In continuation of my quest for installing gauges, Im wondering if an aftermarket water temp gauge is necessary. I assume one really isnt needed since there is a stock gauge already on the cluster, but Im not sure how accurate it is or the range. The less aftermarket gauges, the better IMO.

Also, which do you think is more important?

Oil temp
Oil pressure

 

I have both in a gauge bezel, and that's it. Don't really feel anymore to be necessary. NA BTW.

 

Oil temp and Oil pressure are all I need. The stock water temp gauge doesn't move much, even at the track.

 

Oil Pressure and Temp are fine...

i have a question for you guys, i know there're a few ways to install the Oil Pressure guage but i'm trying to find the safest. thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN.R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oil Pressure and Temp are fine...

i have a question for you guys, i know there're a few ways to install the Oil Pressure guage but i'm trying to find the safest. thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Put it to the left side of the deep fat fryer!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oil temp
Oil pressure
</TD></TR></TABLE>

They don't call the oil light an idiot light for nothin' IMO the pressure gauge is more important than the temp. There is no gauge on the cluster for it, just a light that goes on when the pressure drops. Not that I really trust the temp one, but given the 2 choices, I would say the pressure gauge.

 

thanks for the replies.

Ive done some searching to try to find the range for oil pressure. seems to vary widely. anyone know what an avg range would be for the ITR? the numbers Ive seen so far are anything from 50-80psi on cold starts, 20-60psi on cruise or normal driving, and up to about 80psi at WOT.

also, when installing an oil pressure guage, does the size of the oil lines used increase/decrease the oil pressure? I would assume using a larger line would lower pressure?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive done some searching to try to find the range for oil pressure. seems to vary widely. anyone know what an avg range would be for the ITR? the numbers Ive seen so far are anything from 50-80psi on cold starts, 20-60psi on cruise or normal driving, and up to about 80psi at WOT. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats about what I normally see also. I feel so much better now that I have my oil pressure/temp guages. I watch them like a hawk too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik95LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats about what I normally see also. I feel so much better now that I have my oil pressure/temp guages. I watch them like a hawk too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, these two are going in the gauge bezel on the cluster in plain sight.

Whats the avg range for oil temp?

 

RTW - You're bang on with the common #'s for oil pressure. What you really need to watch for is sudden drops in pressure under load since that would equal an oil leak of some sort. Not sure about the lines or what size to use. I use a HAMP oil filter which increases pressure by about 5psi. I'm at 22psi at 800rpm and 80psi at WOT and 40-50psi at 1800rpm(cold start).

As for the temp, avg would be 180-220 while driving depending on the weather(how hot it is outside). I didn't go above 220 even at the track. I think I creeped up a hair passed 220 while sitting in traffic for an hour or so on a hot day.

Both my gauges sit in the cluster as well. Since I run a smaller steering wheel they are blocked . I've considered putting them on the dash but I haven't found any way to do it cleanly enough. I know, I'm WAY too picky . A-pillar is no good either since the 6 point will be invading that space soon.

Post pics of your set-up when yer done .

 

of those i´d say oil pressure is the most important.

 

Street driving I got about 200-250 usually. Only tracked once with the guages and saw temps of 315+ so I then promptly added an oil cooler. street temps are now between 160-180 and on track it goes no higher than 220 or so.

 

Spa dual oil pressure/oil temp guage FTW!!!1!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In continuation of my quest for installing gauges, Im wondering if an aftermarket water temp gauge is necessary. I assume one really isnt needed since there is a stock gauge already on the cluster, but Im not sure how accurate it is or the range. The less aftermarket gauges, the better IMO.

Also, which do you think is more important?

Oil temp
Oil pressure

</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you place the sender for the aftermarket water temp gauge in a different spot than the OEM one, it can provide you with different readings for comparison. The OEM sender is on the block of the motor. Running the aftermarket sender to one of the radiator hoses will give you the water temp running through the hose. May be of no use to some, but I've heard mixed opinions about it. Its not completely necessary for a water temp gauge if you're only worried about your car overheating and what-not.

Oil Pressure is the most useful of the 2 gauges for oil.

If a second gauge is what you're looking for that can be useful, exahust temp would be my second choice.

 

I just fitted a water temp gauge to my car recently. After fitting it i realised how useless the stock one is. The stock gauge had risen to about the 1/4 way mark before the greddy gauge started rising (it starts at 30deg C) The stock gauge had reached its peak mark (one mark left of centre) when the greddy gauge was reading 55degrees. My stock gauge never budges no matter how hot or cold it is. On the open road the greddy gauge was showing approx 82degrees, but when stuck in traffic around town it rose into the low 90's (92/94) but dropped pretty qucikly once i started moving again, yet the stock gauge sat its in one position constantly.



I searched high and low for a white gauge to match the oil temp and pressure gauges i had but couldnt find one anywhere and in the end up just got a black one. If anyone has a white 52mm greddy gauge that they want to trade for a black one then PM me

 

EGT is a bit more expense due to the probe, but I will be getting one of those soon. Right now I will be running a/f, boost, oil temp, and oil pres.

 

i have boost, oil pressure and narroband a/f.. oil pressure changes based on temp and you can tell after a while what you normal readings are depending on weather and driving conditions. both are important but i'd choose oil pressure before the temp. stock light comes one when you have no pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....stock light comes one when you have no pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which is probably too late to do anything

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen Mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spa dual oil pressure/oil temp guage FTW!!!1!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice! $280/2 = about 140 per gauge is decent price

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the replies.

Ive done some searching to try to find the range for oil pressure. seems to vary widely. anyone know what an avg range would be for the ITR? the numbers Ive seen so far are anything from 50-80psi on cold starts, 20-60psi on cruise or normal driving, and up to about 80psi at WOT.

also, when installing an oil pressure guage, does the size of the oil lines used increase/decrease the oil pressure? I would assume using a larger line would lower pressure?</TD></TR></TABLE>


That is basically what I am running, so those numbers seem good

 

finished product, worked out well. relocated dimmer **** on the console panel.




had to modify the bezel a bit in the back to make the temp and fuel gauges more visible. you have to get up closer to see the entire temp and fuel gauge but they are there! the bezel is from OBX y0! and cost $15 on eGay. wiring all these gauges at once was a fuggin bitch.


Modified by clip the apex at 5:37 PM 4/24/2006

 

Looks good. Simple and clean . If I ran a bigger steering wheel I'd place my gauges there. The two I have in the bezel are even cut off. I need to relocate, AGAIN .

 

visibility for the A/F and Boost gauge is fine for me because I sit relatively close and have the wheel pretty low. anyone that sits further back may have a problem seeing them due to the blinker and wiper control arms.

 

Yeah, I run a 320mm wheel so I can barely see the tach . Actually with my new bucket seat I'm pitched backwards a bit so it helped compared to the stock seat.

Love the dimmer switch relocate . That's hot.