Do you know if those rates are just too much for the yellow ?

Im running with some Omni sport full coilover with 675lbs at the rear and 475lbs at the front and I think that my front shocks are already blown. The rebound is almost gone...

Anyway I just want something reliable with softer rates.

Do you think that its too much ? I have a 300whp car so I want to run stiffer at the rear to help traction and I also like the feeling of the car like that

Thanks for the help.

OOh and do you know a good place where I could find the Koni/GC combo for a good price.

Mat

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you know if those rates are just too much for the yellow ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shouldn't be. That's the setup I run.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Shouldn't be. That's the setup I run.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

how it run ? Do you drive your car on the street too ?

My Omni are really blown after a summer... I know that I cant go wrong with Koni.

If you could give me some feedback I would appreciate !

Oh and I run an adjustable 24mm rear swaybar from Progress.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how it run ? Do you drive your car on the street too ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It did okay at the track, not really optimal (most of my competition is running in the 7 - 900 range); but I have to drive it on the streets. It was pretty unbearable for where I drive, I put my old springs back on for winter.

As far as the performance goes, it's a nearly unbeatable setup unless you're spending 3x the money.

 

sweet thanks a lot !

I think that its a real sporty setup for the street and a good compromise for the track.

Can you see a good difference when you adjust the dampening ?

 

Go to the shock dyno sticky at the top of this forum. It will show how the koni is better than the other makes. I dont have experience with the yellows yet but from what most people say on here, they are the one to go with and will handle around 600 spring rate at the most.

 

I asked crxlee this a while ago,
i don't remember the exact numbers he gave me,
but the bottom line was there is no EXACTLY ammount of springrate that they can't handle.

but if memory serves correct I think he said around 450-550 was the around the cutoff range to be safe...

though ppl definetely use em up into the 600's or more, but you probably won't be damping the springs all that well if you're getting up there.

This is about ots damping of course.

 

so from what I saw and read if I stay at those rates it should be really good for what I need.

Thanks for your post and keep them coming !

 

I ran 550 lb.in all around for over a year. On the street. On used and abused 2nd hand Yellow's. They're still good, although I'm running 225 lb/in rears for the time being because I started to sh%t blood.

 

For the popular GC/Koni set-up the 400f/500r rates are quite popular. If/when I swap out my Teins for these that's the rates I'll use as well.

 

I now have Koni/GC setup with 380lb front, and 430lb rears. It works out well, but at your power level you may want a little bit stiffer rate.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by opeth13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran 550 lb.in all around for over a year. On the street. On used and abused 2nd hand Yellow's. They're still good, although I'm running 225 lb/in rears for the time being because I started to sh%t blood.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahahahhahahahahahahahahhahahhahahahhahahhahahhaha

classic !

I am running 550 f and 650 r.

 

My setup currently is 350 front 450 rear and tis quite nice.

But, here is my question. Why do you guys run such massive amounts of rates on hondas?? Street driven?? Wouldnt it be a better idea to run a quality rear swaybar/tie bar combo to aid in rotational behaviour?? And if your looking for rotation, do you really need all that rate and behavour on the street?? I cam understand if your a regular HPDE and trackday/autox junkie, but, for a daily driven street ride, is it really that necessary??

Just a question, really.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Purple-skunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wouldnt it be a better idea to run a quality rear swaybar/tie bar combo to aid in rotational behaviour?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

A sway bar really should be used for tuning, not correcting handling problems from running too low / wrong springrates.

I ask myself the same question as you all the time. If my car was street driven only, I would be running a good spring / shock combo (which I do run in the winter). Hell, I'd probably get the Koni Yellows and run stock springs on the lower perch for a bit of drop.

 

well I may choose some softer spring but with the power I have I cant go wrong with stiffer spring at the rear. Usually for the street I wouldnt go with a lot of difference between the front and the rear... maximum 200lbs of difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

A sway bar really should be used for tuning, not correcting handling problems from running too low / wrong springrates.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not what I meant. Not using sway bars to fine tune a car. I am looking at sway bars from a purely rotational standpoint and handling AID, not handling correction. I know a few honda boys which run around 700 or less rates in the rear of thier STRICTLY track driven car. Now, my question still remains, do you really need such massive spring rates for a daily grind?? Especially with running OTS shocks?? Is it really necessary is my question.

