Tokico Illuminas Install help
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From: Charleston, SC - Myrtle Beach, SC
Hey guys,
Just got done trying to install Tokico Illuminas and springs on my 90 CRX. I thought I had everything set up but when I went to tighten the strut bolt on top (it listed 40 lbs torque), the strut rod would turn and I couldn't tighten it. I thought there needed to be pressure on it, so I lowered the car and the rod pushed up along with the bushings. My main question is, does anyone have a diagram or order of how this is supposed to be set-up, just so I can double check my set-up? It seems like there should be a washer below the bushings but it didn't come with any. Anyone have any pics or anything??? I need to finish this tomorrow.
Thanks!!
Just got done trying to install Tokico Illuminas and springs on my 90 CRX. I thought I had everything set up but when I went to tighten the strut bolt on top (it listed 40 lbs torque), the strut rod would turn and I couldn't tighten it. I thought there needed to be pressure on it, so I lowered the car and the rod pushed up along with the bushings. My main question is, does anyone have a diagram or order of how this is supposed to be set-up, just so I can double check my set-up? It seems like there should be a washer below the bushings but it didn't come with any. Anyone have any pics or anything??? I need to finish this tomorrow.
Thanks!!
DO NOT use vise grips on the shaft, you will void the warranty. There's a hex key thing in the top of the shaft, but be careful with it, it can't take more than 25 ftlbs or so. If the adjustabe turn thing is in you will have to take it out to get the tool in.
edit: ^^^ You bastard, you beat me!
No dont use vise grips, especially on the polished portion of the shaft! Use an allen wrench to hold the rod from the top (look on the very tip of the rod, u will see a spot to insert the wrench). Also, i didnt follow the torque spec, i just snugged that nut till i felt it was good. I've never had any problems. Dont overtighten though, which is evident by how much the bushings compress.
No dont use vise grips, especially on the polished portion of the shaft! Use an allen wrench to hold the rod from the top (look on the very tip of the rod, u will see a spot to insert the wrench). Also, i didnt follow the torque spec, i just snugged that nut till i felt it was good. I've never had any problems. Dont overtighten though, which is evident by how much the bushings compress.
who fuggin cares about voiding warranty, im pretty sure it dopens't anyway, and plus, its an unreusab;e product, can you void motor oils warranty?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mavrick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who fuggin cares about voiding warranty, im pretty sure it dopens't anyway, and plus, its an unreusab;e product, can you void motor oils warranty?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I cant even understand what you just said. Like the other 2 guys said "DON'T use vise grips, it is clearly stated in the instructions
I cant even understand what you just said. Like the other 2 guys said "DON'T use vise grips, it is clearly stated in the instructions
Thread Starter
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From: Charleston, SC - Myrtle Beach, SC
Thanks for the responses guys, I thought I did everything right and was really pissed when it F*d up. I'd like to keep the warranty so I think I'll try the hex key first
So since when it forced up the rod, the bushings got out of the sleeve that they sit in, do you think i need to remove everything to get em back in or will they go back in when I drop the car?
One more question: Should I tighten that bolt with the car all the way down on it's wheels, up in the air, or just slight pressure??? Man I wish this **** came with better directions.
So since when it forced up the rod, the bushings got out of the sleeve that they sit in, do you think i need to remove everything to get em back in or will they go back in when I drop the car?
One more question: Should I tighten that bolt with the car all the way down on it's wheels, up in the air, or just slight pressure??? Man I wish this **** came with better directions.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doitdub »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
One more question: Should I tighten that bolt with the car all the way down on it's wheels, up in the air, or just slight pressure??? Man I wish this **** came with better directions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tighten the bolt with good amout of HAND pressure, while the wheels are in the air. Once it all said an done, re-tighten that same bolts but with the wheels are on the ground this time just to be sure that they are tight and safe.
One more question: Should I tighten that bolt with the car all the way down on it's wheels, up in the air, or just slight pressure??? Man I wish this **** came with better directions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tighten the bolt with good amout of HAND pressure, while the wheels are in the air. Once it all said an done, re-tighten that same bolts but with the wheels are on the ground this time just to be sure that they are tight and safe.
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From: Charleston, SC - Myrtle Beach, SC
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6 DOHC ED9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Tighten the bolt with good amout of HAND pressure, while the wheels are in the air. Once it all said an done, re-tighten that same bolts but with the wheels are on the ground this time just to be sure that they are tight and safe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, but then here's the follow up question... when I put the car down, it pushes up the strut rod and in turn the bushing. Should there be a washer under the body of the car, say under the bushing and above the bump stop??? I know the kit only came with one and I used that above directly underneath the lock nut up top.
