im posting this for my buddy.. he has a 91 crx si with a ls vtec.. hook ups did the work and hey payed like 3k for it.. i went to his house the other day cuz his wheel was about to fall off and the damn axle nut wasnt even on there on the right side so we got that fixed and i was looking at his computer and they are using a pr4.. isnt that an integra ls computer??

then i see some msd rpm activation switch with a 3000 chip in it but still theres no vtec.. i even hooked the vtec solinoid up to a switch and tryed switching it at higher rpms and still nothing.. i mean.. i can hear my single cam vtec engagement but his isnt working.. the solinoid works i hear it click but vtec doesnt work at all..

i told him to take it back to hook ups but he doesnt want to because it took them 3 months to do the swap and all the stuff tahts going wrong with it like no axle nut no vtec he doesnt want to wait again..

any help would be appreciated

 

your friend is a *****, go back there and demand they fix their half *** job. tell him educate himself before he has **** done, tell them exactly what you want and how you want it done. what a dip$hit.

 

single cam Vtec *thud* hahahaahah

 

He paid $3k and they hooked up a rpm activated switch, damn he got ripped off.

 

well i recoomended the shop to him.. my friend daniel got his ls vtec done by them and it was a bitchen job.. im gonna go back with him in a couple of days and tell them they ghetto rigged that **** hardcore

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6 DOHC ED9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">single cam Vtec *thud* hahahaahah </TD></TR></TABLE>

watch what you say about sing cam vtak y0! ...

my best advice would be to go back there with your buddy and make them fix there bullshit half *** job for free, and than i would steal 1k back out of the cash register and run with it cuz he got ripped off hard core...

 

When you use that rpm switch you have to use a 30 amp 5 way relay(Im pretty sure)..

Yes the pr4 is an integra nonvtec ecu..My advice to you is chip the pr4 ecu with a program called turboedit ,,do custom fuel/timing maps for the lsvtec..Also the turboedit program can control vtec even in nonvtec ecus,,it use the a/c clutch relay to engage vtec...I dont know what kind of unprofessional shop this was man,but thats pretty messed up how they rigged it like that..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siregcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i told him to take it back to hook ups but he doesnt want to because it took them 3 months to do the swap and all the stuff tahts going wrong with it like no axle nut no vtec he doesnt want to wait again..</TD></TR></TABLE>

WTF 3 months!! are they wrenching bolts with their fingers?

Tell him to get his *** back there and tell them he has no VETACH Seroiusly thats fuked up, i would be super pissed. Maybe he only got the LS motor, and there was never vtec to begin with? I hope he saved his receipts and proof. Sounds like he's in for some arguing, but its worth it. He doesn't have to give the car right back to them, just argue them to the ground, thats really shitty Go with him, and give em hell. 3.. months!! thats sick!!!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si0385. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">watch what you say about sing cam vtak y0! </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya thats right brother...

anyway... no hook ups is a bitchen company they are located in the city of industry california..theyve been around for 5 years they did a clean *** job.. the engine bay is clean as expletive.. its clean except the little ghetto **** they did.. they used the golden eagle kit.. ( i believe ) with the sandwich plate on the oil filter and they used the obd0 b16 head.. the pr3-2.. i checked it out to make shure they actually put the vtec head..

but we are going to go down there tomarrow.. he doesnt really now that much about honda's just that he wanted a good motor in his car and he wanted the ls vtec it was my idea to go to hookups..

but ill keep u guys updated.. ill even take pictures of everything so u can see it

 

hey tell us what happens... on the bright side he has a good motor, and there's always a way to fix things

hope it works out

 

well.. he called them today cuz its an almost 2 hour drive so they said to come tomarrow... so hopefully they fix this ****... i dont know what the hell the rpm switch is for its just so much easier to use the right ecu.. i bet that thing would run lean as expletive with just the ls ecu in vtec... anyway.. ill keep u updated.. were going tomarrow for shure

 

he went down there without me so.. they told him they are using the right ecu.. haha ya.. i told him to ask them how the expletive does the pr4 run vtec.. and then why is the rpm switch hooked up to the vtec solinoid??

but i guess they said the vtec works that its just queit because its the 1st gen head but still i think they are full of ****.. and the shitty thing is .. on his way home he got pulled over for no reason and the motorcycle cop made him pop his hood and he got a bar ticket.. shitty huh

 

I cant believe that..What did they think you guys are idiots..? Oh yeah pr4 is a vtec ecu.. and the 1st gen b16 have queit vtec,, yeah right..

