I pulled a b16 out of my friends crx hf and put it into another hf crx. After that the car would start but would run ruff with a code 9. We sent the distributor back to Distributor King and they sent us a new one. After putting it back on the car started and ran soothly. It still had code 9 and now there is code 15 but you could drive it. Later on the car would die when started unless you held the gas, after you moved the car this problem stoped. does any one have any ideas on what the deal is?

 

bump

 

well code 9 is your CYL position sensor. code 15 is ignition output signal. If I remember correctly, the B16's CYL pos. sensor is in the dizzy (could be wrong), so something is still up with that. Though that doesn't make much sense if you just got a new dizzy.

But are you sure your wiring was done correctly? Something could be wrong there...

 

9 is the cyp, both 9 and 15 are in the dizzy though. I thought it was odd that the new dizzy didn't take care of the codes but it runs alot smother. I was wondering if it was somthing with the wiring, even though for the swap you don't have to touch any of those wires.

 

the CYP is the CYL pos. sensor. Somethin else has to be goin on... Did you reset the ECU after replacing the dizzy?

 

Yeah we reset the ecu, so it should be gone. I found a freind that had a dizzy kig dizzy and looked at the wires, and there was like 3 or 4 wires that were diffrent colors then the one I have.

 

I just got to see the car my self today after the new dizzy, and there isn't a code 15, it is just 9. Does any one know the dizzy wirring?

 

bump for the dizzy wiring

 

Well I think I have it. I'm pretty sure that it is a OBD1 Dizzy because of the wires on the dizzy. I found out what wires need to be changed by looking at a obd0 pr3 wires, and obd1 p30. I'm not going to find out untell wednesday night though.

 

I have a 95 accord that has the same code 15 and it drives for 1 or 2 miles and then it will slow down and eventually die with the check engine light on. Wait a couple of minutes and start it again and able to drive another mile and it dies again. Would I need to replace the distributor or something?

 

wow im getting cel 15 also and same thing happen when my car gets warm then it dies out on me and this is a new distributor if anyone here solve this problem please let us know how u guys did it... i would really appreciate it thanks

 

Subscribing cuz I have the same problem. I bought an ebay distributor(rebuilt). I'm throwing code 9 also. The car is fine until it starts to warm up then it throws it. It's wierd becuase I've been driving the car for a couple weeks now without this problem and now it's doing it...

 

i solve my problem: NEW DISTRIBUTOR is all you need make sure if u get something get the LIFETIME WARRANTY it saves u the hassle of getting a new one and MONEY...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgh22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I think I have it. I'm pretty sure that it is a OBD1 Dizzy because of the wires on the dizzy. I found out what wires need to be changed by looking at a obd0 pr3 wires, and obd1 p30. I'm not going to find out untell wednesday night though.</TD></TR></TABLE>the distributor is not OBD1 - the car won't run with OBD1 distributor and OBD0 ECU - what years are the 2 HFs? - did you use the engine harness for the HF that you just installed the engine into? - not all HF harnesses are the same - different between different years - wires are in different locations in the connectors even though the connectors are the same

 

When I did the swap I just pulled the motor with the harness and dropped it in the new one. I never thought of that. I'm at durp a durp on that one. The harness is a 91, and the car is a 89. Jlicrx your a life saver . now all I need a a wiring scamatic for the two and i can stop rattling my brain about what it is.