Tighten the bolt with good amout of HAND pressure, while the wheels are in the air. Once it all said an done, re-tighten that same bolts but with the wheels are on the ground this time just to be sure that they are tight and safe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, but then here's the follow up question... when I put the car down, it pushes up the strut rod and in turn the bushing. Should there be a washer under the body of the car, say under the bushing and above the bump stop??? I know the kit only came with one and I used that above directly underneath the lock nut up top.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doitdub »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ok, but then here's the follow up question... when I put the car down, it pushes up the strut rod and in turn the bushing. Should there be a washer under the body of the car, say under the bushing and above the bump stop??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
You did something wrong there. Yes, there should be a large flat washer between the bump stop and bushing like you said. Also, make sure the metal sleeve is in there too (it goes inside the 2 bushings). You will need to reuse some of the old hardware (washers) if necessary.
However you took apart the old shocks, these ones are assembled in the same manner. Perhaps the previous shocks were assembled incorrectly?
The reason for NOT using vice grips is so you dont damage the polished portion of the shaft. The smoothness of the shaft is critical so you dont have premature failure of the shock and its seals.
Ok, but then here's the follow up question... when I put the car down, it pushes up the strut rod and in turn the bushing. Should there be a washer under the body of the car, say under the bushing and above the bump stop??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
You did something wrong there. Yes, there should be a large flat washer between the bump stop and bushing like you said. Also, make sure the metal sleeve is in there too (it goes inside the 2 bushings). You will need to reuse some of the old hardware (washers) if necessary.
However you took apart the old shocks, these ones are assembled in the same manner. Perhaps the previous shocks were assembled incorrectly?
The reason for NOT using vice grips is so you dont damage the polished portion of the shaft. The smoothness of the shaft is critical so you dont have premature failure of the shock and its seals.
Thread Starter
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From: Charleston, SC - Myrtle Beach, SC
I'd really like to but the car is at the parents house and didn't have the camera with me when I was there. Dang...
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Thanks guys, I saw that pic in the manual but I was questioning the washer. The "instuction" that came with the new shocks didn;t indicate that I needed to use the old washer, but I guess I do. I guess that's what the problem is.
I don't need to cut the bump stop too do I?
I don't need to cut the bump stop too do I?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doitdub »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't need to cut the bump stop too do I?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Generally speaking, on lowered vehicles they should be cut in half.
I don't need to cut the bump stop too do I?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Generally speaking, on lowered vehicles they should be cut in half.
Yes, you need to reuse some hardware, and like someone said, cut the bump stops in half if you are lowering it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mavrick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who fuggin cares about voiding warranty, im pretty sure it dopens't anyway, and plus, its an unreusab;e product, can you void motor oils warranty?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Obviously you don't have these shocks, or know much about them at all. First of all, they come with a big orange sticker on them that says do not touch the shock rod with any tools or it voids the warranty. The warranty is used if anything breaks, like if they blow, or if the top breaks off (happened to me twice) from over tightening. Judging from your other post in this thread, you shouldn't be giving him any advice about how to install these.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mavrick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who fuggin cares about voiding warranty, im pretty sure it dopens't anyway, and plus, its an unreusab;e product, can you void motor oils warranty?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Obviously you don't have these shocks, or know much about them at all. First of all, they come with a big orange sticker on them that says do not touch the shock rod with any tools or it voids the warranty. The warranty is used if anything breaks, like if they blow, or if the top breaks off (happened to me twice) from over tightening. Judging from your other post in this thread, you shouldn't be giving him any advice about how to install these.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6 DOHC ED9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cut the bump stops exactly in half </TD></TR></TABLE>
i never quite understood exactly why we do that..
i never quite understood exactly why we do that..
When you lower the car, you are basically removing compression travel. Cutting the bumpstop allows the shock to compress further before hitting a physical barrier. It basically frees up 1/2-1" of travel that would otherwise go unused.
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Ok well I will be cutting the bumpstops today and see how it goes. I guess I just figured I wouldn't have to cut anything because I got the Tokico Illumina struts w/ springs kit so I figured they would have provided the right size of bump stops. Pretty ******* stupid that you have to do that. Horrible directions that could have saved me a lot of time.
Thanks for your help guys!
Thanks for your help guys!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doitdub »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I guess I just figured I wouldn't have to cut anything because I got the Tokico Illumina struts w/ springs kit so I figured they would have provided the right size of bump stops.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had that same set up as you did. Although i didnt use the springs (i got the suspension kit for free!) they didnt look like they would lower the car too much. You might be able to get away with not cutting them. I used my GC coil overs with the shocks and i know im lower than what their springs would have gave me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had that same set up as you did. Although i didnt use the springs (i got the suspension kit for free!) they didnt look like they would lower the car too much. You might be able to get away with not cutting them. I used my GC coil overs with the shocks and i know im lower than what their springs would have gave me.
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I cut the bump stops in 1/2 and got everything together. Still haven't tuned it to the way I want it, but I'm hoping they settle because it didn't drop the car at all. Was only supposed to drop 1.5 inches, but it's about the same.
hey ive been thinking of getting some tien stype springs to replace my stock ones and get a little lower how much do you think that will lower my ride and will it be ok with my stock shocks for a little whyle..
Can you keep us updated on the set up. I'm thinking of getting the exact same deal for my 91 crx si. I'd like to know how much lower the car is after it settles and also if you are happy with it.
Thanks
Thanks