Since they seem like they're not going to do anything about it I think you should think about getting a different ecu or chipping the pr4 with turboedit or whatever..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.speaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I cant believe that..What did they think you guys are idiots..? Oh yeah pr4 is a vtec ecu.. and the 1st gen b16 have queit vtec,, yeah right..

Since they seem like they're not going to do anything about it I think you should think about getting a different ecu or chipping the pr4 with turboedit or whatever..</TD></TR></TABLE>

it doesnt matter dude.. there is no vtec whatsoever... i hooked it up to a switch and tried activating it a high rpms.. something u would notice the difference.. at 6500.. no difference idk what to do.. he got a bar ticket so he cant drive it until it gets bar'd.. idk how u bar a ls vtec sooo...

i told him he should have waited for me to go im gonna make him go again and take me with him so i can tell the guys its not working and they need to fix this crap *** rpm switch **** and use a pwo b16 computer or a pr3 but well see what happens...

so ya.. hookups is a bad company.. thought they were good but they are bad..

 

first off i gott to agree with the rest of the fellas' on here man

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90_EF_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your friend is a *****, go back there and demand they fix their half *** job. tell him educate himself before he has **** done, tell them exactly what you want and how you want it done. what a dip$hit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pinecone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He paid $3k and they hooked up a rpm activated switch, damn he got ripped off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and in the 3k price.. does that include the whole swap w/motor? pr4 is an ls ecu, tell the daym shop too look on ebay and also <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si0385. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my best advice would be to go back there with your buddy and make them fix there bullshit half *** job for free, and than i would steal 1k back out of the cash register and run with it cuz he got ripped off hard core...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would tell them to throw in a free oil change butt it seems like they can't be trusted
my buddy is charging me $400 to wire my 89 crx si to obd1 wift v-takkkk and it will only take him 3-5 hours to wire, clean *** work, looks' almost O.E.M. too and take me a 8-16 hrs to drop it in depending on how lazy or fast i want to work

 

this **** is fucked up, updates buddy!

 

ya he got a bar ticket so hes fucked so hes not worried about the car... but im gonna go over there and see if the vtec solinoid is getting oil to it make shure its getting enough oil pressure...

he doesnt want to keep going back because its a 2 hour drive.. but i told him that he needs to get his **** fixed the way its supposed to be... hahaha i have a vx vtec e motor and i took him for a ride.. and said. hey this is what its supposed to sound like but a **** load louder.. and he agreed that his vtec isnt working...

his next day off.. im gonna make him drive down there and im gonna talk to the people there at HOOK UPS because obviously he doesnt know that much about whats right and whats **** rigged...

ANYBODY KNOW HOW TO BAR A B18B1/B16A1 ls/vtec in a 91 crx???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pArAdOxsqUArE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my buddy is charging me $400 to wire my 89 crx si to obd1 wift v-takkkk and it will only take him 3-5 hours to wire, clean *** work, looks' almost O.E.M. too and take me a 8-16 hrs to drop it in depending on how lazy or fast i want to work </TD></TR></TABLE>

oh ya.. its easy to convert the car obd0 to obd1.. i did it in a friends crx.. all we needed was the jumper harness 4 wire o2 and the obd1 dizzy.. took an hour to do it, its easy

 

Does one bar an ls/vtec as if it were a b18a? since the block is stamped b18...? or do they actually look at the head?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siregcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oh ya.. its easy to convert the car obd0 to obd1.. i did it in a friends crx.. all we needed was the jumper harness 4 wire o2 and the obd1 dizzy.. took an hour to do it, its easy</TD></TR></TABLE>

first off my buddy is doing everything from scratch cause he knows his siet, 2nd, i ain't gonna pay him and then buy some harness to make it even easier, gott to get my moneys' worth and save me like $100-$250 on top of what he's charging me. like the rest of us on here we are all on a budget, and he does top knotch siet, O.E.M. style wiring bro'

then help your buddy out and get his siet bar'd so after he actually PASSES you can drop in the ls_v-tec motor worry free...and if you can do the wiring then i think he would've saved a shitt load of money if you would've just helped him do the swap in the first place and BTW you didn't mention if he paid $3G of labor or for the entire swap w/installation.

