Alright, so heres the info on my car

1999 Civic Ex

B18b1 motor swap
b16a tranny
b18b starter
p75 ecu with crome
99 civic ex wiring harness ( auto )
New timing belt
Cometic headgasket
ARP headstuds
turbo kit
RC 550cc injectors
Hi Flow fuel Rail
Walbro 255lph fuel pump

blah blah, the list goes on.

The car its in








































Modified by JayDiemB18bCivic at 5:45 PM 4/23/2006

 

Did you actually check for fuel and spark? Or did you just assume that since you heard your fuel pump that you had it?


Yea, it could be a timing issue but I really doubt it. That motor is an interferance eninge. Which means that the pistion and valves all occupy the same point at different periods of time. If the timing is off they may end up occupying it at the same time and crashing into one another. And if it was off by one tooth it would start, sputter, cough and then die. Pull the plugs out and put them into the plug wires. Let them sit on the valve cover and crank the engine. See spark on all of them? (If it comes off the sid of the plug don't worry, that's just because you have them resting on the valve cover.) Get a fuel pressure gauge, hook it up. Crank the engine. Have fuel pressure?

After doing all of this then come back and ask again. There are entirely too many things on todays engines that will cause a crank no start. And I learned a long time ago not to play the guessing game.

 

Try taking your dizzy to Autozone and get it tested. Sounds like you are not getting a spark to ignite the gas.

Check battery voltage and spark plugs. Is the check engine light on?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monsterb18b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try taking your dizzy to Autozone and get it tested. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why? You can test it at home very easily. And besides, the majority of the people whom work at auto zone are derelicts that only want to try and sell you something.

 

thanks a lot man, yea I'll have to check when I pull the plugs to see if I have spark. Would they have a fuel pressure gauge or something along the lines of a tester for fp at like advanced or autozone?

 

what type of management to you have to control those huge injectors? I'm sure you know the car won't run with those injectors unless you have something tuning it.

Also, if the car isn't turning over easily, I'd definately check the cam timing. The only reason the engine wouldn't turn over easily when cranking is if there is some obstruction preventing it from cranking.

If you tried to start the car with those injectors and no tuning, you may have flooded the pistons, so take out the spark plugs and then crank it to shoot all the gas out. . . or be a bit safer and use a vaccume to suck it out, or just let it evaporate for some hours.

Then, it sounds dumb, but make sure the plug wires are going to the right spots. It's hard to tell from the pics, but I think the plug wires are wrong. triple check it.
B

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99CivicSiBrian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what type of management to you have to control those huge injectors? I'm sure you know the car won't run with those injectors unless you have something tuning it.

Also, if the car isn't turning over easily, I'd definately check the cam timing. The only reason the engine wouldn't turn over easily when cranking is if there is some obstruction preventing it from cranking.

If you tried to start the car with those injectors and no tuning, you may have flooded the pistons, so take out the spark plugs and then crank it to shoot all the gas out. . . or be a bit safer and use a vaccume to suck it out, or just let it evaporate for some hours.

Then, it sounds dumb, but make sure the plug wires are going to the right spots. It's hard to tell from the pics, but I think the plug wires are wrong. triple check it.
B</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, I'm running Crome with a basemap from J-k-Tuning and he made sure I included what size injectors and all mods to incorporate it to the basemap. The one night we almost had it goes we saw flames coming out the turbo manifold so I'm very certain theres spark. I will test it tonight though. Also, Should I try like starting fluid it help her out a little or just keep cranking it? What about this RPM signal wire? Nessesary to use? Another thing, I was told when using an obd1 ecu I dont have to connect up the crank position sensor located near the crank pulley. Would this be another reason why its not turning over at all? That could very well be my problem but never occured to me until now.

thanks for all the help guys

 

naah starting fluid isn't necessary.
I'd say triple-double-double check those plug wires. In the pic they look wrong, but the pic kinda lies. I'm trying to find my book or something so I can look.
As you look at it from the passengers side, it should be 1-3-4-2 going clockwise. The #1 cylinder is, of course, on the drivers side.

