Surprised on 17s
You ran a mid-15 second quarter mile on 17 inch wheels?
I don't get the question... it's phrased funny.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ran just about what I thought I would (mid 15s). Is my best bet to find some 13s or 14s?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you ran 15s and you want to run 13s or 14s, then yes, find 13s and 14s through power adders and motor work.
But 14" wheels are good for drag racing.
I don't get the question... it's phrased funny.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ran just about what I thought I would (mid 15s). Is my best bet to find some 13s or 14s?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you ran 15s and you want to run 13s or 14s, then yes, find 13s and 14s through power adders and motor work.
But 14" wheels are good for drag racing.
^Yeah sorry bout that.
I rean mid 15s on my 17" wheels.
I don't have an orignial set of CRX wheels anymore.
Should I look into get 13" wheels or 14" wheels.
If 13" wheels are all I can find for cheap would that just be overkill?
I rean mid 15s on my 17" wheels.
I don't have an orignial set of CRX wheels anymore.
Should I look into get 13" wheels or 14" wheels.
If 13" wheels are all I can find for cheap would that just be overkill?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ***-assin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not some nice light 15s?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what i would do, but if you're on a somewhat tight budget, that might not be the best option. Are you looking for strictly track wheels? Also, what do you have done?
That's what i would do, but if you're on a somewhat tight budget, that might not be the best option. Are you looking for strictly track wheels? Also, what do you have done?
i had the same problem i went to the track the first couple times with 17's 40 series with decent tires then i found some 15's wheel with crappy all seasons on them from the junkyard , my 60ft stayed about the same but my time went down 2 to 4 tenths consistantly
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It all depends on the overall size of the tire and rim in comparision to your 17" ones. If they are as large overall as the 17" ones it wont make a difference. Make sure you take into account the profile of the rubber on the smaller rims before you choose anything. Also understand that larger wheels will make you go faster at top end but slower off the start. Smaller wheels will start faster but top end will be worse.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxforum »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also understand that larger wheels will make you go faster at top end but slower off the start. Smaller wheels will start faster but top end will be worse.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree. Traction being equal, the smaller wheels will be faster all around.
I disagree. Traction being equal, the smaller wheels will be faster all around.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mahatma »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I disagree. Traction being equal, the smaller wheels will be faster all around.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree,
as long as you dont run out of gear the smaller the wheel the better
I disagree. Traction being equal, the smaller wheels will be faster all around.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree,
as long as you dont run out of gear the smaller the wheel the better
if you have a Si, 13" will not clear the brakes, if you ever do a B swap, you will have to change the hubs to Si or DC Integra hubs, then again, 13" will not clear. I would get 14-15. I run 15's in the 11's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have a Si, 13" will not clear the brakes, if you ever do a B swap, you will have to change the hubs to Si or DC Integra hubs, then again, 13" will not clear. I would get 14-15. I run 15's in the 11's</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think this may only be true for the 90-91 si's...i had a 89 si and i had some vx's(13's) on there and no rubbing
i think this may only be true for the 90-91 si's...i had a 89 si and i had some vx's(13's) on there and no rubbing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PurpleEKHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think this may only be true for the 90-91 si's...i had a 89 si and i had some vx's(13's) on there and no rubbing</TD></TR></TABLE>
ahh, i didnt know that, mine was a 90 std before the surgery, good note
ahh, i didnt know that, mine was a 90 std before the surgery, good note
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have a Si, 13" will not clear the brakes, if you ever do a B swap, you will have to change the hubs to Si or DC Integra hubs, then again, 13" will not clear. I would get 14-15. I run 15's in the 11's</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've had a ton of different 13s on there with stock Si brakes, no problems.
I've had a ton of different 13s on there with stock Si brakes, no problems.
as coverd before, you must have the 89 and before, 90 to 91 and DC integra hubs need 14 and up, either that or someone jacked you and put some std brakes on your si hehe
hmm strange theories floating around.
heres the way it IS. hah.
if you have a 17in wheel there is more weight further from the center of rotation, which requires more power to turn. if you have 13in wheels the majority of the weight is close to the center of rotation, which means its easier to turn.
so the closer you can keep your weight to the centerpoint of roatation the less power it takes to turn the wheels= faster acceloration.
this also goes with rubber, choose a nice light tire, you can save pounds at the most important part of your wheel just by choosing the lightest tire you can.
also choose as low of profile on your rim that you can(assuming they are street tires). this wil further lower your rotational mass. but it will also mess with your speedo and ultimately your final drive ratio, so as long as you don't find yourself shifting too soon or ending up in a dead gear you will be fine
heres the way it IS. hah.
if you have a 17in wheel there is more weight further from the center of rotation, which requires more power to turn. if you have 13in wheels the majority of the weight is close to the center of rotation, which means its easier to turn.
so the closer you can keep your weight to the centerpoint of roatation the less power it takes to turn the wheels= faster acceloration.
this also goes with rubber, choose a nice light tire, you can save pounds at the most important part of your wheel just by choosing the lightest tire you can.
also choose as low of profile on your rim that you can(assuming they are street tires). this wil further lower your rotational mass. but it will also mess with your speedo and ultimately your final drive ratio, so as long as you don't find yourself shifting too soon or ending up in a dead gear you will be fine
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tek_civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm strange theories floating around.
heres the way it IS. hah.
if you have a 17in wheel there is more weight further from the center of rotation, which requires more power to turn. if you have 13in wheels the majority of the weight is close to the center of rotation, which means its easier to turn.
so the closer you can keep your weight to the centerpoint of roatation the less power it takes to turn the wheels= faster acceloration.
this also goes with rubber, choose a nice light tire, you can save pounds at the most important part of your wheel just by choosing the lightest tire you can.
also choose as low of profile on your rim that you can(assuming they are street tires). this wil further lower your rotational mass. but it will also mess with your speedo and ultimately your final drive ratio, so as long as you don't find yourself shifting too soon or ending up in a dead gear you will be fine</TD></TR></TABLE>
turning weight has nothing to do with wheels. Its about leverage and torque. and it works backwards with bigger wheels.
heres the way it IS. hah.
if you have a 17in wheel there is more weight further from the center of rotation, which requires more power to turn. if you have 13in wheels the majority of the weight is close to the center of rotation, which means its easier to turn.
so the closer you can keep your weight to the centerpoint of roatation the less power it takes to turn the wheels= faster acceloration.
this also goes with rubber, choose a nice light tire, you can save pounds at the most important part of your wheel just by choosing the lightest tire you can.
also choose as low of profile on your rim that you can(assuming they are street tires). this wil further lower your rotational mass. but it will also mess with your speedo and ultimately your final drive ratio, so as long as you don't find yourself shifting too soon or ending up in a dead gear you will be fine</TD></TR></TABLE>
turning weight has nothing to do with wheels. Its about leverage and torque. and it works backwards with bigger wheels.
i must have some wierd **** then, cause 13" dont fit on mine. maybe i have integra hubs. i changed them when swaping my b series, the person i got them from told me they were Si's



