Best way to remove old IM gasket from manifold?
hey all, i would like to know what is the best way of removing an old intake manifold gasket that is 'baked' on to the metal of the manifold flange, and a little bit on the block. i have been struggling trying to pry it off bit by bit with an exacto knife... if anyone has any wonder tricks, sharing them would be great!
p.s. i have already searched.
p.s. i have already searched.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wire wheel on angle grinder</TD></TR></TABLE>
NO!!!!!!!!!
If you do this, then you are just ASKING to destroy the sealing surfaces. Those surfaces are aluminum, and are VERY soft. With steel/cast iron surfaces, this is not a problem. But a wire wheel will EASILY remove the aluminum, as will a Scotch-Brite pad. The surfaces must be left UNSCRATCHED so as to get the best seal possible when the parts are reassembled.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmsiR20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gasket remover spray
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This is about the best you can hope for. Spray the remover on the surface and let the part sit for a while to give it time to soak in. Then scrape it off with a good, sharp, broad wood chisel. The wood chisel is the best tool to use, as it is rigid (unlike an Exacto knife or razor blade). A flexible blade can gouge the surface if it bends. Keep in mind also that it is likely that the gasket remover will not be able to remove everything at once. You will probably have to apply it several times and remove the gasket by the layer. The bottom line: it will be a slow and frustrating job. There is just no way around this. So just take your time and be patient.
NO!!!!!!!!!
If you do this, then you are just ASKING to destroy the sealing surfaces. Those surfaces are aluminum, and are VERY soft. With steel/cast iron surfaces, this is not a problem. But a wire wheel will EASILY remove the aluminum, as will a Scotch-Brite pad. The surfaces must be left UNSCRATCHED so as to get the best seal possible when the parts are reassembled.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmsiR20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gasket remover spray
</TD></TR></TABLE>This is about the best you can hope for. Spray the remover on the surface and let the part sit for a while to give it time to soak in. Then scrape it off with a good, sharp, broad wood chisel. The wood chisel is the best tool to use, as it is rigid (unlike an Exacto knife or razor blade). A flexible blade can gouge the surface if it bends. Keep in mind also that it is likely that the gasket remover will not be able to remove everything at once. You will probably have to apply it several times and remove the gasket by the layer. The bottom line: it will be a slow and frustrating job. There is just no way around this. So just take your time and be patient.
I usually take a razor blade and scrape it flat on the surface. Then i take this deal i bought from 3M that is round and has rubber fingers on it that are like fine grit sandpaper that remove all that i couldn't get off, it attaches to a drill/die grinder. This is how i clean head surfaces and other things like it. I will try to get a pic of it or what it is called.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmsiR20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">copper spray works well for sealing also
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Copper spray (or ANY kind of adhesive) is just asking for more trouble should you ever need to take apart the joint in the future.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Copper spray (or ANY kind of adhesive) is just asking for more trouble should you ever need to take apart the joint in the future.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan Ruddock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, it is rare for a new mani gasket to leak and better chance to stick with copper spray. Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't say it would make the gasket leak. I said it would make future removal go from difficult to hellish.
I didn't say it would make the gasket leak. I said it would make future removal go from difficult to hellish.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didn't say it would make the gasket leak. I said it would make future removal go from difficult to hellish.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea I agree. While that copper gasket stuff does do a good job, its gets everywhere when applying and makes taking things back off a shitty job. Especially if you want to have a clean surface when you put it back on.
I didn't say it would make the gasket leak. I said it would make future removal go from difficult to hellish.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea I agree. While that copper gasket stuff does do a good job, its gets everywhere when applying and makes taking things back off a shitty job. Especially if you want to have a clean surface when you put it back on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didn't say it would make the gasket leak. I said it would make future removal go from difficult to hellish.</TD></TR></TABLE> Agreed, I was reponding to the copper spray guy's post. Dam internet. Dan
I didn't say it would make the gasket leak. I said it would make future removal go from difficult to hellish.</TD></TR></TABLE> Agreed, I was reponding to the copper spray guy's post. Dam internet. Dan
try some solvents, like acetone or thinner. Jasco also makes a strong adhesive remover. Just don't inhale that stuff or get it on your skin.
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