Give me your input everyone. Just got my little turd back from some dyno time and here is what I got:




Specs:

96 B18B1 - stock crank, stock rods
CTR .010" over Pistons
Crower 404's, springs, retainers
RC370cc Injectors, stock FPR
Skunk2 Pro-series cam gears set at ZERO
Fidanza flywheel
Stock crank pulley
Stock head ports
Stock Intake Manifold and Throttle boddy
Ebay Tpro's header (outlet measured 2 1/8")
K&N FIPK intake kit


I was hoping for more, but would imagine there are more mods to help up the power and get it breathing better on the top end.

All opinions and critiques welcome!

***BIN file, edited with Crome, final tune for the dyno sheet you see!!!***
http://www.xenocron.com/bins/i...Crome&




Modified by gearhead313 at 1:01 PM 4/22/2006


Modified by gearhead313 at 1:03 PM 4/22/2006

 

Those cams w/ CTR OS'ed pistons are capable much more power than you're putting down.

These are the things that are holding you back:

Stock head ports ==>> (Get it PnP'ed by a reputable shop, valve job may be needed also)
Stock Intake Manifold and Throttle boddy ==>> (Get a shorter runner IM i.e. Skunk2/Blox/JG etc... and a bigger TB ~65-68mm)
Ebay Tpro's header (outlet measured 2 1/8") ==>> (I guess this is okay, but look into headers made by SMSP, Profab, RMF, etc...)

Goodluck with your setup

 

you should be able to find another 10-20hp in that thing... just have to know where yo look. also its not the head ports, im making 165 with the same head and cams. it looks like its just falling on its face early.... look at the dyno in my sig to compare.... id say ehader/exhaust and IM nee to be looked at if you want to go any further

 

I made 149 whp with just 403's and boltons. You have a lot left in that setup but as mentioned before get a better intake mani and exhaust and get it tuned well.

 

Thanks guys. I'll look into some of those parts.

Compared to everyone else, I sure hope there is more power in it! I think another thing that could be done to keep the power climbing is move those cam gears around.

+2in, -2ex is what a lot of people end up at, no?

 

You need one of these -

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1303887

I was making more power than that with a bone stock 110k mile engine (stock pistons, cams, etc).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need one of these -

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1303887

I was making more power than that with a bone stock 110k mile engine (stock pistons, cams, etc).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have any dyno information to confirm that? I'm debating on whether I am going to put the time into make one or not. I do like the long tube design.

 

yea i dont think your header is doing your setup justice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gearhead313 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you have any dyno information to confirm that? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldnt have said that if I didnt.

 

Oh, and your stock rods/rod bolts will NOT last long at 8,000 rpm.... either tear it down and put in ARP rod bolts, or keep the revs down.

 

so where's the numbers man?


I'm going to think about the header, I basicly am looking for an order to possibly start doing things in. I'm debating on making some ITB's for it at the moment.


I've heard the hype about LS rod bolts stretching when revving an LS, but I think that I'll be ok. I hard limit at 8k and try to shift 7600-7800.... as fast as it comes up! I'd be more worried if i was near 9k. If it ends up failing, i'll just tear it down and redo it, no biggie.

 

ok and when you spin a rod bearing and melt the bearing onto the crank and the crank is trashed then what? arp rod bolts are 30-40 bux... plus another 40-80 to have them installed in the rod and the rod resized....

 

I built the entire motor myself. I know the parts, I know the clearances. I'm not that worried if i have to toss a bearing or 2 in it. I dont want to turn this thread into whether or not my motor will stay together. I want to know if anyone else has had similar experience with different parts and hwo it changed the performance of the motor.


I'd still like to know if anyone has ITB'd an LS. Searching hasn't come up with much good LS info.

 

I have and have allways used the stock rod bolts on my LS builds. Never had any problems with them stretching or breaking, but then agian I allways shift before 8000. If you plan on going over 8000 rpms then yeah I recomend ARP, but no matter what you shouldnt be going over that in a LS. Good Luck!!

 

Awesome man. I'm sure that I'll be fine as well as you.

 

Man you should be makin more power than that.. My setup is in my sig

 

ya dude, i dont know what is up with my poopy motor.


The only thing I see is you have a good TB, intake mani and header. If I did those mods to mine, I think i'd be where you are at (hopefully higher!).

 

its funny too, i just noticed the mini-dip in the graph around 3700-3800... well i have been driving it around for a while now and noticed a little hicup in the power band around there and now I just looked at the graph and saw that. I'd hate to take it back to the dyno for just that though... humm

 

degreaser and lil paint my help w/ few more ponies...haha
jus playin, but numbers look decent..if it were me slap a vtec head on that bad boy

 

degreaser and lil paint my help w/ few more ponies...haha
jus playin, but numbers look decent

 

tuning would help you alot, and the same that was said by dc4kid, stock ontake manifold, TB and ports are what is holding you back the most

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMdc2lsVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tuning would help you alot, </TD></TR></TABLE>


That is fully dyno tuned.

 

to be honest it looks like it could use a tad bit more fuel, the last LS i did make right in the mid 150s, and i had to almost get it at 13.0 AFR to keep that power

 

also those injectors are way too big 310cc is fine not 370cc

 

When it was on the dyno, the pulls down in the 12's and low 13's wouldn't make the power. The more it was leaned out, the more power it made, as you can tell by the 2 different graphs there.


The 370's might be too much, but I wanted to be sure I wasn't going to run out of fuel based on the compression I had and the fact that I would only run pump gas in it. The tune is based on 370's. You could put 310s' in it, tune it to 13.7afr and all you are doing is firing the 310's a little harder. The initial output will be exactly the same.