I am putting together my prelude right now, and I am a little worried that I will not be able to hit 700+whp on boost alone, so I was wondering if it would be a good idea to add a direct port setup to reach my goal. I have seen this turbo make 600-650, but that is the max I have seen, and I think that I am going to need more than that to get my prelude to a 10.99 or better slip, so let me know what you guys think, thanks.

Setup:
2001 Prelude
87mm H22a4
Benson Sleeved
CP 9:1
Pauter rods
Portflow Head
Supertech Valvetrain .5mm over
Blacktrax Intake manifold
Precision GT35R T4 .68a/r
Onefab Topmount
3" Dump
Turbosmart 48mm Gate
Turbosmart Eboost 2
Neptune

 

well they preach that the max power of the 35R is 650 but we have seen jeff evans push a 30R in that power range, i would say you mau not neeed the spray but it would always be nice to have

 

Your worried your only going to make 650whp? I wish I was worried like that lol. That should be plenty of horsepower to run 10's dude, even in your prelude.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your worried your only going to make 650whp? I wish I was worried like that lol. That should be plenty of horsepower to run 10's dude, even in your prelude.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha word

 

Yeah, Im sure with alot of tuning I might be able to get closer to my goal, but am I really digging myself a hole by thinking on squeezing with boost, because I dont want to blow the motor if I get greedy you know. I have another question. When a turbo is rated at say 650 whp, does that mean that thats about the max power that the TURBO can push or max power the SETUP can push, because lest say you make 650 and it is maxing the turbo, but then add cams, etc, then can you make the same gain of power that you woluld at a lower psi that the turbo would at the max psi? Sorry if my questions sound dumb, I have been up since 3:30 am.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your worried your only going to make 650whp? I wish I was worried like that lol. That should be plenty of horsepower to run 10's dude, even in your prelude.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks alot man, I really hope so. I just know I have a fat (not phat) *** car, and Its not like running 10's in a crx you know. I am always tempted to just throw it in an EG and call it a day. 650whp in a hatch can do wonderful things.

 

if you were really worried about it you could always up the CR a hair to gain a little bit. but yes search Turbo cams and there are a ton of topics on hp gains just from cams and cam timing. just dont get too greedy haha im shooting for 600 but will settle for 5-550 haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6-213 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks alot man, I really hope so. I just know I have a fat (not phat) *** car, and Its not like running 10's in a crx you know. I am always tempted to just throw it in an EG and call it a day. 650whp in a hatch can do wonderful things.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha we had a budget race hatch that ran a 11.8 with a stock H22 just had ignition, clutch, homemade intake haha and a 100 shot with slicks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllmotorEH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

haha we had a budget race hatch that ran a 11.8 with a stock H22 just had ignition, clutch, homemade intake haha and a 100 shot with slicks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dayumm

 

More Displacement is the key...but with you setup now I would concentrate on the chassie and put that power to the ground...also take some weight off. Im ditchin my tank and cutting out my trunk bed and welding in new bottom with fuel cell.

 

With a setup like that I would definitly put a little direct port kit on there. A little nitrous with a big turbo is a ton of fun. Weather or not you "need" it really doesn't matter, it will be there when you want it. The only thing more fun that 700hp is 800hp. Hit me up if you get serious about the nitrous.

 

haha, kind of how dean hooked me up for my nitrous, i was like i have a gt35e, i want 700whp, he said a direct port will help solve everything....




Dean just sold a direct port setup to my friend with a 2.4L h22a with gt3567r, so a 75 shot never hurts anything.

 

Its true, nitrous soleves everything lol. When do you plan on turning the spray on???

 

What type of nitrous setups do people typically run when running turbo? Direct port or single fogger?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6-213 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks alot man, I really hope so. I just know I have a fat (not phat) *** car, and Its not like running 10's in a crx you know. I am always tempted to just throw it in an EG and call it a day. 650whp in a hatch can do wonderful things.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And obviously you have no idea how light your prelude still is. Focus on TRACTION, not horsepower to get you into the 10's. Reduce wheelspin and focus on getting the car down the track and 650 WHP could take your heavy prelude to bottom 10's or even 9's if you really figure the setup out.

 

dean, the nitrous is wired up, i'm just trying to get my distributor to stop leaking oil before i start doing race gas tunes. and the nitrous isn't going to be engaged until i have a tank of c16 in the car, as 16psi right now is already nuts.

never fear, dyno graphs will be posted though

i'm doing a 75 shot direct wet system, but using hondata to engage/disengage the juice. I'm doing it for more top end power, i'm going to have it kick in at 70mph and at a minimum of 5psi with it kicking off at 25psi and 9400rpms, with my redline sitting at 9800rpms.

one big thing i see is that i need to upgrade from my .63ar to a .82ar as with boost along, top end is falling off and i have CTR cams.

 

Right on man. Well Dave's system just showed up here today so I will be sending it out later this afternoon. That polished bottle is pretty f'n cool, I think im going to have to start ordering them like that from now on.

 

he told me about getting the polished bottle, makes me want one now is there an easy way to upgrade hehe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6-213 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have another question. When a turbo is rated at say 650 whp, does that mean that thats about the max power that the TURBO can push or max power the SETUP can push, because lest say you make 650 and it is maxing the turbo, but then add cams, etc, then can you make the same gain of power that you woluld at a lower psi that the turbo would at the max psi? Sorry if my questions sound dumb, I have been up since 3:30 am.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The turbo is rated in CFM, not HP typically - they convert CFM to an average HP rating based on an average engine's efficiency. When you upgrade your engine's efficiency - better manifold, better flow head, higher CR pistons, yadda yadda - you can make more power with the same amount of air (CFM), and that is how you can push past that 650 mark. psi just helps you figure out where on the efficiency islands you are, IMO, not that important.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, that's how I see it

 

The limiting factor on turbos is actually their rating in airflow measured in lbs/min. The BSFC (brake specific fuel consumption) of your engine is a measurement of efficiency that does play a bit of a role.

In this case 800hp @ .5 BSFC = 400lb/hr of fuel (800x.5). 400lb/hr of fuel or 6.67lb/min (400/60). Assuming a 12:1 air/fuel ratio that gives us 80 lb/min of airflow (6.67x12). This is how it all relates and why you usually hear people say that every lb/min of airflow a turbo flows equates to roughly 10HP.

The one caveat to all of this is that the rated flow numbers on the turbo are at a static RPM (usually 72,000 RPM I think) and as with all "pumps" if you work them faster they pump more..... just less efficiently.