth the money, and is it ok to run a supercharger with a DC JDM header and ctr cams with high comporession pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you keep saying high compression pistons, 11:1 isn't high at all and would be pretty ideal for a SC if tuned right... do what your budget allows
nobody as answered my question yet. Is boring all that great or should I not even waste my time. what ablout 12:1 compression pistons if I saty all motor, and wich pistonsand rods would be the best?
Start by re-sleeving the block so you can go 85+mm. Then get some headwork done and it's pretty simple from there.
Built all motor ITR's = FUN!!!
Built all motor ITR's = FUN!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speed Infliction »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nobody as answered my question yet. Is boring all that great or should I not even waste my time. what ablout 12:1 compression pistons if I saty all motor, and wich pistonsand rods would be the best?</TD></TR></TABLE>
WHAT ARE USING THE CAR FOR?? daily driver? track rat? both?
What is your budget?? <-- kinda important
If you are running new pistons - then bore out for sure. You can try rehoning - but it might be a crap shoot if you ovaled one of the cylinders.
If you are getting new pistons - then you have to decide 1) size of pistons 2) compression ratio 3) piston type -- forged or cast
If you are doing anything over 0.5mm overbore and are using forged pistons - my advice is to sleeve the block with either Darton or Golden Eagle sleeves. The walls of the B18C5 are nikasil lined and are thin to begin with - sleeving just makes the motor so much stronger it is worth it in the long run
If you plan on running pump gas - keep your CR reasonable i.e. 12:1 or lower. If you have access to high octane or race gas - then you can go higher that 12:1 safely. If your car is going to be emissions tested then definitely keep it under 11.5:1 to keep your NOx levels reasonable.
Rod design will depend on 1) the type of pistons your budget can afford 2) CR and 3) overall purpose of the motor (track vs street). H-beam and I-beam forged rods are the most popular. Eagles are good rods but there are lots of other good makes - you should do some research on your own and figure out what YOU want.
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Whatever you do - factor in TUNING with a good quality ECU like Hondata or Chrome and get a custom tune done properly to make sure the engine is getting enough fuel, proper mixture and making the most out of the parts you have selected.
TUNING IS EVERYTHING AND THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT OF YOUR BUILD - budget for it
WHAT ARE USING THE CAR FOR?? daily driver? track rat? both?
What is your budget?? <-- kinda important
If you are running new pistons - then bore out for sure. You can try rehoning - but it might be a crap shoot if you ovaled one of the cylinders.
If you are getting new pistons - then you have to decide 1) size of pistons 2) compression ratio 3) piston type -- forged or cast
If you are doing anything over 0.5mm overbore and are using forged pistons - my advice is to sleeve the block with either Darton or Golden Eagle sleeves. The walls of the B18C5 are nikasil lined and are thin to begin with - sleeving just makes the motor so much stronger it is worth it in the long run
If you plan on running pump gas - keep your CR reasonable i.e. 12:1 or lower. If you have access to high octane or race gas - then you can go higher that 12:1 safely. If your car is going to be emissions tested then definitely keep it under 11.5:1 to keep your NOx levels reasonable.
Rod design will depend on 1) the type of pistons your budget can afford 2) CR and 3) overall purpose of the motor (track vs street). H-beam and I-beam forged rods are the most popular. Eagles are good rods but there are lots of other good makes - you should do some research on your own and figure out what YOU want.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Whatever you do - factor in TUNING with a good quality ECU like Hondata or Chrome and get a custom tune done properly to make sure the engine is getting enough fuel, proper mixture and making the most out of the parts you have selected.
TUNING IS EVERYTHING AND THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT OF YOUR BUILD - budget for it
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