i found out the house fuse box is 120 feet away and i need 8g wire for it! 8gauge 3conductor wire will cost me 150+ for 120ft! plus an 80 amp double breaker and some corresponding outlet/plugs... guess i didnt read the fine print... o well, gotta let it sit as a paper weight again.

we assume we could just wire it into the Dryer, but that doesnt require enough power like the 200

any ideas on my wire dilemma?

 

i think you need #6 wire, especially for a run of 120ft. your #8 wire is gonna heat up!

 

I agree...long length to run, plus if you run any type of extension cord, its even longer.

I ran 8/3 for my 30ft run and 20ft extension cord

 

This is the exact reason people should start buying inverter machines. Most inverter machines on the market can do 200A at higher duty cycles while sucking down less than 30A. Take that transformers!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is the exact reason people should start buying inverter machines. Most inverter machines on the market can do 200A at higher duty cycles while sucking down less than 30A. Take that transformers!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are inverters those little breadbox-sized TIGs that I see everyone making now (like the little Miller)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are inverters those little breadbox-sized TIGs that I see everyone making now (like the little Miller)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.

 

i dont have that much money, sorry

 

Bummer man.

I would assume you can use the dryer/washer plugs to run the syncrowave? (Im not so good when it comes to electric, so what do I know )

Yea, Invertors are $$$$
Good luck though.

 

Inverters are not $$$. I will be proving that shortly, but thats neither here or there. The Thermal Arc Pro-wave 185 is all of $1800. Thats very similiar to the Miller Syncrowave 200. You get a whole lot more for your money with the TA machine. The reason why people buy Miller is because they build quality, long lasting machines. Because of this reason, they are able to sit back and re-use the technology they've been using for 30 years. Nothing wrong with the technology, its just out of date. If you look at Miller's top of the line, its an inverter machine. This is not a coincidence. Inverters just offer you a **** load of options that work insanely well because of the technology. Miller is just obviously less comfortable with the inverter technology and cannot do it as cheaply as the overseas companies, so they charge an arm and a leg for their Dynasty series welders. Don't think just because Miller charges too much for their inverter machines that they cost a ton more to produce. Like I said, I'll be illustrating this point very shortly.

 

run tghe extension cord.

im running my 180sd on a 80ft run of 10/3 cord and a 50 amp breaker i share with my dryer.

nothing ever thinks of heating up, and it runs like a dream, i see 214 volts at the plug where the welder is plugged into. the outlet my the breaker is 218 volts.

you could easily get away with 10 ga wire.

 

It should be fused for 50amps for #8

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccfab &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">run tghe extension cord.

im running my 180sd on a 80ft run of 10/3 cord and a 50 amp breaker i share with my dryer. </TD></TR></TABLE>

But thats cause you're a hardcore ************.

I'm hijacking my dryer outlet at my house this summer. Luckily for me its like 5 feet from my garage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But thats cause you're a hardcore ************.

I'm hijacking my dryer outlet at my house this summer. Luckily for me its like 5 feet from my garage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

amen brother, i pick my teeth with sharpened tungsten after i eat wild animals

 

well, people are now telling me that since the syncro 200 requires 80amp breaker and etc... thats too much power for a home use and itll blow the transformer/really strain the house power with everything else running and etc.... if you can add insight, its greatly appreciated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i found out the house fuse box is 120 feet away and i need 8g wire for it! 8gauge 3conductor wire will cost me 150+ for 120ft! plus an 80 amp double breaker and some corresponding outlet/plugs... guess i didnt read the fine print... o well, gotta let it sit as a paper weight again.

we assume we could just wire it into the Dryer, but that doesnt require enough power like the 200

any ideas on my wire dilemma?</TD></TR></TABLE>

be glad this is the only problem you have. I wish this was the only problem we had when we got our 250dx machine.

they sent us the wrong damn torch setup and we played hell getting the right torches for the machine. Had the machine hooked up for 3 months and kept having to go back to the supplier getting different torches/lines until we FINALLY got the right hookups...eesh.

oh and yeah guys, just FYI, apparently miller did a revision on the torch line hookups on the 250dx machines this past year and you cant use the older line setup...that and apparently even miller forgot they must have done this...dumbasses.

 

i bet hiring an electrician to do this, like you are suppose to do, is expensiveeee

 

I had to dig a 150' trench 2' deep by hand to run a new service out to my garage ... now i have like a 150 amp pannel out there it is my great grandmas house next door and we have people renting it out now the old wiring was hooked up to the same breaker as the neighbors fridge every time I used the chop saw it popped

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, people are now telling me that since the syncro 200 requires 80amp breaker and etc... thats too much power for a home use and itll blow the transformer/really strain the house power with everything else running and etc.... if you can add insight, its greatly appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why do you need a 80A outlet? The manual for your welder says it draws 57amps at 240V if you're welding at 200A. Use a 60A breaker and some #4 wire. Use a metal conduit and run the wire next to a wall or something so you don't have to dig a trench or crawl in the attic. I'll post pictures of how I did mine when I get home. It's not 150ft though. LOL

Go to this link: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm. It tells you what gauge wire you need for how many amps of power transmission. It has a voltage drop calculator and everything.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by autosport7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it is my great grandmas house next door and we have people renting it out now the old wiring was hooked up to the same breaker as the neighbors fridge every time I used the chop saw it popped</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL. That's funny.

 

the miller book says to use an 80amp breaker..

 

TA185
I had a friend hook it up for me. It just happens he's a certified electrician. That reminds me, I'm out of gas for mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o360j_mil.pdf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Input Voltage 208-230
Input Amperes At Rated Output 54
Max Recommended Standard Fuse or circuit breaker Rating In Amperes 1
Time-Delay 2 60
Normal Operating 3 80
Min Input Conductor Size In AWG 4 8
Max Recommended Input Conductor Length In Feet (Meters) 147 (45)
Min Grounding Conductor Size In AWG 4 8

Reference: 1999 National Electrical Code (NEC)
1 Choose a circuit breaker with time current curves comparable to a time-delay fuse.
2 “Time-Delay” fuses are UL class “RK5” .
3 “Normal Operating” (general purpose - no intentional delay) fuses are UL class “K5” (up to and including 60 amp), and UL class “H” ( 65 amp and
above).
4 Conductor data in this section specifies conductor size (excluding flexible cord or cable) between the panelboard and the equipment per NEC Table
310.16. If a flexible cord or cable is used, minimum conductor size may increase. See NEC Table 400.5(A) for flexible cord and cable requirements.
 Failure to follow these fuse and circuit breaker recommendations could create an electric shock or fire hazard.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the miller book says to use an 80amp breaker..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you sure? Why would one use a 80A breaker for a welder that uses 57A?

 

as you see above, 57 amp draw but says 80amp!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Motorhead_AZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you sure? Why would one use a 80A breaker for a welder that uses 57A? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont think your suposed to load a breaker more then 80% of its popping amperage..

im not 100% sure.. anyone clear this up?

 

i overload mine, especially the poor 15a breaker my chopsaw is hooked to.

i pop it 3 times a day....