Im having a weird problem that i cannot fix. I had a 2.0l LSVTEC motor with a B16 HYDRO tranny in a 91 CRX SI. I have the HASPORT hydro conversion. Car ran great. I ended up buying a 88 HF CRX an swapping EVERYTHING over to the lighter chassis.

I got the motor to run, however, the car WILL NOT GO IN GEAR. The only thing i changed between cars was i bought a BRAND NEW Competitoin Stage 4 SPRUNG clutch (my old clutch was a CM Stage 5 UNSPRUNG). I am using the same flywheel.

Now, when i push the clutch cable down, the RELEASE fork only moves 1/4in. its not moving enough to disengage the clutch. I haVE REPLACED:

REALEASE FORK
ANOTHER COMPETITION STAGE 4 CLUTCH
THROWOUT BEARING

car still has the same problem. CANNOT figure it out, , anyone had similar problems

 

Just throwing this out there, but what clutch cable are you using?


Is the clutch pedal broke? My old CRX had a broke clutch pedal, and it's pretty common with all the pressure from the cable (especially old cables that don't move smoothly)

My vote is clutch pedal is broke

 

1. alignment tool when u did clutch (if u didnt
2. bleed the slave and master cylinder (possible of air)
3. Check your shift linkage. maybe bent or something blocking it
4. check your master cylinder for air or replace if neccessary
5. Double check if you put any in backwards when you did the clutch swap.

Thats all i can think of now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznboi_2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. bleed the slave and master cylinder (possible of air)

4. check your master cylinder for air or replace if neccessary
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No hydraulics involved......all cable.

 

I had a similar problem, ended up being the rubber bushing was crushing almost flat at the very end of the cable, ended up welding up a sleve to keep it from happening.

 

it has a new clutch cable on it (91 CRX SI)

i shimmed the rubber bushing at th end of the cable, i thought of that as well.

only difference i see is that my JDM tranny has a smaller BALL where the release fork sits on than a USDM tranny. hmmmm

 

Does the fork pivot on the ball? Or did/does it come off?

 

sounds like they might of sent you a clutch for a Cable B16 Tranny

 

Clutch is the same for all B series. (I think)

 

adjust the linkage that goes from the cable to the clutch fork, u might need to lengthen it so the travel is longer. Ive had a couple problems with mine and ive emailed hasport a couple times and never got an answer. ALso watch you dont adjust it too long or the clutch will be partial engaged adn might burn up.




Modified by Boosted Chemist at 1:19 PM 4/4/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clutch is the same for all B series. (I think)</TD></TR></TABLE>

92-93 integra gsr has a larger spline as do the newer ls transmissions, i believe.

 

ive adjusted the linkage on the cable both directi0ns.
i put a bigger ball in the trans, and put a new shift fork on it, it DOES pivot.

Im running a 2800LB pressure Plate, im wondering if maybe there isnt enough force through the cable to apply enough pressure on the PP an Throwout Bearing

anyone run a really aggressive clutch in their EF?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive adjusted the linkage on the cable both directi0ns.
i put a bigger ball in the trans, and put a new shift fork on it, it DOES pivot.

Im running a 2800LB pressure Plate, im wondering if maybe there isnt enough force through the cable to apply enough pressure on the PP an Throwout Bearing

anyone run a really aggressive clutch in their EF?</TD></TR></TABLE>

im running a heavy clutch, action wtih unsprung 6 puck, trust me u need to mess around with the linkage. try loosening the cable all the way and makeing hte linkage tight so it almost engageing then use the cable to fine tune the adjustemnt

 

id double check the pedal assembely as stated above. pull it out and make sure it didnt break.

 

http://theoldone.com/articles/...c.htm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by theoldone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The basic problem with the cable to hydraulic conversion is one of flexation. There was so much movement in every direction that 2/3rds of the pedal travel was consumed before the clutch actually operated....and worse yet, you couldn't "feel" where the flexing stopped and the clutch was disengaging. Some of the fixes we came up with included: (A) Fabricating a steel bracket that supported the bottom of the billet aluminum upper cable mount to prevent it from bending. (B) Making an internal bearing spacer to reduce the slop between the ball bearing and it's retaining snap-ring. We also machined the arm to allow the insertion of a thrust bearing to prevent movement in planes other than the one in-line with the throw-out arm end. (C & D) We canned the Hasport billet connecting arm because it never pivoted properly on the throw-out arm and we fabricated a simple heim-jointed arm that has better freedom of movement...

After all this, the cable flexed too much at it's upper attachment, wasting more pedal travel yet, so I fabbed a bolt-on support to eliminate it. As you can see, it captures the cable and holds in in a position where it's pulling straight on the lower arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>


.....check the bottom of the page for more on the subject.

 

I just emailed brian from hasport, and linked him to this thread. MAybe he can shed some light on this issue

 

I agree with the whole movement thing. When I did my stage 2 clutch, my pedal would fall to the floor when I pushed it in. Ends up I had to immobilize the cable in about 3 places because there was wasted energy when the cable was moving around. Definitely worth doing. People usually mounted their clutch cable to a strut tower bar, as it is a convenient round place to mount something, but I just tucked it under a million places, and I have never had a problem since.

 

I have not had any trouble with my Hasport conversion, Poorsman type R with usdm type R tranny. It still shifts and engages good with my Exedy upsrung twin disk

 

I went an bought a MUCH lighter pressure plate. Im gonna install that an see what happens.

TO ME the ONLY thing left it can be is that there is energy and force lost between the clutch pedal on the Release fork through the Hasport kit. It simply cannot engage or in my case, disengage the super heavy 2800lb pressure plate. There isnt enough movment or adjustment to do it.

ill keep everyone posted

 

It sounds like the your problem might be one of two things. Either the pedal assembly might be flexing, or the cable conversion lever may be moving incorrectly. You say the release fork only moves 1/4 inch; how much does the cable move? The cable should move about 1 1/2 inches, if it doesn't then the pedal is flexing. BTW the 88-89 pedal assemblies are not as strong as the 90-91 pedal assemblies.

The release fork need to move about 4/10ths of an inch to disengage the clutch.



brian g

 

thanks for the response Brian, i did not know that about the Difference in years of the pedal assembly, ill check into that. I didnt see any flxing, but ill pay extra attention to it tonight.

Have you heard of anyone running a super aggressive PP with your kit? is it possible there isnt enough travel to disengage the clutch on a heavy PP?

thanks again

 

The CABLE moves on the upper arm about 1in. however the release fork only moves MAYBE 1.4in at the most.

 

Is the cable mounted to solid points so that it can't move? What do you mean by you shimmed the rubber bushing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The CABLE moves on the upper arm about 1in. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's not enough, your pedal assembly may be flexing or broken. It's hard to look at the assembly while operating the clutch but you should check it's operation both with and without load. You can also try measuring the cable travel with out it hooked up to the clutch.

I've had several cable conversions with stout clutches. K powered 88 CRX - Clutch Masters Stage 4, H powered 91 CRX - CLutch Masters Stage 4, B powered 91 CRX - Exedy Twin Disc. The Exedy required very careful adjustment to work.

 

FIXED THE PROBLEM.

I swapped my Clutch FROM a STAGE 5 1420-X Upgraded Pressure Plate to a REGULAR Stage 5 1420 non heavy duty pressure plate, car runs great, clutch engages fine.

So, if you have an EF with the HASPORT conversion, you cannot run the Competition Clutch Upgraded Pressure Plate, there is not enough movement to disengage the clutch.

I bet if you converted to hydro with a slave an MC or do what Endyn did, i bet you could prob get it to work.