'06 Si, Galaxy Gray.

I have scoured the web, and come across many different opinions on the "proper" warm-up process. Who knows which ones are credible? Anyway:

There are many schools of thought on this topic. I've narrowed it down to two specific methods that I'd like to compare. Both of these methods assume that you let the engine idle shortly (one minute or less) to allow the oil pump to coat the engine components thoroughly. It is also assumed that you are driving stickshift.

METHOD ONE:
Accelerate slowly while the engine is "cold". Let your RPMs get fairly high before upshifting (about 5k-6k in the Si, redline = 8k). Proponents of this method claim that the higher rate of combustion at high RPMs will warm up your engine faster, therefore reducing the amount of time the engine must operate while "cold".

METHOD TWO:
Accelerate slowly while the engine is "cold". Upshift at about 2.5k or less until the temp. gauge is in normal operating range. Proponents of this method claim that letting your engine rev high while still "cold" will cause more frictional wear. They rely on the the principle of Thermal Expansion; engine components and their operating tolerances are not optimal until the components have heated up and expanded.

Lots of you may think there is no need for such an in-depth analysis of the warm-up process. However, I believe that if one method is substantially better than the other, it will translate to longer engine life if one particular method is applied throughout the life of your vehicle.

What's your opinion? If you have any real experience in the field (building engines, mechanic, etc.), please say so. It will make your opinion weigh that much more.

 

Well you want to avoid higher rpm's and loads when cold. One thing is that the oil is thicker when cold and will have to bypass the filter if "getting on it" when cold. And engines operate most efficiently when warm and all clearances should be optimal when the engine is warm. Good thing is to start it and let idle for a couple minutes. Then start driving up to around 3,500 rpms with light throttle until warm. Pretty much want to take it easy with no high rpms or heavy loads until warm. Pretty simple and most people should agree.

 

subscribed.

 

I use method 2, I also change my grade of oil in the winter.

In reality when starting in the cold the engine is the least of your worries. I have driven many older cars in the canadian winters. I have had start ups in -40 weather. Never have I had an engine break, wear out, fail, or whatever because of incorrect warm up procedure. Comence sense applies; Don't beat the **** out of it until it's warmed up.

The bigger concern when starting a car in the cold are everything else. The tires are cold and won't grip as well. Your suspension components, rubber bushings, CV boots are all cold and not as flexible so it is important to take it very easy on bumbs and what not. Could tear a bushing or boot a lot easier in the cold. Inside your car all the plastic switches and gismos are very cold. Plastic breaks very easily when cold. Your turn signal actuator could just snap off. It happened to my bro more than once. Honda bumber are notorious for becoming like glass when cold. They will snap at the slightest hit. I have seen this on more than one occasion.

Other things include joints. The grease in joints takes some time and movement to warm up. Stuff like your CV joints need some gentle movement before the grease warms up a bit. So don't max out your steering to one side right away.

Might even want to gently heat your brakes up a tad to warm up the calipers and ensure that all the road salt and rust is off the rotors.

Other factors affecting warm up are weather. Sure it is best to let it idle for 30 seconds and then drive. However as soon as you get in all the windows will fog up and seeing as your engine is not warm you won't be able to un fog them. So you will not be able to see. It is somewhat unsafe to drive without being able to see. So sometimes I have to let the car idle to it's completely warm up. This will cause my exhaust to rot out quicker because it takes longer to warm up and water will condence on the inside of it and rust.

As you can see there are many many more considerations other than just your engine warming up.

My $0.02

 

You shouldn't let the engine idle for more than a minute because the engine relies on oil throw-off from the side clearance of the connecting rods to lubricate the cylinder walls. At lower engine speeds not enough oil is thrown onto the walls after a while to keep them properly lubricated - especially when cold.

In reality it depends on your climate how you warm up your car. I live in California where it is usually relatively warm. I let the car idle for approximately 30 seconds then go. Keep it below about half-throttle and 5000 rpm (unless I am trying to avoid an accident - the people in my neighborhood can't drive) for about 5 minutes of driving. This is roughly what is recommended by the Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scott_Tucker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You shouldn't let the engine idle for more than a minute because the engine relies on oil throw-off from the side clearance of the connecting rods to lubricate the cylinder walls. At lower engine speeds not enough oil is thrown onto the walls after a while to keep them properly lubricated - especially when cold.

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I totally aggree with this. However, if I have ice forming on the inside of the windshield and get defog it I am in a world of hurt. It's a safety thing.

But ya, 30 seconds is always enough if you can get away with it.