word.
B

 

you dont need the blue wire so dont worry about it, so you are using a 99 car a 99 harness and a obd2b to and obd1 jumper harness and an obd1 ecu, you converted your obd1 dissy to obd2? is this all correct?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99CivicSiBrian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">naah starting fluid isn't necessary.
I'd say triple-double-double check those plug wires. In the pic they look wrong, but the pic kinda lies. I'm trying to find my book or something so I can look.
As you look at it from the passengers side, it should be 1-3-4-2 going clockwise. The #1 cylinder is, of course, on the drivers side.

word.
B</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed they look completely backwards from the looks of the picture

 

yea I've got the hayness manual and looked at how the plugs should line up and thats all lined up correctly, just getting stumped.

we used the timing light on it and everything is perfect so I'm gettin stumped.

 

You could still have the timing light right but spark at the wrong time, it could be 180 degrees off is what I'm saying.

Move your #1 spark plug wire space, and go from there clockwise, 1-3-4-2
If that doesn't work, move your #1 one at a time and do tthe 1-3-4-2 until you go the whole way around. If it still doesn't work, I don't have much other advice at the moment. I'm kinda stumped too.

 

hey man, i really wanna help you out here. had this problem last week. check the starter ground(tranny ground). take the starter out and try to turn it with a battery and make sure its good. the ground is very immportant my car wasnt working because i had a bad tranny ground. since you have a new paint job make sure the ground wire is making contact with the body. pm me if you have any question ill be glad to help

 

you have to touch the selenoid when its out so it jumps out

 

another way to check to make sure your plug wires are correct is to put the engine at top dead center, stick your oil dipstick through the spark plug hole to make sure it's at top dead center, and then take your distributor cap off and see where the rotor button is, that's your number one cylinder and then adjust the rest of you wires accordingly, 1-3-4-2

 

I doubt it would be 180 out because of JDM-97CX's comment of it being an interference motor. Valve to piston contact would occur. However if the mechanic who installed the timing belt/water pump blah blah blah, lined up the cam and crank marks on the wrong stroke it would look like all is ok until he turns the motor by hand. Anyway, I don't think this is the case. Also, how did you check the timing with the motor not running? This would not be an accurate reading.

My thought, the wiring on the dizzy plug needs to be check again. and again. and again. If not, whatever.

Good luck

 

bump with a new problem, read the first post I have

 

make sure you have the air intake tempreture sensor pluged and functioning. also check the map sensor

 

180 degrees wouldn't cause interference, it would be 90 degrees that cause problems. Remember, the top turns once for every 2 times the bottom turns, thus if the top end was 180 degrees off, the bottom could still have #1 at TDC but the wrong one. Also remember, #1 and #4 will be at TDC at the same time, but obviously at different points in the 'suck-squish-bang-blow' cycle.
Werd.
B

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JayDiemB18bCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump with a new problem, read the first post I have </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok..
That kinda sounds like one of 2 things- Safe mode, or some sensors reversed. Make sure the MAP sensor and TPS sensor plugs haven't been switched. Reset the codes first, then switch the plugs, and see what happens when you start it. . .
Or of course see what codes you're getting and go from there.


Were the plug wires wrong as we thought, or was it something else?
B

 

dunno bout that i test drove a hatch with same problem maybe timing?

 

what codes is the CEL giving you, could be something wrong with the ROM in your ECU.....

 

i say it has a bad ecu

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeSiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i say it has a bad ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicMike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what codes is the CEL giving you, could be something wrong with the ROM in your ECU.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope, I swapped out 3 different ecu's and it does the same thing on every one of them.

I'm going to scan it today and get the codes and work from there. thanks 99civicSiBrian

 

good luck on the problem..... Is that ssautochrome mani?