H22a4 Crank H23A1 Block.....
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From: Des Moines, iowa, US
i remember someone saying the mains had to be milled down for it to work, so could someone plz tell me how? what exaclty has to be done for this to work?
i know it has to go from 55MM to 50MM, but thats it.
i know it has to go from 55MM to 50MM, but thats it.
the block has to be line bored/honed to 55mm for it to work. After that it would need to be notched for the bearings and the thrust washer seats would prolly need to be enlarged as well. You could grind the crank down instead but that kind of defeats the purpose.
Personally I wouldnt bother, I doubt anyone in Des Moines could even do it and if they could then it'll prolly cost more than its worth. I guess i dont buy in to the whole 55mm crank being stronger but thats just me as most people on here think it is.
Personally I wouldnt bother, I doubt anyone in Des Moines could even do it and if they could then it'll prolly cost more than its worth. I guess i dont buy in to the whole 55mm crank being stronger but thats just me as most people on here think it is.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IAluder95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually Harveys machine Shop is pretty damn good and also doesnt charge much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool I was thinkin about trying them out. I've already been screwed by Midstate Machine.
How come you want to go with the h22 crank instead of the h23?
Cool I was thinkin about trying them out. I've already been screwed by Midstate Machine.
How come you want to go with the h22 crank instead of the h23?
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: Des Moines, iowa, US
this is waht i have been told so far....
I haven't seen a write-up about it. I remember seeing a debate on H-T that concluded with people deciding that most compentent shops can do it. Having an A4 girdle makes it easier since just the block's mains need to be machined to match the girdle. It it ends up being too difficult or pricy just exchange the A4 crank for an A1 crank.
so line bore the block to match the girdle and the a4 crank should work?
Bore it so the block & girdle match, then find the right bearing size that will work with the bore & crank. It's that easy. Definitely have a compentent shop do it.
does this seem right? anything else? what bearing should work?
Modified by IAluder95 at 4:15 AM 3/31/2006
I haven't seen a write-up about it. I remember seeing a debate on H-T that concluded with people deciding that most compentent shops can do it. Having an A4 girdle makes it easier since just the block's mains need to be machined to match the girdle. It it ends up being too difficult or pricy just exchange the A4 crank for an A1 crank.
so line bore the block to match the girdle and the a4 crank should work?
Bore it so the block & girdle match, then find the right bearing size that will work with the bore & crank. It's that easy. Definitely have a compentent shop do it.
does this seem right? anything else? what bearing should work?
Modified by IAluder95 at 4:15 AM 3/31/2006
for bearings you'd just use the h22a4 bearings. Find out from honda what the bore dimension is on the h22a4 block and have bored and honed to that.
I am a machinist myself and tell you that it would probably be easier to use the h22a1 main caps and bore them at the same time. (its difficult to accurately bore half a hole) Just remember that the crankshaft centerline must be held very closely to its original location or else the oil pump will not work correctly. (hope that makes sense.)
Notches will also have to be remachined for the bearings (the notches that keep the bearings from turning)
You may or may not have to remachine the thrust washer faces on the block (may still be able to use the h22a1 thrust washers.
I've been in several automotive machine shops that mostly work on V8's and alot of tolerances such as the crank centerline location and such arent as critical on them so just be careful where you have the work done and be sure they know what they need to.
I am a machinist myself and tell you that it would probably be easier to use the h22a1 main caps and bore them at the same time. (its difficult to accurately bore half a hole) Just remember that the crankshaft centerline must be held very closely to its original location or else the oil pump will not work correctly. (hope that makes sense.)
Notches will also have to be remachined for the bearings (the notches that keep the bearings from turning)
You may or may not have to remachine the thrust washer faces on the block (may still be able to use the h22a1 thrust washers.
I've been in several automotive machine shops that mostly work on V8's and alot of tolerances such as the crank centerline location and such arent as critical on them so just be careful where you have the work done and be sure they know what they need to.
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