Hi..

im wondering about getting some 18" ADR Spade Gun Metall rims for my Accord with some 225/40-18 tires..
anyone know if this will go on the car without any problem.. it`s lowered 35mm..

The roads here in Norway is not so good, so 35 profile is not an option..

 

Is this for the 1990 accord in your sig? I have no idea what a CB3 is.

the 90 accord came with 195/60-15 tires. 225/40-18 is 3.6% larger in diameter. Thats too much in my opinion. It is also 30mm wider than stock, again too much. This will most likely lead to rubbing. 215/40-18 might be more appropriate with only 2.3% bigger diameter and 20mm wider than stock. It's still pretty big and might lead to rubbing. If you are worried about the roads then don't get 18" rims. You want a tire with an overall diameter that is the same as stock. What decides how big the side wall will be is not the profile ratio but rather the size of the wheel.

205/40-18 would be the best. I am not sure how popular that size is.

 

My Accord came with 185/70-14 (The Cb7, 2.2i has 15" original)..
i used a calculator to figure out the % difference and it came out good ..

 

Worry about the width. 40mm wider is a big difference.

 

When i say Width, do you mean Offset ??
if so: my original Offsett is 50, and the 18" rims are 42..

i think i will go for 17" with 215/45 :D more comfort on these bumpy roads..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Oyrein &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When i say Width, do you mean Offset ??</TD></TR></TABLE>

He means the width of the tread (185 or 225 mm).

You have a high probability of rubbing any time you use tires that are more than 1 percent larger in diameter than stock and which are more than 20 mm wider than stock.

Since your car came with 185/70-14 stock, I recommend 215/35-18 for 18" wheels (1.1 percent smaller outer diameter than stock), or 205/45-17 for 17" wheels (0.3 percent larger outer diameter than stock). I don't recommend 215/45-17 because it will probably rub, since it's 1.7 percent larger than stock and 30 mm wider.

 

Ok, thanks for the info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

He means the width of the tread (185 or 225 mm).

You have a high probability of rubbing any time you use tires that are more than 1 percent larger in diameter than stock and which are more than 20 mm wider than stock.

Since your car came with 185/70-14 stock, I recommend 215/35-18 for 18" wheels (1.1 percent smaller outer diameter than stock), or 205/45-17 for 17" wheels (0.3 percent larger outer diameter than stock). I don't recommend 215/45-17 because it will probably rub, since it's 1.7 percent larger than stock and 30 mm wider.
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Not to come off like a jerk, but do you guys realize that a lot of your calculations are somewhat meaningless to an extent? Let me explain. You think too much in percentage as opposed to inches. The jump from a 185-70-14 to a 215-45-17 is less than half an inch in overall tire diameter. Granted it exceeds your percentage rule (which if adhered to will always provide your desired results), but it will work and not rub. I know this from experience.

Quite often it's very difficult to determine what will and will not work without the vehicle in front of you. I know this because i have worked on both sides for the last 4 years of my life (3 years running a custom wheel/tire shop and 1 year as a wheel specialist for the West Palm Beach branch of the largest wheel/tire distributor in the country). Anyways, i'm just ranting now. My whole point is this....Although your percentage rules and formulas will keep you in the safe zone, they are far from a means to an end.

As far as this situation is concerned, i would run the 215-45-17 instead of the reccomended 205-45-17. Mainly because it is a more popular size and there should be more options available with better pricing.

 

The percentage thing is also to keep the speedo and odometer accurate.

Yes every car is different and there is no rule set in stone. These are just generalizations, every car is different. Throw in offset and it's an even bigger pain.

Safe side, probably. But I would rather recommend someone tires that are in the safe side rather then recommend tires that will rub. Besides which there is usually never any good reason to go crazy oversize.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Green JDM-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to come off like a jerk, but do you guys realize that a lot of your calculations are somewhat meaningless to an extent?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are NOT meaningless. The percentages are VERY meaningful because, as old man neri points out, they tell how much your speedometer and odometer will be off. Sure, it may only represent half an inch in diameter, but very often that is the difference between rubbing and not rubbing. And there's no reason to get a tire with the wrong diameter when there are plenty of tires out there with the proper diameter.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Green JDM-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quite often it's very difficult to determine what will and will not work without the vehicle in front of you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's true regarding rubbing, but usually not true when it comes to the speedometer and odometer error (except when a tire manufacturer has a tire size that is not exactly the same as other tires labeled with the same nominal size) or the fact that the car will accelerate slower with larger diameter tires.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Green JDM-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know this because i have worked on both sides for the last 4 years of my life (3 years running a custom wheel/tire shop and 1 year as a wheel specialist for the West Palm Beach branch of the largest wheel/tire distributor in the country).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry to say, but I've seen a lot of people who work at wheel and tire dealers who don't really care what will work best, and are more than happy to sell people the biggest wheels and the biggest tires they can, without telling them what is likely to rub or throw off the speedometer. Whether that is because they make more profit the bigger the wheels and tires, or because they think that's what the customer wants and don't try to educate them, in either case many dealers are just not very good at helping customers decide what is best. And they have a financial interest in selling them bigger wheels and tires.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Green JDM-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Although your percentage rules and formulas will keep you in the safe zone, they are far from a means to an end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The safe zone is where people should be buying, rather than buying a size that will definitely throw off their speedometer and odometer and may or may not rub on the car. Why take the chance on spending a lot of money on wheels and tires that might not fit?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Green JDM-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as this situation is concerned, i would run the 215-45-17 instead of the reccomended 205-45-17. Mainly because it is a more popular size and there should be more options available with better pricing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I try not to recommend tire sizes which have few options. But I recommend that size because plenty of excellent tires are available in 205/45-17, including expensive top-of-the-line tires (Bridgestone Potenza RE050A, Continental ContiSportContact 2, Dunlop SP Sport Maxx) as well as less expensive budget performance tires (BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2, Dunlop Direzza DZ101).