just finish done my motor...hope can hit 210Whp

B16A head Port&Polish
Crower STage 3 camshaft and crower V.spring
Aebs Intake Manifold with 65mm T/body
B20B block with 85mm Bored forged pistons
Type-R oilpump and Block Guage
335CC JDM H22A injector
Chip Ecu with Vafc
Walbro 190 FUel Pump
B&M FPR


pls give me a best way to break in well my engine....
and wat A/F ratio i should set???
Low and High cam A/F ratio Diff????
Fuel pressure setting 2.vtec point should over 5.8K RPM?

 

On the dyno.

Its important that you get it tuned before you break it in, as if you run too lean some places or too rich can expletive you up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BolivianFuego &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On the dyno.

Its important that you get it tuned before you break it in, as if you run too lean some places or too rich can expletive you up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup yup...my motor got broken in on the dyno at Prostreet Import...ran it hard and abused the hell out of it and i was impressed with the power it put down

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acydphryck &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yup yup...my motor got broken in on the dyno at Prostreet Import...ran it hard and abused the hell out of it and i was impressed with the power it put down </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I'd like to second what was and add this caveat: get it street tuned also.

 

It seems that now everyone recommends taking a brand new build straight to the dyno for break-in. Back a few years ago everyone was saying break it in by going easy for the first 1000 miles. What gives?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GGhatchie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems that now everyone recommends taking a brand new build straight to the dyno for break-in. Back a few years ago everyone was saying break it in by going easy for the first 1000 miles. What gives? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, exactly. whats the deal? i've been told both. which is right?????????

 

it makes more sense to do it on the dyno. cuz you can screw up your engine big time driving it aroung untuned for 1000 miles

 

i only seen it once but there is some guy who did a study.

its a hard break in to only seat the rings and get the A/F right.(dyno)
Then take it easy for 1000 miles or so.

He had a site with piston pictures if you just take it easy etc. and other things.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinkMaggit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a hard break in to only seat the rings and get the A/F right.(dyno)
Then take it easy for 1000 miles or so. </TD></TR></TABLE>


that makes a little more sense, wouldn't happen to have a link for that study would ya????

 

Here's why breaking in your motor on the dyno is recommended.

http://laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm

 

Nice link

 

thanx for the link

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrackSpeedRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's why breaking in your motor on the dyno is recommended.

http://laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks

 

Do yourself a favor and break it in on the dyno after having the A/F setup correctly -- you wont regret it! Trailer/Tow your car to the dyno....best advice I can give...

 

Lots of great information. My build is definetely going to the tuner first because if I blow my engine after all this work bye bye cars forever.

 

A dyno doesn't make a good base map for you, a good tuner does, so doesn't matter whether you break it in on the dyno, the street or the track. If you know your engine combo theoretically, then you'll know at what rpms it will burn the most fuel and where it wants the most timing.


Modified by JerseySiPOS at 10:48 AM 4/6/2006