2.0 LS/vtec or B20/vtec: both built to the bone.
i know i know. " who cares wat ppl say its your choice" well i just want to hear it from ppl who know more knowdlege and experiance. remember for DD and some AUTOX. and both street built.
ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmm ..
so a stock sleeved b20 block @84mm, vs a ls sleeved block at 84mm... both with the same internals? is that what your asking?or both sleeved @84mm with same parts?
so a stock sleeved b20 block @84mm, vs a ls sleeved block at 84mm... both with the same internals? is that what your asking?or both sleeved @84mm with same parts?
wow thats umm a long (mmmmmmmmmmm) haha.
to answer your question they are sleeved to 2.0 with probaly aftermarket internals/valvetrain, being the same parts. i also want to know whitch block is worth to sleeve to. with the b20 im going to sleeve it cause of the so called sleeves.
to answer your question they are sleeved to 2.0 with probaly aftermarket internals/valvetrain, being the same parts. i also want to know whitch block is worth to sleeve to. with the b20 im going to sleeve it cause of the so called sleeves.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanishR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If both are resleeved they would be pretty much the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And if both are going to be resleeved and the end result is the same, why not start with the cheaper B18A/B block?
And if both are going to be resleeved and the end result is the same, why not start with the cheaper B18A/B block?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And if both are going to be resleeved and the end result is the same, why not start with the cheaper B18A/B block?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought a b20 was cheaper?
And if both are going to be resleeved and the end result is the same, why not start with the cheaper B18A/B block?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought a b20 was cheaper?
If they are both going to be sleeved, some of the sleeving companies don't like to sleeve b20s because of the one piece sleeves, it leaves less block material after the sleeving operation. I would do the LS.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nothing like a 2.0 liter engine stamped as a 1.8 liter.
Sleeved 2.0 LSVTEC.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sleeved 2.0 LSVTEC.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
In all reality though there after your talking about sleeving both motors to the same bore the ls is definately the best choice for more than one reason and they are covered in this thread by several members.
The b20 is not the best choice.
The b20 is not the best choice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanishR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If both are resleeved they would be pretty much the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no .... if they are both sleeved they are the same thing cept for the b20X or b18X on the block code!!!
no .... if they are both sleeved they are the same thing cept for the b20X or b18X on the block code!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS for no other reason than you can get a block for 75 bucks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont think ive ever seen a LS block for $75. if so thats sick.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe he said sleeved LS or stock b20 sleeve. id go with the sleeved LS</TD></TR></TABLE>
acually i said both are not stock. both being aftermarket. sleeved and parts.
i dont think ive ever seen a LS block for $75. if so thats sick.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe he said sleeved LS or stock b20 sleeve. id go with the sleeved LS</TD></TR></TABLE>
acually i said both are not stock. both being aftermarket. sleeved and parts.
all these reasons are really great about the B18b being the best choice. so wats up with this now that i hear you could put a type R oil griddle on the B18b blocks.
Yes, I did such a thing, just on a B18A block.
If you decide to do that, have the machine shop check if the mains are still in round with the new ones, and if not, align hone.
If you decide to do that, have the machine shop check if the mains are still in round with the new ones, and if not, align hone.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM SLEEP3R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i thought a b20 was cheaper?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A stock B20 is cheaper than a resleeved LS. But a stock LS is cheaper than a stock B20. So if both are to be resleeved, the resleeved LS is FAR cheaper. The bottom line: a B20 is a better deal if you plan to run a mild, daily driven, non-VTEC setup. But if you plan to resleeve, an LS is by far the better deal.
i thought a b20 was cheaper?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A stock B20 is cheaper than a resleeved LS. But a stock LS is cheaper than a stock B20. So if both are to be resleeved, the resleeved LS is FAR cheaper. The bottom line: a B20 is a better deal if you plan to run a mild, daily driven, non-VTEC setup. But if you plan to resleeve, an LS is by far the better deal.
stock b20 sleeves are weak and it is not reccomended to rev it past 8500 rpms
plus seeing a b18 stamp on a block is more sleeper than seening a b20 stamp
plus seeing a b18 stamp on a block is more sleeper than seening a b20 stamp
There has been many, many threads covering such a thing, but basically...
You Need:
- ITR/GSR girdle
- ITR/GSR main caps 2,3,4
- ITR/GSR windage tray and oil pickup
- ITR/GSR oil pan
You Need:
- ITR/GSR girdle
- ITR/GSR main caps 2,3,4
- ITR/GSR windage tray and oil pickup
- ITR/GSR oil pan
b20 all the way my b20/vtec set up is a daily driver reved up yo 7,500 all most every day still runs strong I have not had a problem with it so b20 b20 b20 b20 so what im trying to say is b20
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by young O »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b20 all the way my b20/vtec set up is a daily driver reved up yo 7,500 all most every day still runs strong I have not had a problem with it so b20 b20 b20 b20 so what im trying to say is b20
</TD></TR></TABLE>
and a well built 2.0 LS/VTEC resleeved and built to the bone would eat you up, unless you resleeved, which the LS block is still the better choice.
egh..i don't like this thread.
</TD></TR></TABLE>and a well built 2.0 LS/VTEC resleeved and built to the bone would eat you up, unless you resleeved, which the LS block is still the better choice.
egh..i don't like this thread.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There has been many, many threads covering such a thing, but basically...
You Need:
- ITR/GSR girdle
- ITR/GSR main caps 2,3,4
- ITR/GSR windage tray and oil pickup
- ITR/GSR oil pan</TD></TR></TABLE>
so can you tell me about this. would it help the oil pick up since its coming from a Vtec motor. so you cant just mechine a LS crank into a B18c block.
You Need:
- ITR/GSR girdle
- ITR/GSR main caps 2,3,4
- ITR/GSR windage tray and oil pickup
- ITR/GSR oil pan</TD></TR></TABLE>
so can you tell me about this. would it help the oil pick up since its coming from a Vtec motor. so you cant just mechine a LS crank into a B18c block.