also the INFAMOUS LS V-tec wasn't offered in the US market so it's not going to get bar'd.. if it does BIGG UPS to you and a TRUE BAY AREA DUMMIE RETAREDDDDD reff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reelizmpro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does one bar an ls/vtec as if it were a b18a? since the block is stamped b18...? or do they actually look at the head? </TD></TR></TABLE>

They should look at the head. If not, they probably wont be a REF for very long. The only real way to "pass" is to BAR a full LS motor (either b18a or b18b) and then swap on the VTEC head after you get your BAR sticker. Regular hole-in-the wall smog shops generally will know that you have a swap, so you show them the BAR sticker, but typically won't know the differences between non-VTEC and VTEC heads (especially if you shave the word "VTEC" off of it)..

Thats the only way I've heard of people getting around having an LS/VTEC when it comes to a BAR examination.

 

what's this bar stuff? I hadnt heard about it before

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sLcREX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's this bar stuff? I hadnt heard about it before</TD></TR></TABLE>

In California, an engine swap is illegal in the sense that it wont pass a "visual" smog inspection. Regular smog shops will usually know that the engine is not the stock engine and will not perform a test on it. So, you have to take it to a smog "Referee" in order to get the car inspected to ensure that the swap was done correctly and that there is no reason for it to be polluting any more than a regular car.

The engine has to be:
1) from the same year or newer as the car it is going into (ex. no 1990 engines in a 1991 car)
2.) hooked up both physically and electronically like the car it came from. In my case, with a 1995 USDM B18C1, I had to convert to obd1 and run a USDM p72 computer. It must retain all emissions equipment and connections that were on the car it originally came from.

Also, all intake/exhaust manifolds have to be OEM units, or ones with CARB exemption numbers.

After it passes the visual inspection, they will put it on the rollers and do a tailpipe test. If you pass both, you get a nifty little sticker like this:


From now on, you can get your car tested at any smog shop, and they cannot turn you away on the basis of not having the stock engine installed in the car. It also tells a police officer that you have got a legitimate swap if/when he/she asks you to pop your hood.

It sounds really difficult and extensive, but its REALLY not that bad. The people who say it is, generally have not even tried going through the process.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pArAdOxsqUArE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first off my buddy is doing everything from scratch cause he knows his siet, 2nd, i ain't gonna pay him and then buy some harness to make it even easier, gott to get my moneys' worth and save me like $100-$250 on top of what he's charging me. like the rest of us on here we are all on a budget, and he does top knotch siet, O.E.M. style wiring bro'[/B]reff</TD></TR></TABLE>

good.. im glad for you man.. save some money.. i dont have funds either.. (ie i been running single cams for 7 years ) and not swapped for a b or h or anything else...

it made things alot easier to just get the jumper harness and repin the dizzy and wire the 4 wire o2.. plus.. i dont charge friends i hook them up...

umm anyway...he bought the ls long block and then payed 3 gz for a obd0 b16 swap and for them to put it in.. i think he got ripped off for damn shure and for all this **** go wrong there is no ******* doubt about that.. and that is the exact ******* reason why i have never taken my car to a shop for anything more than tires ... shops find the people that dont know too much and rip them off.. its everywhere.. not just hookups.. i know plenty of shops that go out of their way to rip off newbs..

this ***** gonna get taken care of thats for shure.....

and to the guy saying people dont know about bar.. ummm i been to bar 4 times for an illegal intake.. its a bitch to pass..haha scenerio 92 honda civic cx hatchback.. with a 94 d16z6 complete harness ecu everything.. the problem.. haha idk how the expletive this happens.. timing was off 9 degrees each time.. the bar ref in san jacinto is ******* stupid.. i fought it in court each time and won.. and didnt have to get bar'd

 

an ls/vtec cant be bard because its a hybrid. Im going to school for automitve tech stuff and my teacher is the Ref at Rio hondo college in Whittier CA. In order to get a swap bar'd, it must be newer than the car and has to be offered in the U.S. So that means that anyone with a 1990 or newer car like me with a Dohc ZC is fucked. The swap must have all the emissions crap hooked up correctly and pass the tests. I think its only 30 bucks for the test.

GO get the block restamped and go get it reff'd