As far as I go, my car is not a daily and frankly, I dont think I would go with a higher rate for a daily. I would prefer to run varius swaybar/tie bar combo, a proper damper and maybe, if effective for our suspension type cars atleast, under chassis and LCA bar. Just seems to make more sense to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Purple-skunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not what I meant. Not using sway bars to fine tune a car. I am looking at sway bars from a purely rotational standpoint and handling AID, not handling correction. I know a few honda boys which run around 700 or less rates in the rear of thier STRICTLY track driven car. Now, my question still remains, do you really need such massive spring rates for a daily grind?? Especially with running OTS shocks?? Is it really necessary is my question. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It is perfectly acceptable on a street car where a livable daily ride wanted to run less spring rate and a bit more sway bar, that is half of the old "less spring/more sway bar vs. more spring/less sway bar" equation. The best answer especially for the street or a car that is going to have some level of compromise from handling only is not to go overboard with either. Because as a kid I was taught from the more spring/less sway bar school, I tend not to want to run a lot of bar but certainly I beleive that a lot of people run needlessly aggressive spring rates on the street but there is a fair amount of personal taste involved.

My daily driver street '89 CRX Si has 400f/325r, stock Si front sway bar, Neuspeed non-adjustable rear bar and Koni Sports set 1/2 turn from soft. I had the car on track at Putnam Park this weekend for about 75 muiles and only changed the tires and the shock settings.
My race only SCCA F Production '88 CRX Si has 600f/750r, no front bar and an ST adjustable rear bar, and Koni RACE shocks while the Koni 2812s are off for awhile being redesigned.

Cars are basically the same, uses are different, and spring and sway bar combo are tuned to the uses of the cars.

 

Quick question Lee, with that amount of rate in the front with no bar, how is the feeling of the front end?? I mean, auto-x and race track require differing animals in suspension tuning and the use of a sway bar for quick slalom switch back and feel would be different from fast sweepers and the such of a race track when you want a settle front end, correct??

I also agree with personal preference and personal bearability. But, is there a cutoff as when too much is just not necessary?? Do you really need 600+ springs on any end of a street car??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Purple-skunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quick question Lee, with that amount of rate in the front with no bar, how is the feeling of the front end??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great on open track plus it won a divisional series autocross beating the currrent women's EP national champion and the guy who finished 8th at Nationals in the same car. With that much front spring rate, I felt like I didn't want any more roll resistence, especially risking lifting an inside front drive wheel. This cas has 9.0x15 Hoosier slicks so it has a lot of rubber and grip potential.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Purple-skunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also agree with personal preference and personal bearability. But, is there a cutoff as when too much is just not necessary?? Do you really need 600+ springs on any end of a street car??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Again, especially when used on the street when personal preference and usage rates higher importance than seconds clicking on a stopwatch, I think it is a metter of preference. As with anything, as you do begin pushing the extremes then it does appeal to fewer and fewer people and then it is those who are wiling to make greater compromises. Prior to a track event, I have driven a CRX a short bit on the street with 600 lb rear spring and I think it is extremely, needlessly harsh and I don't see how people could want to live that way but again the CRX is the shortest, lightest car so it is effected quicker than most by extremely stif set-ups plus we are again in the realm of personal preference and what you are willing to sacrifice for a given effect.

There are people here who run street spring rates so high that I would think they would detach their retinas and make their ears bleed but who am I to say that they can't just wear glasses and keep cotton ***** handy?

 

It is always a pleasure to read anything that you write Lee. Thank-you for some valuable information.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Purple-skunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not what I meant. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I got where you were coming from; but lee did a much better job explaining than I did

 

Thanks CRX Lee for all this good information ! I will leave you a PM !

 

i ran 550lb spring on koni before and it did blow. just becareful. i ask koni long time ago and they said the max the yellow can handle is around 500lb. i think 550lb is still ok

 

like someone said farther up, its all about how much the shock can dampen. if you run a better shock (ex. koni spss3 valving), those "high" spring rates will be much more compfortable.

I was running 400f/600r on my prelude with OTS konis. I had to keep the shocks almost all the way up to keep them from oscillating, which made the ride VERY harsh. After i had the konis revalved, I was able to run them all the way DOWN without any oscillation and the ride was firm and comfortable at the same time. If anyone has ever ridden in a high performance sports car, you would notice that the suspension is stiff yet not harsh...thats pretty much what it felt like. I'll never run OTS konis again.

 

were can we get the spss3 and how much they worth ?

I may look into those....