which intake manifold is better for a 2000 si the skunk 2 manifold or the edelbrock or if there are anyother good ones please help! thanks

 

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i think n/a---- skunk 2
turbo ---edelbrok

 

I have a 99 si and i use a skunk 2 pro series and it works just fine. I would say use skunk 2 you will like it.

 

I have the edelbrock intake manifold for my 99 Si and its worked like a charm. I dont think there is a bad choice between the two.

 

aebs Smooth internals FTW
skunk2
blox
jg

 

I dont know if money is a real issue, but the skunk 2 I believe is a little cheaper than the edelbrock, but I still like my edelbrock and it wasn't that much more.

 

my aebs internals were MUCH MUCH smoother than my friends JG victor for a b16 no like a A LOT smoother

 

Im running a AEBS manifold on my b16 and runs good. Cheap and effective mod.

 

How high are you reving the motor?

 

Depending on your mods, just run the stock one. Chances are you're not gonna benefit at all from running a aftermarket one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depending on your mods, just run the stock one. Chances are you're not gonna benefit at all from running a aftermarket one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Rule of thumb, If you put in itr cams or above you need a IM other than that leave it alone. Dan

 

i rev to just before the 8K mark and its already got I/H/E and i was just tryin to get more power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depending on your mods, just run the stock one. Chances are you're not gonna benefit at all from running a aftermarket one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tripple that!!

If you want to spend money, port the one you already have, it will outperform every other manifold out there till at least 8000 rpm.

 

if i stay with the stock one or even if i get another one where do yall suggest i get next? im tryin to stay n/a for now but maybe later down the road boostin thanks

 

I picked up 6whp on my 99 Si by bolting on a King Motorsports bored stock throttle body and a Skunk2 manifold.

Car had AEM/JDM 4-1/Carsound 2.5"/SKunk2 exhaust/UR single crank pulley and matching alt. pulley/Skunk2 gears @ +1 -1 and a Field's controller and Kenji P28. Car dyno'd 152whp. Bolted on the new parts 156whp. Added a bit of fuel at 7K and 8K after the new run and dyno'd again to 158whp. Left happy with nice gain and back to a nice flat 12.8:1 AF. Not bad for a bolt-on B16A2.

I feel I got my money's worth.

Everything else in this thread is just hearsay at this point. Remember that.

YMMV, take every comment with a grain of salt. I've spent a good deal of money learning on my own. Get whatever you want. It's not going to hurt. I think it will help and help even more down the road if you go boosted or stay N/A. Good luck.

FWIW, I am using a Victor X on my B18C1 in my hatch now. Stock internals (for now), N/A. I am pleased.

 

You're talking about a motor with cam gears, a vtec controller, and tuned on a dyno. This guy has mild bolt ons and expects to make power by bolting on a bigger IM....chances are thats not gonna happen and that it WILL actually decrease in power. If you're looking to spend money and make more power but plan on boosting later, I would look into buying H-data S200 or maybe some type r cams. R cams are a very decent upgrade from the factory B16 cams and they also work awesome with boosted motors. With the H-data, you're gonna need engine management anyways and you could still squeeze a bit more power out of that B16 with the way it sits now, your decision.

 

Why yes. Yes I am. I had mild bolt-on's too. In fact the same ones. I picked up 4whp by just bolting it on. The fields controller was just added to adjust VTEC. The settings were all 0 except I richened a little at 7 & 8. The Kenji P28 was just that good. No professional dyno tuning.

On a side note, I added Hondata S100 later on and had it professionally tuned to 162whp. With that set-up. After the S2S1's, 171whp.

To the OG poster, like I said before do whatever you want. This was my experience. It can all vary depending on dyno, state, car, blah etc.... As of right now, everything else is hearsay. I just happen to like finding out for myself. Sometimes it works in my favor, sometimes it doesn't. My cheapo ebay 3" short ram with some old dirty Ractive filter made more peak power and under the curve then a shiny new AEM 2.5" short ram w/ brand new filter on it. I kind of figured "chances are" that it would, but you never know till you find out right?

 

B16 MANIFOLD...your not gonna make more average hp up to 9000 rpms with any other manifold. Even with Toda B cams, the b16 manifold is the best choice. No reason to go with a bigger cam than that.

an ITR manifold or some aftermarket manifold will only make you slower.

i don't know why ppl lie to themselves. LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JerseySiPOS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B16 MANIFOLD...your not gonna make more average hp up to 9000 rpms with any other manifold. Even with Toda B cams, the b16 manifold is the best choice. No reason to go with a bigger cam than that.

an ITR manifold or some aftermarket manifold will only make you slower.

i don't know why ppl lie to themselves. LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is a THEORY do you have PROOF,and dont give me the CRAP from the Honda Horsepower Book it has more errors than I can count.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1259496
Black=B16, Red=ITR.

 

Thank You, this does show proof. p30 wins(with a stock throttle body from 7k-8.2k The bigger manifolds are not ment to be used with a smaller throttle body

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crixzc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a THEORY do you have PROOF,and dont give me the CRAP from the Honda Horsepower Book it has more errors than I can count.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, and what are you basing your opinion on? a car dyno?? LOL

do you have proof that a bigger manifold will run faster at the track? if your looking for peak numbers, then go and put shorter runners and a bigger plenum on a 1.6.

i revved the **** out of my b16 past 9000+ rpms with a 65mm TB, tried an aebs manifold, and itr manifold, and street tuned and dyno tuned. made 7 extra hp and 2 ft/lbs less TQ on the dyno compared to a street tune. that 7 hp doesn't do dick, just looks good on paper.

take the percentages of your gear ratios, and find the rpm drops after each shift. 7000-8200 rpms is your powerband, so why kill anything in that range, just to make more peak power and needing to rev higher??

7 hp more at 8500+ is not gonna do dick fo you compared to even a 1-2 lbs gain from 6000-7500 rpms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crixzc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a THEORY </TD></TR></TABLE>

btw, how do you think a combustion engine was designed..?? umm, theory?

better that than the "bigger is better" mentality.