*Tried searching other sites, no luck*

Read through the North Texas write up on 5th gen suspension install. Problem is I have an SH, which requires the removal of the balljpoint.

I can't get the balljoint loose. I have a tool for it (Pickman Puller/Balljoint Seperator) but it still won't budge. I really don't want to break it.

Anyone have any tricks/tips to help me out? Advice is great too!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HooberSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*Tried searching other sites, no luck*

Read through the North Texas write up on 5th gen suspension install. Problem is I have an SH, which requires the removal of the balljpoint.

I can't get the balljoint loose. I have a tool for it (Pickman Puller/Balljoint Seperator) but it still won't budge. I really don't want to break it.

Anyone have any tricks/tips to help me out? Advice is great too!</TD></TR></TABLE>

The SH requires that you separate the lower arm from the balljoint in the front and rear instead of just the rear- that's the only difference from the base model Prelude. sounds like you're doing everything right . . . it really should pop out. If you remembered to turn the castle nut upside down and rethread it a few turns to protect all the threads (like the NTPOG write-up says), don't be afraid to crank it down

Also, lubricate the hell out of it with PB Blaster. Heat could be risky with the rubber boot over the joint.

Other thoughts: I've found that the basic tool available from Autozone for loan is a little too big and that its better to just buy the smaller Pitman arm puller for $10. Does the tool you have fit over the arm well? Does the bolt match up well with the joint? If the tool is not able to apply force efficiently, the joint is going to feel like its welded to the lower arm.

 

yeah what he said ^^ if you have that nut flipped in there you aren't going to hurt anything by really cranking on it. PB blaster is my best friend

 

hit the joint with a hammer a few times. get it loose.

 

i have an sh.. didnt remove any balljoint to install suspension..

 

You can also remove the upper A arm, if the ball joint won't separate.

 

I got this badmofo from napa
works every time

 

Nice picture. lol

Mine looks similar. Got it from Jegs, 15$, "Pitman Arm Puller". I'll grab some PB Blaster too.

Thanks for all the advice. I'll post up my results later on!

 

- put the castle nut on so it covers the threads but is still loose.
- Utilize a floor jack to lift the hub so that the hub is on a level plane to the car; as if the tire were on and it were on the ground.
- Using a hammer, smack the **** out of the arm right above the nut.
- log back onto H-T and thank shakes for not making you waste money on a Pittman arm puller.

Honestly, the Pittman has its place, but I have yet to find a situation where it works better then the aforementioned.

 

I think it's just easier to remove the whole upper control arm, the balljoint will come with it. You just need to unbolt the bolt from the balljoint and take the coder (sp?) pin and and your set. This way you have no chance to screw up the boot on the balljoint.

 

Having great luck with the balljoint removal. Working on the rears now, but a problem with one of the fronts (Passenger Side)

NTPOG Write Up said to remove this bolt, but I can't get it out ??? Nothing got in the way this bad before.

 

I took mine out with only 27k on the car and it was still a bitch.

Keep hitting it with PB Blaster. Its been a year since I've done suspension and I can't remember exactly, but can you get at that bolt from the other side (the threaded end)? I think the fork is open on that side. If so, give it some pressure from that end while you try to unscrew it from the other. It'll eventually work itself loose.

 

I'll try that today. Tried pressure to the arm, but got nothing.